Author: T.Igoe

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New Mexico for Mardi Gras

Living in New Orleans, there are few things that we look forward to more than Mardi Gras, and in 2022, the anticipation was greater than ever. Since COVID shut everything down in 2021, 2022 was poised to deliver something special, and it did not disappoint.

For two weeks, the Igoes camped out on the parade route, catching beads, eating, drinking and spending much needed and much missed time with friends and family. For those of you who have never experienced it, Mardi Gras for locals is not what you see on TV, it is not what you see on Bourbon Street.

Certainly, that exists, but where we watch the parades, towards the beginning, things are very family-oriented, and it is a one of a kind time in this city. In addition to the parades and parties, it is also worth noting that schools in the New Orleans area have the Mardi Gras week off, something not common across the country. This makes Mardi Gras a great time to travel, and this year, we took advantage.

Since our initial RV trip in 2018, I have been jonesing to get back to the Southwest, and it just so happens that three of America’s great National Parks are within an hour (or so’s) drive of El Paso. My wife and I did the research, booked an RV on Outdoorsy, packed up the kids, jumped on an airplane and headed out West.

I will say, first impressions of the area differ slightly from places like California or Minnesota. Frankly, when you arrive in east Texas, things are kind of reminiscent of the movie Traffic. Lots of small, crowded structures, dust and not a lot of green stuff. That’s alright, though; what doesn’t float my boat is a wonderful home for others, and we didn’t come for El Paso, we came due to the proximity.

We picked up a 32 foot RV, loaded up on groceries and drove an hour+ east to Guadalupe Mountains National Park. On the list of most frequently visited National Parks, Guadalupe is towards the south end; even most Texans I know haven’t been there. That said, it is certainly worth the trip (which National Park isn’t?)

We arrived late and spent the night in the Pine Springs Campground. This campground is RV friendly, although it has no hook ups of any kind. Frankly, it is simply a parking lot with RV-sized spots, but this worked for our purposes. It is also a few feet from one of the most popular trailheads, so it was a good place to start.

I want to mention at this point that if you are a stargazer, Guadalupe is a great place to be. When we shut everything down, we couldn’t see a light for miles that didn’t come from the heavens. The elevation, the distance from ambient light and the clear skies made for an amazing light show.

When we awoke the next morning, we gathered our things a headed up the Devil’s Hall Trail. This is one of the more popular trails in the park, and is also deceivingly strenuous. The first mile or so is a gradual incline up into the mountains, until a sharp downhill leads you into a wash that is only wet during the brief rainy season. We then spent the next three quarters of a mile jumping, crawling and climbing from boulder to boulder until we reached the end.

There were several times along the way when we (specifically the kids) wanted to give up and turn back, as it seems to be just the same thing over and over, but when you actually reach the end of the trail, you’ll understand why you came. The wash comes to a halt in what can only be described as a natural stairwell that leads up the side of the mountain. The picture does it more justice than do my words, but I strongly suggest you stick this one out until.

When we finally made it back, we ate and asked a park ranger how he thought we should kill the afternoon. He was not super helpful, but suggested the Smith Springs Trail, which also goes by Manzanita Springs. It was only a 2.3 mile loop, so we decided to give it a go.

The first spring, Manzanita, is only about half a mile in, and is about as impressive as a new pair of socks. Certainly better than an old pair, but not really worth going out of your way to see. The next mile was rough; uphill, in the sun, with nothing more than relatively barren landscape.

Again, we thought it might be time to turn back until we started to hear that wonderful sound, the trickle of water. When we reached Smith Springs, it all became worthwhile. The apex of this loop is a beautiful, hidden, shaded spring that brought us back to life just in time. The water was so cool and clear that I legitimately considered drinking it. It is funny how one great moment can make 2.3 miles totally worth it, and make the walk back down fly by.

There was one other trail in the park that looked interesting, the McKittrick Canyon Trail, but it was longer than we could manage, and we had only allotted one day to Guadalupe. We packed up Tess (the RV) and head northwest for Carlsbad Caverns.

One of the reasons we chose this trip was the proximity of the three parks to each other. The Caverns are less than an hour drive from Guadalupe Mountains, and that night, we stayed in an RV park in Whites City, Whites City RV Park.

If you search up this campground, you won’t find a website, only a phone number and only 2.5 stars in reviews. I found this place perfectly acceptable. When we arrived, it turned out that I had made the reservations for the wrong day, but they shifted things around and got us two nights with full hook ups. The site has few amenities and is pretty bare bones, but those of you who have traveled by recreational vehicle before know there are worse things. We grilled cheese pizzas that night (Ash Wednesday for you Catholics out there), got another wonderful view of the stars and hit the hay.

We got up early on Thursday and made our way into the park. We got our second passport stamp of the trip and headed into the cave. We had to book a reservation at Carlsbad prior to arrival on recreation.gov, but it was not difficult to get. This cave is a really cool experience, and definitely different from a cave like Mammoth.

One can take an elevator down into the heart of the cave, but you miss out on the really cool experience of the long trek into the darkness. We decided to take the one mile hike down into the cave, and then do the additional 1.2 mile stroll through the Big Room. It is hard to really describe this cave, other than to say it is awesome.

Carlsbad has every type of cave feature you might want: stalagmites, stalactites, popcorn, ledges, bottomless pits and on and on and on. I love caves, so this was one of my favorite parts of the trip, but I am not so sure about the rest of the family. While everyone thought it was really impressive, the cave’s accessibility was significantly limited by COVID. Carlsbad normally offers a dozen or more different guided tours, but because of the virus, all that was available was the self-guided tour of the Big Room. For me, it was totally worth it, but I wouldn’t hesitate to go back again if anyone else was interested.

We did not have definite plans for the afternoon, but felt like we had exhausted what was available with half a day in Carlsbad. We had planned to spend another night in Whites City and visit Sitting Bull Falls the following day, but we decided to maximize our time and head into Lincoln National Forest.

The drive to Sitting Bull Falls is beautiful and desolate. It took over an hour to get there from Carlsbad, and for the majority of it, there was not another car in sight. When we arrived at the recreation area, I was shocked to find a pretty well developed site and several other visitors.

If you are in this area, Sitting Bull Falls is can’t-miss. It is a hidden oasis in an arid environment where you can hike, picnic and even swim. The hike to the top of the falls is strenuous, but only about a quarter of a mile, and I strongly recommend it. The top of the falls is amazing, and you can wade in and out of the pools and climb on the rocks that define this wonderful area.

At the bottom of the falls, there is a well-developed viewing area that leads to the base, where you can swim and explore all the way to fall itself. It was too cold for us to do more than wade, but even so, this was an unexpected and fantastic addition to our adventure.

Because we had just a bit of extra time, we decided to make the long drive to the northwest and visit the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. I have always been fascinated by cliff dwellings but never gotten to visit one before. It was about a five hour drive, and actually took us past our next destination, but we figured it was better to use the time, rather than hang out in an RV park.

Side note, the drive to Gila (pronounced Heela) took us through Cloudcroft, NM. I only mention this because it was one of the most unusual and beautiful parts of our trip. When we drove through Cloudcroft, it felt like we were entering Brigadoon; it felt like we’d arrived in a ski resort pulled from a Bing Crosby movie. Keep in mind this was March, there was snow on the ground everywhere. There were adorable shops, restaurants, a brewery. I wished that we had the time to stop and explore, but I got the impression that if we had, we would never leave. Who knew such a place existed in southwest New Mexico.

After we escaped the lure, we finished the long drive at a KOA just outside Silver City (birthplace of Billy the Kid). Whenever we RV, the kids are always thrilled when we can stay at a KOA. They usually have the best amenities, this one did not disappoint (hook ups, arcade, shop, showers). We woke early the next day and finished the treacherous drive up to Gila, and were thrilled with what we found.

These well-preserved dwellings date back to the 1200s and while only occupied for a short period of time, are really impressive. The hike up is beautiful, and the views from the outside are really inspiring. That said, and Alyson agreed, actually being inside the dwellings is just sort of ‘meh’. The coolest part is viewing the homes set into the side of a mountain from the outside, but when you are actually in them, it just feels like any other old hut. I am really happy we added this excursion though, an 800 year old mountain retreat is really something to behold.

Our turn around was quick and abrupt, and we headed back southwest towards White Sands National Park. Just outside of Alomogordo, NM, this is one of the countries newest National Parks, and it is legitimately like no place I have ever seen before. We spent that night in, you guessed it, a KOA and made our way to the park early the next day.

We stopped at the Visitors Center, got our passports stamped and bought two saucers and some wax. I suppose I should elaborate. One of the main activities in White Sands is dune sledding, and the facilities are more than happy to provide the supplies.

An interesting thing about this gypsum covered wonderland, the park is hundreds upon hundreds of acres, surrounded by a government missile testing site, but visitors have access to only about 0.4%. In that 0.4%, you’ll get to see a world unlike any other. It almost feels like you’ve stepped onto another planet, until your one year old steals your sled and zips down a dune when you’re not paying attention.

My eldest daughter was super excited about sledding, but when you first start, you need to be sure that your expectations are tempered. The first time down the hill is slow and plodding, but the more you go down, the more the sand gets packed and the faster you’ll get.

Sledding is the primary activity in this area, and beyond that, there is actually not a ton to do. There are several trails, but none of them are long, and evidently, multiple people get lost and actually die every year, as everything looks the same. We found White Sands to be a great place to sled, to picnic and just experience something few people ever see.

At this point, we decided that the kids needed a break from the outdoors, and took them to Rocket City. This is a combination bowling alley, laser tag, arcade, oh, and it has a bar. It was nice to give the kids a break, bowl a few frames (my high was 143) and let them play a few video games. This trip was a very outdoors-heavy trip, and giving them a break really added to all of our enjoyments.

Aside from the sledding, the one thing that you shouldn’t miss at White Sands is the sunset. Every night, visibility-allowing, the park puts on a sunset stroll where a ranger (or in this case, an intern) leads a group out into the dunes, discusses the park and watches the sun drop. I have seen a lot of sunsets in 40 years (believe it or not), I am not sure any can compare to this. All I can do is ask you to look at that picture up top, and tell me if I’m wrong.

