Cooperstown or Bust

If you read our last post, you know that we spent the two days prior to our Cooperstown trip checking out New York City as a family. The rest of our vacation was dedicated to Upstate New York, and in particular, getting my dad to the promised land.

We visited the Baseball Hall of Fame once as a family when I was little, but according to my mom, my brothers and I were so ill-behaved that we had to leave early, and my dad never got over it. This trip was to make amends for all of our childish nonsense, and JR and I could not have been more excited.

We met my family at a VRBO in Laurens, NY, about 30 minutes south of Cooperstown. This are is actually pretty well visited, as there are several baseball stadiums in the area that host little league tournaments. That said, being 30 minutes away from everything we wanted to do became a bit arduous by the end.

On our first night there, we ate with the family, the kids swam and we got settled in. The second, my family got up early and we headed up to Howe’s Caverns. This is a deep cave system at a pretty well developed site that offers multiple tours. We took the 1.5 hour tour, which involves about a mile of walking.

It also includes boating along an underground river, which was really fun and walking through an area that can best be described as an underground slot canyon that required a lot of turning sideways and tight squeezes. The whole experiences verges on being a bit kitschy, but it was a lot of fun, and I love a good cave.

We made our way back to the house and chilled out for the rest of the day. The kids swam, my dad grilled burgers, and we got to bed at a decent hour.

The next day was the big day, the Hall of Fame. We left the rental at 8 am and made it Cooperstown before the doors opened. Similar to many recently visited attractions, timed tickets were required, but we still had to wait in line to get in. This time, it was totally worth it.

It was recommended that we start on the second floor and watch a 17 minute video, which was definitely the right thing to do. This video, chronicling the history of the game and the importance of the Hall of Fame, is not only extraordinarily well done, but it had most of the adult men in the room (myself included) on the verge of tears. It perfectly set the stage for what we were about to see.

The second floor is dedicated to the history of the game, with great sections dedicated to classic teams like the Yankees and Cardinals, different eras of the game, including pre- and post-integration, and the new directions that the game is going. My son tried to read every word, but I finally got him to move along and join the rest of us on the first floor.

The first floor is where you find the actual plaques, and these are just splendid. Walking through the Hall, finding all of history’s greatest ball players, all of the Cardinals’ greatest athletes, was really special. I think my dad spent about three hours looking through this area, to the point that we had to force him to stop for lunch.

Lunch, in Cooperstown, can be a bit of a challenge; everyone is leaving the Hall at the exact same time. Some of us ate at the Doubleday Cafe, but the wait was too long, so my family and I went across the street to a deli/grocery called Danny’s Mainstream Market. The sandwiches were great, the people were nice and there was no wait.

Afterwards, JR, my dad, my youngest brother, Dan and I went back to Hall while everyone else headed back to the house. We spent the last two hours on the third floor, which is dedicated to some of the great stadiums in baseball history, as well as all the record holders, club members, etc.

JR and I could probably have spent a whole second day at the Hall of Fame, but I think everyone else was baseball’d out, and my dad was happy, so mission accomplished. We ordered pizza that night and got ready for the next day.

The next day, Eileen wanted to go strawberry picking, so we drove to a farm called Middlefield Orchard. At this time of year, all they had available were strawberries, but during different seasons, you can pick all sorts of fruits. The strawberries were really flavorful, and the people were super-nice. We drove into Cooperstown and grabbed lunch at a place called Mel’s, which was good but quite deliberate, and headed back to the house.

The kids got in the pool again, which was a lifesaver, and my brothers, the wives and I headed out to a brewery called Red Shed, which featured a fun, albeit not-too-challenging trivia. We came in second place out of 15, and I think we only missed four questions total. Like I said, it wasn’t the hardest trivia night I have been too, but it was a fun way to experience a local brewery.

The next morning, we rented two pontoon boats and cruised around Otsego Lake. There isn’t all that much to do or see on this lake, but it was fun to get out on the water, swim and let the kids drive the boat for a little bit. We had lunch that day at the Ommegang Brewery, which seemed a bit overwhelmed by all the customers, but was still pretty good. Of the two, I preferred the beer/experience at Red Shed, but that was not a unanimous verdict.