We spent that night in the KOA and woke up with the baby the next morning. Before leaving the White Sands area, we had breakfast at a classic diner called the Waffle and Pancake Shoppe. Food wasn’t a major part of our itinerary this trip, but this restaurant was awesome. Very old-school, mom and pop, there was already a wait when we arrived at 8 am on a Sunday. The staff moves people in and out so well, whilst still providing really high quality food, that we were out by 9. It was by far the best meal we had all week.

From there, we drove back into El Paso and stopped at the Chamizal National Memorial. This site had little to do with our travel intentions, but it does have a spot in the passport books, and since we had time before our flight, we figured why not?

This site commemorates an agreement between the United States and Mexico over a disputed area along the border. It is kind of cool, and the grounds would make for a nice event venue, but frankly, of all the National Park Service sites we have visited, this one may have been the most ‘blah’.

We dropped off the RV, hopped on board a plane and headed back to New Orleans. It is nice to get away from the city after Mardi Gras, but it was far from a relaxing trip. This was the type of vacation that it feels like requires a follow up vacation. If you are big on National Parks, heading out to El Paso is a great option, and these three parks are ones best visited during the colder times of the year. While I cannot give you a lot of recommendations for El Paso itself, I definitely recommend visiting Guadalupe Mountains, Carlsbad Caverns and White Sands.

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RVing Through the Northwest

Since our initial RV trip through the Southwest in 2019, the Traveling Igoes have been itching to get back in a big rig and hit the open road. We had big plans for 2020, but a certain virus had even bigger ones.

When 2021 finally came along, and we all got vaccinated (at least those who could), we rebooted our travel plans. I had never been to Yosemite before, and no one in my immediate family had ever visited Oregon, so we decided this was the perfect opportunity.

The planning for a trip like this is pretty labor intensive, and by the end, we had about 70 pages worth of itinerary put together. After picking the dates, the next thing to do was pick the route. We decided to fly into San Francisco and pick up a recreation vehicle. From there, we would drive north along the coast through Redwood Forest, into Oregon and Crater Lake. We would then head back south through Lassen Volcanic National Park and Yosemite, and finish back in San Fran.

Beyond that, the trip would lie in the details. Once we figured out our dates (11 days in total) and our course, the next thing to do was to find the right rig. Two years ago, we found a great RV through Outdoorsy, so that’s where we started. We actually found the perfect fit for our family. A 24 foot truck with no slide outs, with unlimited mileage and generator use included. Unfortunately, about a month prior to leaving, this RV flooded, and our proprietor had to cancel.

Outdoorsy helped us find another option, which was a very similar 24′ Winnebago, the only difference being that this one was made in 1999. It had almost all 5-star reviews save one, that claimed it was old, dingy and worn down, and at this point, we had very few options. When we arrived, it seemed that all the reviews were accurate. Gertie (as we named her) was a reliable old bird with countless dings, scratches and stains. That said, she ran well, stopped alright and got us from point A to point B on time.

We landed in San Francisco, picked up Gertie and headed north. Our first stop was at the Full House house in the heart of the city. My daughter, a huge fan of Fuller House, was very excited. I found it rather pointless, but the main reason we take these trips is to bring joy to our kids, so if it makes Eileen happy, I can spare 30 minutes.

From there, we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and stopped on the north side for a picture. It was really impressive, shrouded in fog, but this point was also one of my biggest regrets. On the south side of the bridge is Fort Point, a spot where the kids can get their passport books stamped. We missed the turnoff, and in Gertie, it was too hard to make our way back. It was still really cool, but I not getting that stamp will eat at me.

We loaded back up and headed another hour north to Muir Woods. What a great introduction to what we were going to see. The approach was a big white knuckle-y in an RV, but once we got there, we realized how worthwhile is Muir Woods. Protected since 1908, this primeval forest is both refuge and laboratory, filled with old growth Redwoods reaching for the sun. In order to access this site at the time, parking reservations are needed, so definitely look into getting these well in advance. We did not spend a ton of time in Muir, but it was a great appetizer for a trip filled with some of the most amazing trees in the world.

Our next stop was at the Olema Campground, an RV park with easy access to Point Reyes National Seashore. This site had electrical hook ups, but nothing else, but for this trip, that was something. For those of you unfamiliar, RVs can hook up to electricity, water and a dumping station. While this is not vital, having hook ups does make life quite a bit easier.

In the morning, we met up with our guide, Frank, in Point Reyes, for what he refers to as a Point Reyes Safari. We followed him throughout the park, riding behind him in our truck, visiting various different parts of the site. We first visited the Cypress Tree Tunnel, which is really impressive, and something similar to what you see at old southern plantations.

From there, he took us to the Point Reyes Lighthouse. It was very unexpected how cool this would be. It is a trek to get there, and I doubt we would have done it if not for Frank, but if you go, this is the must-see part of Point Reyes. This lighthouse is so cool and so remote, it feels like something out of a fantasy novel.

The only thing I will say is that it was not super clear what we had gotten ourselves into with the safari. We thought it was going to be something like an off-road, UTV tour. Instead, we were following a Subaru around in our RV. It ended up being great; we saw plenty of elk and coyotes, but it is not exactly what I thought it was going to be.

Once we finished at Point Reyes, being sure to get our books stamped, we drove to the south end of Redwood National Park and spent the night at Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. This was by far the most amazing site in which we stayed. It was right on the beach, and the seascape looked like something out of a painting. The site recommended no vehicles larger than 24 feet, which worked for us, but I think they were being generous. The approach was extremely treacherous, there were no hook-ups, and we felt super out of place around all the small tents.

We made it through the night though, and headed for Fern Canyon. This hidden gem is wild to the point that parts of Jurassic Park were actually filmed here. The canyon is covered wall to wall with greenery, and can really only be called jaw-dropping. It is not simple to access, but it is certainly worth the effort. If you want to experience something that few have, something very different than anything I have ever seen, Fern Canyon is a great place to start.

We made our way out of the canyon and stopped at another one of the can’t-miss spots in Redwoods, Trillium Falls Trail. This is approximately a 2.5 mile loop which leads to a cool, but small waterfall. You should not let the size of the fall deter you, however, as this trail is beautiful start to finish. The one thing I would suggest is to start in the direction that has you finishing with the falls instead of starting with it. Saving the payoff for the end makes this trail all the more worthwhile.

We stopped at the Elk Creek Visitor Center to get our books stamped and pick up the Junior Ranger packets. This packet was straight forward, and the kids were able to finish it that day. Our next stop up the road was at the Trees of Mystery. The trip through the vast Redwood National and State Park area is littered with roadside attractions, and Trees of Mystery really caught our attention.

It is definitely a little kitschy and touristy, in sort of a Gravity Falls type of way, but my son really loved it. There are several aerial walkways that take you up into the trees, a bunch of really cool carvings out of the Paul Bunyan legend and a sky-tram that takes you several hundred feet up into the mountains. There is also a perfectly serviceable restaurant attached, which for those eating out of an RV fridge, really hit the spot. There was nothing overwhelmingly great about the Trees of Mystery, but my 9 year-old son really like it, and it was a welcome break from all the hiking (and driving).

We got back on the road and stopped at the north end of the park, at the Hiouchi Visitor Center, where the kids picked up their first of four National Park Junior Ranger badges. We spent that night in a KOA, with full hook ups, which was a nice break (and the only one). We have really enjoyed the KOAs in our two RV trips. The sites are not usually as unique or memorable, but it is nice to have a full set amenities. It makes roughing it in a camper not quite so rough.

The following morning, we met up with the guide from Redwood Rides, who took Eileen, JR and I kayaking on the Smith River. Clara was too young to go, so Alyson took her for a hike while we hit the water. JR and I were in a tandem kayak, which worked out well for him, whilst Eileen was on her own.

As this was the dry season, the river was not too high or too fast, but it was very scenic and a lot of fun. At one point, we stopped at a rock that Eileen jumped off of, and at another, we took a hike through Stout Grove, which was pretty impressive. I have been on more exciting rivers before, but had we been there in April or May, I think the water would have been a lot faster.

At this point, it was time to cross the border and mark off another state for our entire family. That afternoon, we crossed into Oregon for the first time for all of us. Our first stop was at a little visited Parks site, the Oregon Caves National Monument. I am a huge fan of caves, so I was really looking forward to this visit, but unfortunately, it was an extraordinary disappointment.

The caves only recently reopened and require guided, ticketed tours. At this stage, the tickets are only available day of, and cannot be purchased in advance. When we arrived, all of the tickets for the day were sold out. I understand the need for social distancing, but as we walked a decent hike in the park, it became clear that total, there were no more than 10 people in the entire area. Further, only offering tickets first come, first serve makes it nearly impossible for anyone from out of the area to visit. I wish I could say we will go back someday, but it does not seem very likely. Out of everything we did this trip, this was by far our biggest letdown.

We made our way from the Caves of Disappointment northwest towards Crater Lake, and stayed the night in Mazama Campground. This camp was very rustic, but it provided great access to the park. The next morning, we loaded up the RV and headed into Crater Lake.

Crater Lake is arguably the most beautiful place that I have ever been. That said, there is not actually all that much to do there. We drove the rim, which is about 30 miles around, and offers multiple amazing viewpoints. We stopped at one of the more frequently used trails, the Cleetwood Cove, which leads from the rim down to the lake itself.

During regular times, this is where you can pick up the boat that tours that lake and takes passengers all the way to Wizard Island. Due to COVID, it is not running this year; had it been, this certainly would have added something extra to our visit. The Cleetwood trail is beautiful, but the way back up, in particular, is extremely strenuous.

We followed this by completing our Junior Ranger packets and getting badges for the kids. We then traveled about an hour south to Crater Lake Ziplines. Eileen and JR love ziplining, so we always try to work this into our trips, if it’s possible.

Crater Lake Ziplines actually requires that you break yourself, so JR was not old enough to do the big zips. That said, they offer a smaller course for kids under 10 and under 70 pounds. He was a little disappointed, but once he got over himself, he seemed to have a great time. If you ask Eileen, she will tell you this was her favorite part of our entire vacation.

We spent another night in Mazama, then headed south back to California. Our next two stops were definitely my two favorite. Our first was at Lava Beds National Monument. This was a late addition to our itinerary, so we were not really sure what to expect. Frankly, it blew me away.

I think everyone else enjoyed it, but I loved this site. I could have spent an entire week exploring this vast network of caves. Volcanic eruptions in this area from past millennia have created a rugged, unique landscape with over 800 caves. We only had time to explore two, the Mudpot and Valentine caves. These caves, former lava tubes, are different than caves like Mammoth or Oregon, and are each unique. The park rates them based upon difficulty, so the two we did were more kid friendly. Like I said, I love a good cave, and could have spent a week at Lava Beds, but we had to move on.

The next stop on our whirlwind tour was Lassen Volcanic National Park. Compared to the other three National Parks we hit, I knew very little about Lassen, but have to say that of the four big parks, I enjoyed it the most. When we arrived, we went straight from the Visitor Center to the Kings Creek Trail. This is a hike that goes on for miles, but about 1.5 miles in, you realize why you came. The trail follows Kings Creek as it meanders across the park, and a great stopping point is the Kings Creek Falls, a stunning cataract that you can explore almost to the very precipice. On the way back, I strongly encourage you to take the left hand, one-way trail. While it is a tough climb up a few hundred stairs, it is one of the best parts of the hike.

We spent that night in the Manzanita Lake Campground, another rustic RV park, but it gave us great, quick access to Lassen. The following morning, we headed back into the park, turned in our packets for Junior Ranger badges, and went straight to the Bumpass Hell trailhead. My son was very excited about this, as, according to him, the name contains two swear words.

This trail is about a three-mile round trip, and while the hike is not as stunning as Kings Creek, the payoff is equally as impressive. Bumpass Hell is a live area of geothermal activity. It reminded me a lot of Yellowstone; there are boiling mudpots, acidic pools and sulfur fumes everywhere. It is a really stunning site, and it makes one wonder how long it must have taken Mr. Bumpass to find it so many years ago. We all loved our visit, and if I had to pick one National Park to go to, it would be Lassen.

We left Bumpass and Lassen, and headed into Chico, where we met my uncle for lunch at Nash’s. It was great to see family, and on a trip like this, getting the opportunity to eat something for lunch other than turkey on white bread was a welcome change of pace.

The next leg of our trip finally brought us to the grand prize, Yosemite. This park is a spectacular gem on the ring finger of the National Parks system. The valley is about as cool a place as you will find anywhere in the U.S. That said, we went in what is really the off season, so a lot of the water had dried up. While it may have been the off season, it was also extremely crowded, and in some ways, reminded me more of Disneyworld than a National Park.

Our first two hikes were Lower and Upper Yosemite Falls. The lower falls was still a trickle, but unfortunately, the Upper was completely dry. The hike on the Upper Falls trail, to Columbia Rock, is still a great one, with an amazing view of Half Dome, but it is quite strenuous.

After this, we spent sometime in Yosemite Village and picked up our Junior Ranger packets. This was one of my biggest frustrations. Since we started with our passport books and Junior Ranger badges, we have visited 47 National Park sites. Thus far, Yosemite has been the only park to charge for them. As this is one of the most visited parks in the world, I found this to be completely ridiculous, and certainly let the park rangers there know how I felt.

We left the park that afternoon, only about a mile out, to go horseback riding. All the guided tours inside the park are currently suspended, but this trail ride right on the perimeter was really cool, with several river crossings. The guides from Yosemite Trail Rides really did a great job.

We spent that night in Yosemite, in the Wawona Campgound. This site was actually pretty mediocre, but it is within the park, so that was a big bonus. On week days, the wait to get in can be up to an hour, and on weekends, up to three, so skipping those lines was worth roughing it a bit.

The next day, we took the Mist Trail up to Vernal Falls, and this was pretty amazing. If you stop at Vernal Falls, it’s about 3 miles in and out, with the last portion being 650 very steep steps. It is definitely worth it though, as this waterfall is nothing short of spectacular. During the spring, I understand that it is common for people to get quite soaked on the trail, but even during the dry season, the fall was still a sight.

We spent the afternoon on rented bikes taking a self-guided 8 mile tour of the Valley, then headed back to camp and packed up the RV for departure. We awoke early the next morning and drove back to San Francisco, ready to leave Gertie behind.

It is important to note for those not familiar with RVing that when you return the rig, it is expected that it be full of gas and propane, but emptied of everything else. When we got back, our proprietor was very gracious, and while Gertie was not always the easiest rig to drive, she got us there and back, so I have no regrets.

We took an Uber to the Intercontinental San Francisco, a hotel that is walking distance to Oracle Park, and we headed to the Giants game. We find it nice to give the kids a break from all the hiking and outdoors-ing with something a bit more cosmopolitan. We all love watching baseball, and going to new stadiums is a lot of fun. The Giants beat the Astros, and the game featured 7 home runs, which was a lot of fun. Oracle Park is pretty cool, with the bay just beyond the right field wall, but honestly, I was less impressed than I thought I would be.

After the game, we took a bus to Ghiradelli Square, as my daughter is obsessed with their chocolates. We got ice cream, looked into the bay at Alcatraz and had dinner at San Francisco Brewing Co. Frankly, I found neither the beer nor the food to be of any particular note, but it was nice to sit outside and listen to music.

We left early the next morning and made it back to New Orleans in time to start laundry. I had to work the next day, but the kids slept much later than normal. This was the type of vacation that almost requires a follow up vacation. An RV trip is amazing, but it is also exhausting. It is a great way to spend time with your family and to see vast parts of the country in one fell swoop. If you are planning one or even considering it, please reach out. I am happy to share the things that worked for us and those that didn’t. Until then, we’ll see you next time the Igoes go a-traveling.

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Thankfully in Gatlinburg

This year, we were unable to find a time to take a family vacation with my parents and brothers. My youngest brother is currently in a monastery (by choice), my middle brother is on the west coast with his girlfriend (now fiancée), and my elder brother and his family have been hesitant to travel for various reasons.

My parents still wanted to try to get everyone together for a trip, though, so instead of spending Thanksgiving at their house in St. Louis, they rented an amazing house on top of a mountain in Gatlinburg, TN.

Now, to no one’s surprise, none of my brother’s were able (or decided) to attend, but we were super-excited to jump on this opportunity to take the kids on a great family vacation with their grandparents.

Getting to Gatlinburg isn’t the simplest of tasks, since the nearest airport is in Knoxville, still an hour away, so we decided to drive. We left New Orleans at 4 am on Wednesday, very reminiscent of my family vacation growing up. We made it to Montgomery, Alabama, where we stopped at Greg’s Breakfast Bar. Alyson found this place on several top 10 breakfast lists in the area, and while it was not really what we expected, the food was fantastic. Just be forewarned that this restaurant makes a hole-in-the-wall look the French Laundry.

From there, we drove northeast, heading for the southern entrance to Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Aside from being a great tourist destination, Gatlinburg is immediately adjacent to this country’s most visited National Park, and those of you that follow us know that this was a big draw.

One of the frequently suggested activities in Smoky Mountain is to drive the Newfound Gap Road, which stretches the entire length of the park, north to south. We entered near the Oconaluftee Visitors Center, stamped our books, picked up our Junior Ranger packets, and headed north.

Now, it turns out that the older two Igoes have gotten over the Junior Ranger badges, which is kind of sad, but we didn’t want to force it on them, so instead of working on their books, we simply enjoyed an extremely scenic drive through the Smoky Mountains.

Once we exited the north entrance, we met my parents at the house in the early evening. It is hard to properly describe just how amazing the house my mom found on VRBO was, but I will try. It was three stories, with three balconies, all hanging over the side of a mountain, and a hot tub. It had a pool table, an arcade and a legit movie theater, and since only my branch of the family attended, we all, including the kids, had our own master suites.

After a quick dinner with my parents, we put Clara to bed, and the rest of us headed back down the mountain into Pigeon Forge. Pigeon Forge is on the other side of Gatlinburg from the park, and is appropriately referred to Vegas for Kids. It is certainly a tourist trap, but it is filled with countless activities for kids of all ages. That night, we took the big kids to Pigeon Forge Snow, which is basically an indoor version of a sledding hill where the kids got to shoot down the ‘mountain’ on inner tubes for an hour. If you are from the South, and your kids rarely get access to snow, this is a great activity.

The next morning, Thanksgiving, we got up early and all headed back into Pigeon Forge to a place called Legacy Mountain Ziplines. In case you couldn’t figure it out from the name, this is a great place to go wine tasting. Additionally, they have an amazing zipline course that requires a bus to take you to the top of a mountain.

My parents watched Clara, so we were all able to go, and while it was cold at the top of the mountain, the views were spectacular, and the guides were great. It had been about two years since I’d gone ziplining, and I forgot how much I enjoy it. Something unique about this course, you can go tandem with children as young as 3, so if you are looking for a great experience for the whole family, Legacy Mountain is a good option.

Following that, we got a quick lunch at the Cici’s Pizza buffet, which yes, is open and staffed by angry employees on Thanksgiving day, and headed into the park. We stopped at the Newfound Gap itself, then drove onto Clingman’s Dome. This is short but quite strenuous trail that leads to one of the highest points in the Smoky Mountains, where a very impressive lookout tower is located.

Frankly, I was impressed that both of our ambulatory children made it. The hike is less than a mile round trip, and the trail is paved, but the way up is shockingly steep, to the point that my mom never actually made it all the way up. The view from the top, however, is spectacular, and something that you won’t really see anywhere else in the park.

While mom didn’t make it to the top the hill, she did make it to the top of the awesome-list by getting Thanksgiving dinner from the Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant. This was a great decision. Instead of spending the day stuck in the kitchen, we were able to get outdoors and still enjoy a great meal. It may not have been as good as when grandma made it (although my grandma never actually made me Thanksgiving dinner), but it was very high quality and great way to cap off the holiday.

The next morning, we rose early again and headed for the Grotto Falls Trail. This trail goes on for several miles, but the payoff is about 1.5 miles in, where you’ll find an amazing waterfall. Cooler still, you can actually walk behind this cascade, which is pretty rare experience. This was my favorite part of the trip, and by far, my mom’s least favorite.

It had rained the night before, so the trail was pretty muddy, and the temperate was just under 35 degrees. My mom does not handle being cold well, and on the walk back, she made this clear to anyone and everyone within earshot. Regardless, I thought this was a fantastic hike, but if you decide to go, I recommend getting there early. This is a very highly trafficked trail, and the parking is very limited.

An added benefit to this trail is that it is stop #5 of 13 on the Roaring Fork Motor Trail. This is a narrow, one-way road through a specific portion of the park along the Roaring Fork River with incredible scenery throughout. Once my mom had gotten back in the car and spent some time with a seat warmer, even she enjoyed it.