The next morning, my family got up early and set out to find a hike called the Natty Bumppo Cave Trail. This trail was evidently a favorite of James Fenimore Cooper, who wrote The Last of the Mohicans, whose main character goes by Natty Bumppo. To be honest, this trail was not the greatest. The access point is in the middle, so you have to decide which direction to go.

We went north, towards the cave, and this part of the trek was pretty cool. That said, it is not maintained and very poorly marked, and while I am sure we made it to the cave, I am not sure we saw it from the angle intended.

On the way back, we came across a trail that looked like it might connect to the south branch, so we took it, not knowing that it would disappear a few minutes in. We were using the All Trails app, so were never in danger of being lost, but we basically bushwhacked our way to the other end of the trail before making it back to the car. I am glad we attempted this trail, and it has the potential to be really cool, but because it is unmaintained, poorly marked and at times, quite steep, it was a very arduous morning.

We met my family for lunch that day at local place called Brook’s BBQ. To be honest, this was a bit disappointing. The food was fine, but when you get local barbecue, you are hoping to be blown away, and this was not that.

That afternoon, we all played mini-golf at a place called Barnyard Swing, which was a nice family activity to cap off the week. The following day, we dropped JR off in Williamstown, MA, to go on a trip with a group called Overland, and the rest of us headed back to New York to fly out of Laguardia.

If you are planning to visit Cooperstown, I could not more highly recommend it. That said, I would suggest staying as close as possible and perhaps not for a week. If I was doing this again, I would have stayed close to the Hall for two nights, then spent the rest of the time in the Finger Lakes or Catskills. There are a lot of great things to do in the area, but most of them are too far from where we stayed. Regardless, this was a great trip, and it is always great to spend a week with the extended family.

A Day and a Half in the Big Apple

This year, we made plans to spend a week with my family in upstate New York, in the Cooperstown area. Since the house my mom booked wasn’t available until Monday, July 4th, we decided to head up early on Saturday and spend a 36 (or so) hours in the city that never sleeps.

Please keep in mind that since our time was quite brief, we tried to cram as much in as we could, so if this all sounds overly touristy, that is because it was. We landed in LaGuardia, which has just been remodeled but is still very poorly labeled, and took a rental car to our hotel, a DoubleTree in Chelsea.

We had actually hoped to make it Hamilton Grange that first afternoon, but it took us so long to get the rental car, mostly due to LGA not being labeled, that our time ran out. Our main activity for the day was to watch the Mets lose to the Rangers, and we did not want to be late.

Once we were settled in the hotel, we spent about half an hour trying to figure out the subway, and after going the wrong direction once, made our way back to Queens. Alyson and I watched a game at Shea Stadium during our honeymoon in 2006, and while I’ll grant that Shea was an iconic field, our seats didn’t offer views of about 40% of the field. The new Citi Field Stadium isn’t any more impressive than most of the new era ballparks, Atlanta, Milwaukee Colorado, but it is clean, has plenty of amenities and there isn’t a bad seat in the house.

The Mets lost, which always makes me happy, and the game featured half a dozen home runs, so it was a fun day. This is the 8th different home stadium in which I’ve seen a game, and the 7th for my son. We have unintentionally set ourselves down the path of trying to see a home game for all 30 teams, so I guess we are on our way.

We took the subway back into Manhattan and spent the next hour wandering around Times Square. The experience was very similar to when Alyson and I were there 15 years ago. Lots of people, lights of sights and sounds and smells, and not a place where I have interest in spending much time. The kids enjoyed it though, and it is certainly an experience worth having.

The next morning, we ate breakfast in the hotel and headed back to the underground and to mass at St. Patrick’s Cathedral. What a spectacular church, very reminiscent of the cathedral in DC. Not only is the church beautiful, but it has a dozen or so side chapels that are just as inspiring. If you like grand, classic church architecture, you should visit St. Patrick’s.

After church, we walked a few blocks to 30 Rock, where we took an elevator up the Top of the Rock to take in the panoramic views of the city. The observation decks offer amazing perspectives of Manhattan, and if you don’t live in a city with lots of over-large buildings, it is really a sight to behold.

That said, I do take issue with these types of tours. It is required that timed tickets are purchased in advance, but it has little to do with when one is actually allowed to enter. We arrived right at 9, when it opened, the time printed on our tickets, and still had to wait in a line that wrapped all the way around the block. The views from the top were totally worth it, but be prepared to wait.