On the way back through Gatlinburg, we stopped at Parton’s Deli (no relation to Dolly), where I got one of the best pastrami sandwiches that I have ever had. From there, we hopped over to the Gatlinburg Mountain Coaster. If you’ve never been on a mountain coaster, it is exactly what it sounds like. The baby fell asleep in the car, so my parents were happy to stay with her while we waited in line for about an hour for a four minute coaster ride. That said, it was totally worth it. Zipping down the hill on two rails with nothing but a chain link fence between you and bottom of the mountain is exhilarating. There are several of these in the area, and we didn’t try them all, so while I cannot say this is the best, it certainly got the job done for our family.

That night, we ate second Thanksgiving, then headed back into Pigeon Forge and met up with the folks from Smoky Mountain Jeep Tours. The tour took us from Pigeon Forge into Gatlinburg to see all of the Christmas lights. It seemed like a great idea, but to be honest, turned out kind of stupid. I really liked the guide, and several of their other tour options seem great, but the majority of this ride was spent sitting in traffic. I highly recommend the company, but not this specific excursion.

The next morning, we rose, you guessed it, early, and headed back into the park. Mom decided to sit this one out, which is too bad, because this hike was far easier and far warmer. We got to the Laurel Falls trailhead early, which again, is a good thing, as parking is limited and traffic is heavy. Just another great trail that goes for miles, but has a payoff a mile and a half in, a very impressive, towering waterfall. I think this was everyone else’s favorite trail. It is paved, less strenuous, and there are several areas at the falls where the kids could safely climb.

We could have spent days exploring Great Smoky Mountains, but in the short time we had, I think we hit all the major highlights. Perhaps earlier in the fall or mid-spring are probably better times to visit, and at holidays the tourism industry booms, but we really enjoyed our ninth National Park of 2021.

After leaving Laurel Falls, we made our way back into Pigeon Forge and hit up one of the many go-kart tracks on the strip. I cannot actually remember the name of the course, but it was a fun ride. We actually briefly considered hitting up all of the tracks to discover which ride was the fastest, as there are about a dozen of them, but it didn’t seem like the best use of our time, and one was enough to satisfy my soon-to-be driving daughter.

We got a serviceable sandwich at Firehouse Subs, then headed once more into Gatlinburg in hopes of getting to Anakeesta. Anakeesta is basically a resort which sits atop a mountain and has a lookout tower, ziplines, a coaster, several bars, restaurants and multiple sky bridges, amongst other things.

When we arrived, the line to get tickets was about twenty minutes long, and the line to take the chair lift up was about two and a half hours. If you are set on going though, and don’t care about how you get to the top, a bus runs every 15 to 30 minutes. The view on the way up isn’t as impressive, but we were happy to pass on the lift to save ourselves 120 minutes.

Once we got to the top, we put the kids in line for the mountain coaster, and went to the amphitheater area to have a beer and listen to a surprisingly religious blue grass band. The kids disagreed as to which coaster they preferred, but they definitely enjoyed the eight total minute they spent shooting down the mountains.

We climbed the viewing tower and toured the sky bridges, and all told, spent about three hours atop the mountain. It is hard to really describe the experience, because for much of it, you are just wandering around, not really doing anything specific, but whatever it is, it is a lot of fun if you can stand the wait.

My parents took the bus back down, but since there was no line at the top, we took the chair lift and actually got back to the car first. There is something exhilarating about riding down the mountain in the open air, although to me, it becomes a bit mundane after the first few minutes.

We drove back into Pigeon Forge to catch a 5 pm church service at Holy Cross Catholic Church, which was nothing fancy, but it was nice to be able to go to mass even whilst traveling. That night, we polished off the last of the Thanksgiving leftovers, packed up and went down for one last night atop the mountain.

My parents left early on Sunday morning to get back to St. Louis, but we decided to slip in one more excursion. In Gatlinburg proper, there is a sky bridge to rival all others at Gatlinburg SkyLift. The ride up the lift is not as long as Anakeesta, and the views from the top are pretty impressive. There is not actually a lot to do, once you get to the top, aside from walk from one peak to other and back, but it is a very Gatlinburg experience, and we did not want to miss out.

Once we’d made it back down, we loaded ourselves in our Honda Pilot and drove the 10 hours back to New Orleans. This was one of the most memorable Thanksgivings we have had in a long time. If your family is willing, I highly recommend making the most of these times off, and making the holiday a destination one.

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Indigenous People in Philadelphia

This year, my kids’ fall break fell on the same weekend as Columbus Day, a holiday dedicated to the memory of a guy who, by all accounts, was a jerk. Regardless, we have gotten in the habit of using this long weekend to explore some of America’s greatest cities. This year, we set out for Philadelphia.

This was the first time in a while that we flew on an airline other than Southwest, and since Southwest cancelled like a billion flights, it was fortuitous. It was also the first time that we’ve ever flown on Frontier. The overall experience was positive. The flights between New Orleans and Philly were direct, which was great with a 15 month old, and super-cheap. That said, Frontier charges extra for just about everything. We prepaid for three carry-on bags (not included in the price of the flight), and we had to pay to pick our seats. Even with these extras though, it was still about $400 cheaper than the other options, and the experience, while not the best I have ever had, was perfectly satisfactory.

We landed pretty late, after 9 pm local time, picked up the rental car and headed for the Holiday Inn Express at Penn’s Landing. This wasn’t our first choice of hotel, but it was in a cool spot, and again, the price was right. Since we planned to spend little time in the hotel, it was an easy choice.

On our way in, we stopped at a hole in the wall burger place in East Passyunk (everything in Philly has an unpronounceable name) call P’unk Burger. Frankly, it wasn’t anything special, but it was open, on the way and had milkshakes, so we were all happy enough.

The next morning, we woke early (well, the baby woke us early), ate breakfast in hotel, grabbed our passport books and headed northeast to the Valley Forge National Historic Park. Less than an hour outside of Philadelphia proper is the location where General Washington and Continental Army wintered in 1777-1778. This was a critical turning point in the American Revolution in terms of confidence and morale, and in getting foreign support for the cause of colonials.

The site is vast and very inspiring. The Visitors Center is nice, but many of the displays were closed due to COVID, and the area in general seems like a great place to bike or run. We booked a guided trolley tour which hit all the main spots and stopped at some of the replica huts and Washington’s headquarters. The guide was knowledgeable and charming, and it was a really nice way to see the entire Park and learn about its history all at the same time.

The trolley passed by the Memorial Arch, but did not stop, so afterwards, we made our way back and spent a few minutes exploring what I felt like is the best part of the site. If you have time and are in the area, Valley Forge is an important landmark in American history, and the site has been very well preserved.

On our way back to town, we stopped for lunch at a brew house called Puddlers, where they serve high quality bar food and beer from the Conshohocken (pronounced ‘I don’t know’) Brewing company. The restaurant offers great outdoor seating area on the Schuylkill (pronounced ‘I don’t know’) River where Clara could run around without bothering anyone. The beer and food were as good as you’d expect from a local brewery, and we felt right at home.

That afternoon, we parked at Franklin Square where Eileen and JR took Clara on her first carousel ride, an important milestone in the life of every human child. After that, we played a round of mini-golf, which always brings out the best in the older kids, and got ice cream. Franklin Square is one of the original squares planned by William Penn, and was a fun way to spend the afternoon.

We went from there a few blocks over the Betsy Ross House. This is one of the places she lived, and it is really well-preserved. The house itself can be toured in about five minutes, but it is another interesting part of American history. I wouldn’t say this is a ‘can’t-miss’ part of the Philadelphia experience, but if you’ve got the time, it’s an interesting place in a cool part of town.

In fact, it is only a few blocks from Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest continuously lived in residential street in the country. There is a small museum on the block, although it was closed at the time of our visit, but simply walking this area is enough to get an idea as to what life was like as America began to develop as a nation.

We also had tom to swing by the Betsy Ross House, which is a small but unique museum. It did not blow any of us away, but if you have an extra 30 minutes, it is worth your time.

My older brother lives in Jenkintown (JTP!), PA, so that evening, we drove to their house and met he and his wife, daughter and son for dinner. Fun fact, my brother’s house is actually on the same block upon which Adam Golberg grew up, so that was an unexpected, added bonus.

We ate dinner at a nearby bar called The Drake (got to love the Drake). It has a nice menu and is kid friendly, and provided a good opportunity to reconnect with my brother. Since the pandemic has been raging, we have not gotten to see his branch of the family for almost two years. While this had little to do with our plan to visit Philadelphia, it was definitely an added bonus.

On Sunday morning, we enjoyed a church service at the Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul, the cede of the archdiocese of Philadelphia. This church is beautiful and awe-inspiring, and Alyson was able to purchase a great rosary from gift shop, her favorite souvenir. This blog is not meant to be a review of different church services, but this one was mediocre. The priest’s homily went on for a good 20+ minutes, primarily saying the same thing over and over. My youngest brother is currently studying to become a priest, and I reiterate to him whenever possible that 8 minutes is where you want to live. Once someone has been speaking for over 8 minutes, 75% of the audience stops paying attention. The statistic is one of which the priest on this specific Sunday, evidently, was unaware.

Despite the long winded-ness, we had plenty of time to find brunch before our next scheduled excursion. We stopped a great cafe called Sabrina’s, which had a menu that everyone enjoyed, and the portions were absurd. Of all the meals we ate, I think Alyson and I agreed that this was our favorite.

Following brunch, we walked to the ‘LOVE’ sculpture so that Eileen could get a picture for her Instaface account, then walked over the Franklin Institute. Not to be confused with Franklin Square or the Franklin House (evidently, someone important named Franklin did something important at some point in Philadelphia), the Institute is a very interactive science museum with exhibits for kids of all ages.

The elder two really liked the sports-science section, and a Gallagher-esque live show where a big hammer smashed a bunch of smaller items. The baby really liked a show put on by two oddly dressed characters who claimed to be from the future (although JR seemed skeptical). We spent about two hours in the institute, but could easily go back for two more and experience a whole set of exhibits that had to skip our first time through.

Still full from our first meal, we drove from the Franklin Institute to the Museum of the American Revolution. My brother, having never been, met us here with his two kids, and we spent the next two hours exploring. When you first enter, there is a great video that gives a succinct, twelve minute recap of the war. It obviously does not dive too deep, but it was a great overview for the kids.

The museum has an area dedicated to younger learners, and several exhibits one can tour chronologically to get a great idea as to how the war progressed. At the end, there is another video, which finishes by revealing the actual tent that George Washington used during the war. This was one of my favorite parts of the trip, and a museum that rivals things like the Smithsonian and World War 2 museums.

After that, we went to the Franklin Fountain (I’m not sure for who this is named) and go the kids milk shakes. We said good-bye to my brother and his kids, and headed back to our hotel to relax.

At one point, we were planning to eat at either Pat’s or Gino’s, but it didn’t work out this time. Years ago, I ate at Pat’s, so it would have been nice to try Gino’s for comparison, but the weather at the time was mediocre, so we decided to eat someplace with indoor seating. That said, Eileen wanted another picture for her Snapbook, so we we drove over and grabbed a few photos.

We ended up eating at Oh Brother Philly, where we got two wiz and one chick steak. It was way too much food, and it is really hard to judge where it actually ranks in terms of cheese steaks, but I really enjoyed it and would definitely go back if we were in the area again.

We flew back Monday, but our flight was not until 1 pm, so in the morning we visited the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall. All of us, aside from Clara, had already visited, but none of the kids had gotten their books stamped, and JR was too little to remember. The Liberty Bell is really cool, and the approach to it has a lot of great information about more than just the bell.

Independence Hall is also really cool, and has been well-preserved. Our tour guide, Larry, was very informative and seemed to really enjoy what he was doing.

That said, this was by far my least favorite part of our trip. We have visited over 60 National Park sites and plan to visit many more, and this was the first where the park rangers were specifically unpleasant. Our guide, Larry, was great, but everyone else was rude, short and in more than one instance, downright mean, especially in regards to our one year old.

I am not going to go too greatly into detail, but it is hard to find someone who is willing to act like an @$$hole to our youngest and hard to find rangers that are more into themselves than they are into providing visitors with great experiences. It might have just been a bad day, so I will dwell no longer, but it was a very unfortunate experience.

Despite all of that, our family had a great trip. Philadelphia is so robust that we could go back and do a completely different set of excursions, and still have a great time. In terms of great American cities, Philadelphia is definitely at the top of the list. I would recommend it to anyone, from young to old, foreign or indigenous, it is a great place to visit.

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Rocky Mountain High

This summer, we followed suit and joined the crowds at one of our country’s most visited National Parks, Rocky Mountain. I could make the argument that crowds are following us, as we’ve been going hard on the NPs for the past three years, but what’s the point in that?

My wife’s mom planned a trip for the family to Colorado, but due to a work commitment, I was unable to join, and our eldest daughter, Eileen, was in camp in Alabama, so was also absent. For the first four days, my wife, son and younger daughter stayed with Alyson’s family in Vail. At some point, she may add a post about that, but I will pick up the story where that trip ended.

On Friday, I left work in Atlanta and was picked up by Alyson, JR and Clara at the Denver airport. From there, we headed north to Estes Park and the Rocky Mountains. We initially got a bit lost, and ended up at a little used entrance to the National Park called Wild Basin.

We spoke with a few locals on the trails, who mentioned that this area was a favorite of theirs because it was generally free of tourists (aside from us). There were some great sites and trials, including a cool waterfall. It does not offer the classic, breathtaking views of the greater park, but if you have the time, it is worth trying to find.

From there, we drove up to the main east entrance of the park and started across on the Trail Ridge Road. This road is the highest continuously paved road in the country, and offers spectacular panoramics at every turn.

Our first trek from east to west took place in the evening, so we didn’t stop as much as we might otherwise have. Even so, we did run across several deer, two large herds of elk and one fearless moose.

We made our way through the park and checked into the Gateway Inn, a great lodge on the west side of the park in Grand Lake. We had a quaint room with a balcony and a beautiful view of a storm rolling in over the mountains. It also houses the O-a Bistro, which caters to bother locals and hotel guests. The bistro is nothing spectacular, but it has a nice menu and a full bar, and the staff at this hotel and restaurant are about as nice a group of people as I have ever come across.

The next morning, we got up with the baby and headed out for a quick hike to Adams Falls. This trail, like Wild Basin, is off the main road of the National Park, but is just an amazing experience. It is less than a mile round trip and the payoff is spectacular. The falls are easily accessible and incredibly beautiful. The area is minimally trafficked to the point that we basically had the falls to ourselves.

We got back to the car and headed back across the Rockies, again on the Trail Ridge Road. We made a quick stop for a picture, and for JR to record a video for his YouTube channel, at the Continental Divide, and then headed for the Alpine Visitors’ Center.

We stamped our books, got our Junior Ranger booklets and headed up the mountain. The Alpine Ridge Trail does not look all that daunting, but it goes straight to 12,000+ feet. The air thins and the legs tire, but the payoff at the top is worth the effort. The 360 degree view of these monstrous is incomparable.

Our last stop before we left the park was Bear Lake. This area is heavily trafficked, and it took us several times through the parking lot to find a spot, but it was worth the effort. From the lot, we did a two mile out-and-back hike to Alberta Falls. This is a much more heavily visited fall than Adams, but perhaps even more breathtaking. The water thunders down hundreds of feet and offers countless amazing views and photo ops of something that you just can’t find in a place like Louisiana.

I wish we had more time in Rocky Mountain, but I think we made the best of the opportunity. We plan to go back, with Eileen, at some point in the next few years, hopefully taking an RV trip all over Colorado.

We drove into Denver and checked into a Holiday Inn Express near Coors Field. We met up with a friend from St. Louis and watched the Rockies lose a 9th inning lead to the Brewers. This is the fourth baseball stadium that I have visited this summer, and while it certainly does not compare to Wrigley, I enjoyed it more than Milwaukee and about the same as Atlanta. Overall, I have nothing legitimately bad to say about our baseball experience (except that the Brewers won), and always recommend supplementing a hiking trip like this with something a little cosmopolitan.

The last day of our visit, Sunday, was Father’s Day, and we grabbed a quick breakfast at Citizen Rail at Union Station. The restaurant has a bit of limited menu, but the food was good, and I would certainly eat there again.

The last thing we did prior to leaving was visit Red Rocks. This was almost an afterthought, as we were just trying to kill time before our flight, and thank the Good Dude that we did. If you thought Red Rocks was just a great concert venue, well, you’d be correct, but you’d be missing out on some of the most amazing hiking and scenery within a short drive of Denver. We took the Trading Post trail, about a two mile, pretty rigorous loop, and what a fantastic experience.

The topography of this area is different than anything I have ever seen, including the Rockies. If you have the chance, this is a can’t-miss part of one of the most amazing states in this country.

We had such a great time in less than three full days that we are already planning a trip back. Most people visit Colorado over the winter to ski, and while that makes a lot of sense, there is so much to do year round that you cannot limit yourself to just one season. If you have any questions or want suggestions, please reach out, otherwise, we’ll see you the next time we go a-traveling.

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Memories in St. Louis

This Memorial Day, my family and I took a quick trip to Missouri to spend the holiday weekend with my parents, brothers and their families. We all grew up in St. Louis, and it is always nice to all go back together, as none of us currently live in the area.

We flew up early on Saturday morning and met my family at the National Museum of Transportation. This is a site that I visited many times as a child, and offers a lot for kids of certain ages. It has a great old car museum, multiple old train cars that you can tour, and a train ride around the entire park. It is definitely geared more towards kids younger (or older) than ours, ideally the 4 through 7 ages, but we enjoyed it.

We went to the Corner Pub and Grill for lunch, which has a vast menu for just about anyone, but is nothing spectacular, then went to relax at my parent’s house. After we unpacked, we went with my brothers to the O’Fallon Brewery. My middle brother, in particular, is a big fan of breweries, and this was a nice way to spend the evening.

The following day, we really kicked off our trip. This was Sunday, and the family decided to head about an hour south to Hawn State Park. This is another location that we visited a lot as kids, and it offers several really interesting hikes.

As my family, in particular, is big into getting our National Park passport books stamped, we left a bit early and took a little detour. In 2018, the Ste. Genevieve Historic Park became a part of the National Park services. Ste. Genevieve is the site of the first permanent European settlement in Missouri and is one of the newest sites designated by the Parks services.

It is so new in fact, that they are still building out the area. The Visitors’ Center offers some very cool scale models and a very informative video. In addition, there are several buildings that are part of site that date back to the late 1700s. The kids got their books stamped and did the Junior Ranger packets, and we pressed on. This is currently not a site that you would want to spend more than an hour or two at, but if you are in the area, it is pretty interesting.

When we arrived at Hawn State Park, we met my family at the Pickle Creek Trail and headed out. This trail follows a very scenic river about a mile deep into the park. While the entire trail is pretty impressive, the end offers several natural water-slides upon which the kids can play. The water was a little cold, but it is a lot of fun for the kids to have something to look forward to at the end.

The park has multiple trails that seem pretty worthwhile, but as we had the baby with us, we decided one good hike was enough for us. The baby fell asleep in the car on the way home, so after we ate and changed, we headed back into town and spent the afternoon at the City Museum.

If you have kids between the ages of 6 and 16, I would call this perhaps the number one ‘must-do’ in St. Louis. While it says museum in the name, there is very little educational about this attraction. The City Museum consists largely of repurposed architectural and industrial objects through which the kids crawl, climb and tunnel. It is hard to do this museum justice in print, but it is the first place that Jonathan and Eileen ask to go every time we are in St. Louis.

We went to the City Museum without the rest of our family, as my brother’s kids are just a bit too young for the experience, but we all met back at the house for Imo’s Pizza. If you watch Jimmy Kimmel, you may have heard one of his rant against Imo’s, but if you are from St. Louis, like Jon Hamm, you understand that this pizza isn’t just from St. Louis, it is St. Louis. There is nothing in the world that takes me back to my formative years than eating one of these thin, provel-covered delights.

The next day, we hit the Zoo, and while I have been there many times, it never fails to impress. The St. Louis Zoo is regularly ranked as one of the top five in the country, but perhaps the most attractive feature is that the zoo is free. Our zoo in New Orleans, which is fine but nothing special, costs almost $20/person. Getting to see fantastic zoo with great animals and enclosures, for free, is a reason to go to St. Louis in and of itself. My kids, who only go to St. Louis once or twice a year, have probably been a dozen times, and it never gets old.