We next took the subway up to Central Park, where we rented bikes for two hours and made our way around the entire park, both the lower and upper loops. This was such a fun ride and such a fun park but you should keep in mind that the north end of the park, in particular, has some very steep uphills that actually required us to hop off and walk at certain times.

All the toil was made worthwhile when arrived to find no line at the Levain Bakery, and had one of the largest, tastiest chocolate chip cookies that I have yet to experience. We returned the bikes, hopped back on public transportation and made our way towards Pier 83.

Why Pier 83 specifically, you ask? That is where we were to meet the boat that would take us on a scenic tour along the river. Prior to that, we grabbed lunch at a local deli. Keep in mind, a lot of the top rated deli’s in this area, Hell’s Kitchen, do not actually have any seating, so we stopped at this first place where we could sit and relax for a bit, at Cafe Aroma.

This was really more of a breakfast place than a deli, but they had several great sandwiches that we all enjoyed. From there, we walked down to the pier and boarded a boat for our tour with Circle Line Cruises.

Our initial intention with this was to take a boat to visit the Statue of Liberty. Unfortunately, at this point in time, a tourist can go up into the pedestal but not to the crown. Because of this, we decided to take a tour that passes by the Statue and Ellis Island, but also goes to other areas of New York.

This tour was great, very similar to one that we took in Chicago; it had snacks, drinks and was very informative. This kind of tour is a great way to see a lot of the city at once and learn a lot about its history.

At this point, we took a bus (our first of this trip) to a subway, which got us underwater all the way to Brooklyn. Why did we go to Brooklyn, you ask? We let me tell you. You may or may not be aware that one can actually walk across the Brooklyn bridge, and one of the entrances is on the Brooklyn side.

With a slight bit of down-playing the difficultly of the walk, the kids were convinced to climb the stairs and make the one-mile trek across the iconic span. The hike is about a mile, and the first half, unsurprisingly, is uphill. This might have been my favorite part of our New York trip. The bridge is packed with tourists and vendors and provides really cool views of the amazing city skyline.

The reason we went from the Brooklyn side was that the exit into Manhattan is very close to Ground Zero. Eileen had been asking a lot of questions about September 11th recently, so we thought this was a good time to visit. The area is very well-done and very inspiring. We only spent about an hour there, and didn’t get to go into the museum, as it was closed, but coming to New York and not seeing it didn’t feel quite right.

That night, we grabbed pizza at a nearby spot called Rosella’s. Similar to the deli’s in Hell’s Kitchen, it actually took us a bit of time to find a pizza place where we could sit and eat. They didn’t serve alcohol, which was a bummer, but the pizza was classic New York-style, exactly for what we were looking.

We made it back to the hotel and bedded down for the night, planning to squeeze in just a few more city hours before we headed upstate. The next morning, we skipped hotel breakfast and ate at a nearby shop called the Bagel Pub. I think this was my favorite meal eaten in New York. They have classic bagels with all sorts of toppings and fillings for all ages and taste profiles. I could have eaten every meal in the Bagel Pub, gotten something different each time, and been quite happy.

We jumped on a train again and headed uptown to a place called the Museum of Ice Cream. This was Eileen’s idea, and was actually a little different than what you might expect, based upon the name. There was a lot of ice cream, but there were also several activities and museum features that were fun and interesting.

There is a hallway that chronicles the history of ice cream, as well as New York’s longest indoor slide and a ball pit filled with ice cream sprinkles. These types of museums have started popping up in larger cities, places that are experiences more than museums themselves, like the Hopscotch Museum in San Antonio or the City Museum in St. Louis. These experiences are really not city-specific, but they are good ways to fill your time and keep the kids engaged.

The last stop we made before checking out heads north was a Katz Deli. This New York icon can actually be a little overwhelming (and a little expensive), but if you take your time and figure out what it is you want, it is totally worth the effort. The kids got burgers off the kids menu, which were nothing special, but the pastrami sandwich that Alyson and I split was enormous and delicious.

This trip was a bit of a whirlwind, and there are still things in the city that I would like to do, but I feel like we did as much as we could to maximize our time in the Big Apple. I do not think that New York is a place that I could ever live, but when it comes to visiting, it certainly has a lot to offer.