We left the Zoo and headed to The Hill for lunch. The Hill is an old neighborhood in St. Louis that was settled by Italian immigrants. While it has produced some notable people, like Hall of Famer Yogi Berra, the best product of The Hill is the food. There are bakeries, delis or restaurants on every corner, and this time around, we picked Joe Fassi’s. Joe offers about 20 different sandwiches, and while they all sound good, I cannot never pass on the salami. If you are visiting St. Louis and looking for a really unique, high quality restaurant, I recommend just about anywhere on The Hill.

Before we headed for the airport, we made a quick stop at Ted Drewes. I feel like, aside from the Cardinals who were on the road at the time, we really hit all the St. Louis classics. Ted Drewes is an old drive-in/diner-style frozen custard shop. Their specialty is called a concrete, which is reminiscent of a blizzard, from DQ, but so much better. It is hard to choose, but I think I have to recommend the Oreo concrete; it may well be the best desert I have ever enjoyed.

Since my parents live their, we visit St. Louis a lot, but we try to do something different every time. I think we hit the nail on the head this Memorial Day, and the kids really seemed to enjoy. If you are going sometime soon, please reach out as I would be happy to give you suggestions for families of all shapes and sizes.

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Mother’s Day on the Bayou

Since we got our passport books in Hot Springs, AR in 2018, we have been doing our best to collect as many stamps as possible, and visit every National Park site we can. This year, for Mother’s Day, the Traveling Igoes decided to knock off some of the low-hanging fruit.

There are two site within a few minutes of where we live in Louisiana, the New Orleans Jazz National Historic Park and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve. The Jazz Heritage Site has been closed since COVID began, but Jean Lafitte has recently become very accessible, and has a whole lot to offer.

We woke up early and headed down to French Quarter for brunch, where we at the Red Fish Grill. The restaurant is actually on Bourbon Street, just inside the Quarter, and is a great option for families. The food is extraordinary, but the atmosphere is very casual, and they offer a very diverse kid’s menu.

Afterwards, we wandered the Quarter for a bit, including Jackson Square and the riverfront, we made our way back to the car, changed into our hiking gear and headed south towards the tip of Louisiana.

The Jean Lafitte site is about 30 minutes outside of New Orleans, and for those visiting the city with kids, it is a good option. New Orleans offers far more adult attractions than it does for the younger members of the family, so having a National Park Site within half an hour at which you can spend an entire day is a nice option.

The park actually has six sites scattered across South Louisiana. Each location is unique in its focus, and they all reflect a place where traditions can be generations old, but the ground under your feet can change with the weather. The focus of this adventure was the Barataria Preserve.

The 26,000 acres include swamps, bayous, marshes and forests, and is crisscrossed by boardwalks that are frequented by humans, snakes and gators alike. When we arrived, we hit up the Visitors’ Center, got some info from the ranger, a few Junior Ranger Packets and headed out along the Visitor Center Trail.

This is only a 0.25 mile boardwalk near the Visitors’ Center that we were actually planning to skip, but the ranger told us that a mating pair of alligators were basking near the end. As usual, the ranger was telling the truth, and less than five feet from the boardwalk were two good looking gators. We saw several alligators in the wild at the Everglades, but it never gets old, and getting up close and personal is a bit exhilarating.

From there, we got back in the car and drove to the Bayou Coquille trailhead. There is a boardwalk connecting the Visitors’ Center to the Bayou trail, but, according to the ranger, it is not at all shaded, so we skipped the Palmetto Trail. Perhaps if we return at a cooler time of year, we will give it a go, but from April to September in Louisiana, it can be very unpleasant to walk 0.9 miles in zero shade, 90% humidity.

The Bayou Coquille Trail is an eerie trek through a Louisiana bayou that might have been pulled from a storybook. Within five minutes, we saw a small gator swimming up the bayou, leading to a baby gator sunning itself on an island. This trail is about half a mile, and in that half mile, we also ran across three harmless, but nonetheless creepy, snakes.

This trail dead ends at another trail, the Marsh Overlook, where we found a clearing overlooking a lily-filled marsh. On this portion of the walk, we came across two more alligators, culminating in a large gator resting in the marsh itself.

Most of these hikes are along boardwalks and are well tended, and the walk itself is relatively easy, to the point that we were able to do it with a stroller. There is no denying that we were sweaty by the end, but it was a great two-mile trek.

It is also worth noting that the Junior Ranger packet was relatively easy. Those of you that have gotten multiple badges know that some are very straight forward while others can actually be a pain in the ass. This packet was appropriate to the level of the park, and was easily completed in one day.

If you are visiting New Orleans, either with or without kids, and you want an excursion that will take you out of the city for a few hours, Jean Lafitte is a great option. If you want a longer excursion, there are several companies that offer airboat tours of the area as well.

Prior to going, I was optimistic that perhaps one day, this site might get re-designated as a Louisiana’s first National Park. Having visited, it seems unlikely to me, as the potential activities are a bit limited. That said, if you are in the area, I highly recommend you take the time to experience this beautiful cross-section of our underrated state.

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Baseball’s Back in the Midwest

I have said many times that the planning of a trip creates almost as much joy as does the vacation itself, and I stand by that statement. In the case of the Igoe’s recent vacation to Chicago, the planning was a multi-year process.

In early 2020, we decided to take a vacation over the Easter holiday to Chicago. As I am sure everyone is aware, only a few weeks after we planned everything out, the world went crazy and everything was shut down due to COVID.

This year, as Easter approached, we very closely watched the news, and the numbers, and all the information from the various departments of health, and when the time came, we were able to pull the trigger and take the vacation that we had been planning since 2019.

On Good Thursday, we landed at Midway Airport and drove straight to Lou Malnati’s. This is a deep dish restaurant chain that makes a great, almost stereotypical Chicago-style pizza. For those of you who have never had deep dish pizza in Chicago, it is very different than what is considered deep dish elsewhere. For one, the crust is actually not very think, but is much more like what you would see in an actual pie. The next layer on our pizza was cheese, followed by a pizza-sized patty of sausage. To clarify, I do not mean multiple chunks of sausage, but one large disc. On top of this was poured the sauce, so to most us, this is basically an upside down pizza. While I will not say that Lou’s is the best pizza I have ever had, it was a great way to wade into the deep dish pizza waters.

From there, we headed down town to stay a Hampton Inn in the Majestic building. The year prior, we had reservations at the Palmer House, but due to capacity limitations, could not get a room. While there was nothing all that special about the Hampton Inn, it was inside the loop, walking distance to plenty of attractions and more than adequate in terms of accommodations.

The next morning, we all awoke when the baby started making noise, loaded up the rental car and headed for Indiana. On the way, we stopped at Firecakes Donuts. Evidently, Chicago has become a mecca for artisan style donuts, and Firecakes was the first of the three we tried. At all three, I got a classic old fashioned, and while Firecakes was not the best of the three, it was nonetheless fantastic. More on the donuts to come…

About an hour east of Chicago is Indiana Dunes National Park. Indiana Dunes is one of the country’s newest National Parks, previously designated a National Lakeshore, to the point that they have not yet installed a permanent National Park sign. When we arrived, the kids got their passport books stamped, and we picked up three junior ranger packets. We headed into the park, straight for the Three Dune Challenge. This is a relatively strenuous hike that goes up and down three separate sand dunes. It is not easy to explain how difficult a dune can be to ascend if you have never hiked one before, but walking up hill in the sand is quite cumbersome (especially with an 18 pound butterball strapped to your stomach). The payoff was worth it though, as the views of Lake Michigan from atop each peak are nothing short of spectacular.

Indiana Dunes is far more popular in the summer time, when you can camp out on the beach and play in the water, but there is plenty to do and see, no matter what time of year you visit. It is definitely a park that you could spend three or four days exploring, but it is also one that can be adequately experienced if you only have a few free hours. Even though this was our first excursion of the trip, I think it was my favorite experience overall. If you get the chance, I strongly recommend visiting this really unique park to take in a landscape that can be found in very few other places across the country.

On our way back to Chicago, since we had our passport books, we decided to stop at the Pullman National Monument. This site memorializes a really interesting moment in Chicago history when George Pullman created a planned community in which his factory workers could live. He was attempting to keep the families of his employees from having to live in slums, but at the same time, forced them to rent from him. It was quite controversial and eventually led to significant strife.

This site was only designated a part of the NPS in 2015 and is still in development. It is really interesting, but there is not a whole lot to do as of yet. If we ever get back to Chicago, I hope to visit the monument again.

From there, we got drove to the hotel, parked the Hyundai and walked up to the Chicago River, where we got on-board a Wendella tour. There several companies that offer architectural river tours, and the one recommended to us by several friends was Wendella. At certain times of the year, they actually go into Lake Michigan as well, but for this time of year, that was not available.

Following the Great Fire of 1871, Chicago developed a very interesting and unique architectural style. Multiple skyscrapers, luxury apartments and stone buildings have gone up along the river, and this 90 minute cruise gives tourists a chance to take it all in and learn a lot about the history of the city. I should warn you that the cruise does get a bit chilly, so dress appropriately and do not hesitate to take advantage of the bar and warm yourself up with a cocktail. I believe this was Alyson’s favorite part of our trip and in terms of bang for your buck, this is a can’t miss tourist attraction.

That night, we ate at Harry Caray’s Italian Steakhouse. As it was a Friday in Lent, I was a little disappointed not to get to try the steak (as was the waiter), but the pasta dishes we all got were amazing. This is one of the most impressive restaurants that I have ever been in. It is basically a high-end version of a sports bar, with pictures and quotes and memorabilia everywhere. And it is not just a bunch of Cubs non-sense; the entire baseball community is represented in one form or another. We were actually lucky enough to meet one of Ernie Banks’ sons during our meal. I was quite skeptical at first, but he very quickly proved that he was, in fact, the child of Mr. Cub.

The next morning, Clara woke us up early again, and we headed for the Donut Vault. Another of Chicago’s boutique bakeries, the Vault offers the classics as well as several unique options. I got the old fashioned again, and again it was great, but it was not the best one I had over the weekend. My son got a pair of enormous donut holes that he claims were the best thing he ate all trip.

That morning we went to Field Museum, one of the city’s most diverse attractions. I visited once as a child and remember it being primarily dinosaur bones. Whether or not that is just a child’s memory or things have changed, this museum has evolved into one of the greatest natural history attractions in the country, rivaling the Smithsonian.

In addition to really impressive dinosaur skeletons, like the T. Rex Sue, the museum has amazing exhibits on the history of the planet, on the history of human beings, an impressive collection of gem stones, and then about six more hours worth of things to see for which we did not have time. They even have several virtual reality simulators that helped to keep the kids engaged throughout. I think this was Eileen’s favorite part of our Chicago adventure.

It was recommended to us that we eat at the Billy Goat Tavern. Those of you that are older might recall a classic SNL sketch based on this restaurant. It is a classic, tucked underneath the city streets that can be hard to find if you come from the wrong direction. There are a few options, but 95% of the food served are thin, grilled burgers. The food is good, but the atmosphere is what makes it worthwhile. If you have never been there before, it is important to keep in mind that even though the menu only has singles and doubles, you can order as many patties as you like. I got a triple, which ended up being the appropriate meat-to-bun ratio, but in my hungrier youth, I could easily have put down a quadruple or quintuple.

The next stop on our tour was the 360 Chicago Observation Deck in the John Hancock building. I have heard that the views from the Willis (Sears) Tower are actually better, but it was closed due to COVID, so beggars can’t be choosers. I am forced to confess that this was my least favorite part of our trip. We purchased 2 pm tickets and arrived at 1:40. When we got there, we were told it would be about an hour and fifteen minute wait. When I asked an associate what was the point of having 2 o’clock tickets if it didn’t mean we got to go at 2 o’clock, she told me that they do not guarantee anything, but that our tickets were good for a year.

As unhelpful as that was, we decided to stick it out, and made it to the 94th floor at around 2:45. Once I got over my impatience, I did enjoy the views and would recommend it, just be aware that the numbers on your tickets are basically meaningless. You step off the elevator into a room with panoramic overlooks of the city. For a little extra, you can try the tilt, where you stand against the glass and are slowly tilted out beyond the edge of the building. It is actually scarier to watch than it is to do, and it definitely makes the wait a bit more worthwhile. There is also a bar that serves drinks and gelato, so at least that is something.

As a result of the unexpected wait, we had to hurry through a bit, got back to the car and headed north to Milwaukee. I am aware that I have billed this as a Chicago trip, and that to this point, as much time will have been spent outside of Chicago as in, but due to the circumstances, we had to broaden our horizons.

It just so happens that we have all grown up as big baseball fans; the kids and I of the Cardinals, and Alyson of the Astros. While neither of those teams happened to be in Chicago or Milwaukee, both of those teams were playing at home, so on Saturday night, we drove to American Family Field (formerly Miller Park), and watched the Brewers lose to the Twins.

American Family is a nice, clean park, but it is not super unique. I suppose it was heavily limited by COVID, but it felt like we could have been watching a ball game anywhere. Even so, we all had a great time. Capacity was maxed at 25%, so we had plenty of room to spread out and there was not a bad seat in the house. The game itself was actually quite entertaining as well, for the more committed baseball fan. Both teams threw perfect games into the 5th, and the Twins pitching staff completed a really impressive one-hitter for a 2-0 victory. If you are the type of person who wants to see the greatest sporting venues this country has to offer, Milwaukee probably shouldn’t be on your list, but if you want to enjoy baseball in a nice, comfortable stadium, American Family Field will do the trick.

The next day was Easter, and since our church reservations were not until 10, and Clara woke us up at 7, we decided to go out for breakfast. Instead of donuts, we went to a restaurant called Yolk on the Chicago River. This is just simple, straightforward breakfast food with some interesting twists. My daughter got Oreo pancakes while my son got s’mores-based pancakes. Eileen loved hers but when my son started scraping off all the graham cracker and marshmallow fluff, we came to the decision that he is no longer allowed to order specialty pancakes. No matter how good they sound, all he ever wants is plain.

For Easter, we went to church at Holy Names Cathedral. A beautiful building, the service was performed by Cardinal Cupich, so it was a unique experience. When we do attend church in larger cities whilst on vacation, we always try to go the cathedral, if the city has one. These buildings are usually a sight worth seeing in and of themselves, and it helps to deepen the experience one gets in a different town.

Afterwards, we jumped on the L-train (which evidently is the same thing as the subway), and headed for Wrigley Field. The Cubs opened the 2021 season again division rivals, the Pittsburgh Pirates, and we were lucky enough to get four of the 10,000+ tickets available, due to capacity limitations.

If you are a baseball fan, and have never been to Wrigley, this is a must visit. Contrasting it to American Family the night before, it is easy to understand how the Cubs ballpark has become one of the most iconic sports venues in the country. Wrigley is tucked into a residential neighborhood and could easily be missed if it weren’t for the throngs of fans. Every seat, including those on the roof tops across the street, is amazing, and the atmosphere is electric, even at 25%.

Having grown up a Cardinals’ fan, I refuse to say it is the best baseball stadium I have ever visited, but it is certainly up there. I will also note the while the fan base is committed, the fans in the bleachers perhaps take it too far at times, in several not particularly family friendly ways. On Easter Sunday, the Cubs beat Pirates 4-2, and while I was certainly pulling for visitors, I have to admit that I had an amazing time.

After the game, we took the L-train back to the loop, and once again, walked to the Chicago River. We decided that we could not visit Chicago without experiencing one of the almost countless Chicago steakhouses. For the meat eaters out there, this is something that everyone should do at least once. That said, be prepared to pay. We ate at Chicago Cut, and it was fantastic, but the price for four of us was well over $200, and that included two steaks, two sides and a few drinks.

The reason these meals get so expensive is that the entrees usually start at around $60. Since both Jonathan and Eileen enjoy steak, we ordered two, along with two sides, and shared everything. I am glad we did it, and if we go back to Chicago, I could see doing it again, but this type of meal is obviously geared toward tourists and business folk, not the every day Chicago resident.

The next day, Monday, was our last day in Illinois, and we had few concrete plans, other than to get a donut. On Monday morning, we hit up Stan’s, and I got my third and final old fashioned. I am glad that we stuck with it, because this was my favorite donut of the weekend. Funny enough, it was my wife’s least favorite. Of the three donut places we hit, she enjoyed Firecake’s the most, and JR and Eileen preferred the Donut Vault. It just goes to show that there are different strokes for different folks, and that the Chicago donut scene, evidently, is blowing up.

We spent the rest of the day driving around different parts of Chicago. We went to the Lincoln Park area to see the Sacred Heart school and Loyola Marymount. This is a really scenic location, and a place that I could see my daughter going for college. We also ate at Pequod’s Pizza, a great neighborhood restaurant and bar. While Lou Malnati’s is certainly more well-known, the whole family agreed that the pizza at Pequod’s was far superior.

We flew home on Southwest that afternoon, and all crashed hard. It is extraordinarily satisfying to get to a experience a new city, mostly on foot. We love trying new restaurants, seeing new parks, and who could pass on finally getting to go back to a baseball game in person. One of the great things about this trip is that while we all enjoyed every activity, we all had different favorites. I enjoyed the Indiana Dunes the most, Alyson loved the river tour, JR’s favorite part was both baseball games, and Eileen loved the Field Museum. Oh, and Clara liked laughing at inappropriate moments during the Cardinal’s homily on Easter.

Chicago is a great and unique American city, and it has plenty of family friendly activities for all ages. It is also a city that offers so much, that it cannot all be done in one trip. If you have any questions, please reach out; our family would love to help yours enjoy Chicago as much as we did.

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Escaping Texas for the Glades, Bays and Big Cypress

It is a well-known fact that New Orleans is a hot-bed for Mardi Gras activity. Every year prior Lent, the city ramps up with balls, parades and parties. Unfortunately, almost all of this was cancelled in 2021 due to COVID, but it didn’t put a damper on the cities lesser-known holiday celebration. Almost every school in the city has the entire week off, so for New Orleanians, this is a great time to travel.

Since the rest of the world is at work and school, places like Disney World and Vale are far less crowded than usual. This year, we decided to join in the fun, and head to a state that has instituted very few COVID restrictions, Florida.

Since I was young, I have been fascinated by the Everglades. The endless rivers of grass, the crocodiles and the manatees have always seemed really unique, and when the opportunity arose, we decided to pull the trigger.

Alyson and I set to planning, and as I have said before, I find planning to be almost, but not quite, as much fun as the actual trip. We decided to leave on Ash Wednesday, and spend three full days in south Florida. In addition to the Everglades, Biscayne National Park and Big Cypress National Preserve are in the area. In terms of hitting National Parks, south Florida was a great option. We are still dying to get to places like Acadia and Isle Royale, but February is not really the right time to go so far north. It is also worth mentioning that the Dry Tortugas is in the same area, but that requires an extensive amount of planning that we did not have time to pull off.

So the plan was to leave, as a family, on Wednesday, but mother nature threw us a nasty curve ball. Alyson and Clara went to San Antonio the weekend prior to visit Alyson’s mom, just in time for a freak winter storm that shut down most of Texas for almost an entire week. They were supposed to fly home on Sunday, but the flight got cancelled. The same continued for the next several days, constantly scheduling and rescheduling flights.

As Wednesday approached, we had to decide how to move forward. Instead of flying back to New Orleans, Alyson and Clara got flights into Miami. Unfortunately, they could not get there until Friday, but we decided that the rest of us should go and move forward with what we had planned.

Eileen, Jonathan and I landed on Wednesday night, picked up our rental car and drove to a Hampton Inn in Homestead, Florida, just outside of the Everglades. There are not a lot of places to stay within the park, but Homestead is really close by. On Wednesday morning, we got up early and headed into the park. The Everglades has multiple visitors centers, and our first stop was the Flamingo.

From here, we set out on a back country boat tour hosted by Flaming Adventures. This took us into the interior of the Everglades water ways, where we saw lots of birds, fish and a few crocodiles. It is worth noting that the Everglades is the only place on Earth where you can find both alligators and crocodiles.

That said, of all the things we did, I think we all agreed this was our least favorite. It was fun, but the way out and way back took the same route, and it got a little boring. However, once we got back to the visitors’ center, a ranger took us out to a spot in the marina where an 11 foot crocodile lives. Then he took us around the dock, where a mother and baby manatee were swimming. This is pretty much what we came for, so getting to see these rare American animals on Day 1 was fantastic.

That afternoon, we drove from the southern tip of the park all the way to the northern end, to Shark Valley. If you are wondering why it is called Shark Valley, as there are no sharks there, so is everyone else. Evidently, this watershed feeds into the Shark River, thus named by a Spanish conquistador due to all the bull sharks present at the time of arrival. It would far more aptly be named Gator Valley.

At the Shark Valley Visitors’ Center, the kids stamped their passports, and we hopped aboard the Shark Valley Tram Tour. This is a ranger led tour that goes along a 15 mile paved road deep into the heart of the Everglades. On the way out, the ranger assured us that we would see more gators on the way back, so there was no reason to stop for everyone.

She was spot on. On the way out, we probably saw half a dozen alligators, but we also spotted birds of probably thirty different species, and the ranger was able to educate us on all different aspects of the park.

At the half way point, there is an old tower that you can climb which offers a 360 degree view of the park. From this view, you cannot see a single building, just a see of grass as far as the eye can see. Out of everything we did, this moment was the most breath-taking.

On the back half of the loop, we probably spotted another thirty alligators, including a group of at least a dozen babies. You might not think it possible, but even alligator babies are cute.

That evening, the kids swam in the pool at our Hampton Inn, and we ate at a Chili’s. For this, I blame my wife. Had she not been stuck in Texas, she would have found a better option. I have discovered that I make the mistake of eating a Chili’s about every three years, and every three years, I remember why it has been so long.

On Day 2, we awoke early and headed for the western edge of the park, which borders the Gulf of Mexico. At this stage, my wife’s next flight, supposed to arrive that noon, had gotten cancelled, but the good news was that she was on a flight to Baltimore. From there, she was set to join us at about 10 pm in Miami.

In the meantime, we took another boat excursion called the Ten Thousand Island Tour. This adventure explored a vast set of islands, some that can be camped upon, off the west coast of Florida. The tour was far more quite exciting than that of the previous day. The guide was able to locate several dolphins, and after a few tries, succeeded in getting them to trail and flip in the wake of the boat. We also saw countless birds, including several Magnificent Frigatebirds and one Bald Eagle.

We ate lunch at the Island Cafe in Everglades City, which, to be frank, is nothing special. It was a Friday in Lent, and they had fried seafood, so it is hard to be too critical. From there, we drove back the way we came to one of the two Big Cypress Visitors’ Centers to get our passport stamps, and headed into the preserve.

It is hard to really mark a difference between the Everglades and Big Cypress, but I guess I can say that Big Cypress was less water and more passable land. That said, the are is quite swampy, and definitely distinct from the Glades in its own way.

In the early afternoon, we met a guide from Big Cypress Swamp Tours, who took us on a buggy tour through the park. This was the tour that I was looking forward to the most. We boarded a very unique, six-wheeled, two-story vehicle that rolled through the soggy, bumpy ‘paths’ checking out the local wildlife.

In addition to the guide being great, filled with great information and local color, we were able to see gators, birds, snakes and the ever-so-rare white-tailed deer. The guide also noted that he saw a black bear a few days prior, and in his six years, had seen a panther seven times. Having done a good bit of research, I cannot think of a better way to have experienced Big Cypress than this type of tour.

That night, we swam again and ate at Mamma Mia’s Pizza in Homestead. It wasn’t the greatest pizza I have ever had, but I have no complaints. And again, mozzarella sticks and cheese pizza hit the spot on a Friday night in Lent.

From there, we crossed our fingers and headed for the Miami airport. Lo and behold, only 45 minutes late, my wife and my 7 month old emerged from the baggage claim, and our family was together again. While Eileen, JR and I had been having fun, there was definitely something missing, and it was very gratifying to have our family made whole again.

We had one more day to make the most of our trip, and primarily, to give Alyson and Clara a good experience, one great day. After getting breakfast at the hotel, we headed for another of south Florida’s National Parks, Biscayne. This park is over 90% water, so we booked another boat tour, this one provided by the Biscayne National Park Institute. We took the Heritage of Biscayne Cruise, which took us to several different islands.

At the furthest end of the tour, we disembarked and toured an island with an old lighthouse, an old church, and a really cool, almost hidden trail. The island is called Boca Chita Key, and if you leave the recreation area and go behind the old garage, there is a semi-enchanted entrance to a really cool trail. Less than a 20 minute loop, there is a tiny, hidden beach that would be a great place for a picnic. As you progress, there’s a place where you have to cross an old, broken down bridge. You do have to get wet here, but it was fun, and an adventure that the big kids thought was really exciting.

From there, we headed back to the Everglades. This was not the initial plan, but since Clara and Alyson had not been to the park yet, we did not want to leave without giving them the experience. It was a bit of drive, but we decided to head back to the Flamingo Visitors’ Center to try to see the wildlife. We were lucky enough to see the big crock again, and this time, a whole herd of manatees.

Following that, we drove to the east end of the park to the two best walking trails available. We combined the Anhinga and Gumbo Limbo Trails, for about a total of 1.5 miles. These two trails were great, and really provide unique, well-rounded cross-sections of the Everglades.

On the way back to the hotel, we found the Miami Brewing Company. The beer was typical, and the food was nothing to go into detail about, but it was a great, relaxing way to end our vacation. We flew home the next day, and the long saga of getting my wife and infant out of Texas had finally come to an end.

For the National Park lovers our there, I highly recommend this trip, and if you have time, to add the Dry Tortugas. We plan to get there someday soon, it simply wasn’t in the cards for this trip. That aside, getting the full experience of the Everglades was great. This is a truly unique park that offers so multiple, startling ecosystems. I will say that it is not quite as awe-inspiring as the Grand Canyon or Yellowstone, but it is a piece of Americana that everyone should experience.

I also learned that a family vacation is not the same without the entire family. Eileen, JR and I were all just a little heartbroken that we were experiencing these parks without Alyson and Clara. I am really not sure what we can do differently in the future to keep this from happening, but hopefully, none of us will ever miss out on our family adventures again.

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Louis and Antonio: Saints for the Holidays

Those of you who follow us regularly know that while our Igoe family has lived in New Orleans for over ten years now, we have no family who live in the area. As such, we have become accustomed to traveling for the holidays. Thanksgiving and Christmas almost do not feel right when we celebrate at home by ourselves. This year was no different. On December 23rd, we hopped a Southwest flight to St. Louis and spent Christmas with my parents.

With the pandemic going strong, we all got tested before leaving, and even in St. Louis, we were more reserved than normal. Not wanting to unnecessarily expose my parents, we tried to refrain from doing anything that would include a large crowd. We arrived on a Wednesday, and on Thursday, Christmas Eve, we headed down to Union Station.

For those of you not familiar with Union Station, it is an old train depot that has been through many iterations. In fact, once as a child, I fell into a water feature in winter. It is a story my older brother loves to tell now, but at the time, it was quite unpleasant. At the moment, and hopefully for good, the station has been converted into an aquarium, amongst other things, and in terms of aquariums, we thought this one was fantastic.

It was basically an interactive tour with several really cool features. The kids got to feed turtles, have fish eat dead skin off their hands and pet sting rays. Having been to multiple aquariums over the years, I was pleasantly impressed.

What really makes Union Station great is that in addition to the aquarium, there is shopping, food and several other entertainment. There is a mirror maze and a London Eye-style Ferris wheel, as well as indoor ropes course. We decided forego the first two, but the kids loved the ropes course. There are two courses, based upon height, and Eileen and JR were both big enough for high course. Since JR is under 13, I had to go with him, but it was a lot of fun. There were several cool features, zip lines and overhangs, and it was a great way to finish the excursion.

On the way home, we stopped at a sandwich place The Hill called Joe Fassi’s. My biggest frustration with eating on The Hill in St. Louis is that we are never there long enough to try everything on the menu. I got a meatball sub which was arguably the best one I have ever had. My wife got a salami sandwich and both of the kids got turkey. To say that everything was good would be insulting to Joe’s. This place was so good that we almost went back two days later. If you are in St. Louis, and you want a great sandwich, nothing beats The HIll, and Joe Fassi’s is one of the best options.

The next day, being Christmas, we spent at home, opening presents, watching A Christmas Story and spending time with family. Saturday, we were back at it again. Recently, the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial was converted to the Gateway Arch National Park. We actually took the kids the year prior, but have been unable to find the picture we took of them at the sign.

This year, since we have a new edition, we decided to get a new picture and get Clara’s passport stamped. The Arch has a great museum about westward expansion and Lewis and Clark, and the ride to the top, while claustrophobic, is pretty cool. If you’re looking to explore a city and hit a National Park, St. Louis is a great option.

On the way home, we were forced to hit up The Hill again. This time we hit up Mama’s, one of the places that claims to be the creator of toasted ravioli. If you’ve never had t-ravs, they are basically breaded and fried raviolis, filled with meat and cheese. Why they are called toasted is a mystery, and why they taste so good is beyond me, but they might just be the best thing in the world. We also ordered a pizza, which in St. Louis comes with provel cheese, which again, is a must try.

That night, the whole family went to Garden Glow at the Botanical Garden. Every year, the garden puts up lights and installations that are really impressive. It is cold, but they sell hot chocolate and adult drinks, and the kids love the chance to make s’mores. The garden is really impressive during the day, but lit up at night for the holidays, this excursion is a can’t miss.

We flew home on Sunday, washed all of our clothes and jetted off to San Antonio to spend time with Alyson’s family. This trip was a bit shorter, and we spent most of the time in my in-laws house. We did find time to get outside and explore one of Texas’ many state parks. Because of the viral situation, passes to the parks have to be purchased in advance, and the only one close enough with an opening was Guadalupe River State Park.

I think this park is probably better during the summer, as the river looks very inviting, but we did find a great hike that went about a mile along the edge of the river and provided some really cool scenery. The kids were able to skip rocks, climb trees and overall, enjoy being outside.

On the way home, we ate at Little Gretel’s in Boerne, which is a really great German restaurant that had several options for the kids. Texas is such a big state, and the cities are so expansive that it can be hard to really plan. A good suggestion for one part of San Antonio may be 45 minutes from where you are going. That said, there is so much good stuff in Texas that if you look, you’ll be able to find something worthwhile.

We usually go to St. Louis and Texas at least once a year, and this 2020 was no exception. If you are going, even during COVID, as long as you plan, there are plenty of great things to be done.