For those of you that are reading regularly, and I know there are a lot, you are aware that during Mardi Gras in 2024, we visited both Death Valley National Park and Valley of Fire State Park (as well as the Hoover Dam, Lake Mead NRA and Vegas). For purposes of this blog, it made more sense to split the two valleys up, so this post is about our 24 hours or so in the Valley of Fire.
This state park is about an hour northeast of Vegas in Nevada and easily rivals most National Parks. In terms of breadth and scope, Death Valley is definitely more impressive, but in terms of what we actually did, I think the family preferred the Valley of Fire.
This geological wonderland contains petroglyphs, a wave, a slot canyon, petrified wood and so much more. It’s busy and parking can be limited, but it’s an easy trek from Vegas and great way to add an outdoors experience to your trip.
Where to Stay
We stayed on Overton, NV, which is right outside the park, at the North Shore Inn. The Inn is nothing special, but our rooms were clean, and the people are nice. This area is not very well developed, so there are not a lot of places to eat. We ate at a Mexican restaurant called La Fonda and a pizza place called Pirate’s Landing. Neither blew our minds, but when you’ve spent all day hiking and/or driving, a clean place to sit with nice people is all that’s really needed.
What to Do
Elephant Rock: This is one of the first attractions you’ll come across when you enter from the East entrance. There’s a parking lot and a short hike, although you don’t actually have to do the hike, as the Elephant is right along the street. That said, you are not actually allowed to climb the elephant, but if your kids are into bouldering, there are some great opportunities along this short trek.
Rainbow Vista: This trail is a 1 mile out-and-back and ends at a beautiful over look of the red rocks contrasted against the green mountains. It’s relatively easy and is a good introduction to the park.
Seven Wonders Trail: This loop is about two miles and is one of the most popular in the park. About halfway in, you’ll reach the Fire Wave, which is similar to the Wave you’ve likely seen on InstaFace, just to a smaller extent. Without the wave, which is about a mile in, the hike would still be worth it, as the entire expanse is quite impressive. I recommend going clockwise, as you’ll go down the steeper part and walk back up far more gradually.
White Domes Trail: This 1.2-mile loop is at the end of the park and is also quite popular. It takes you through a short slot canyon. It is nowhere near as impressive as something like Antelope Canyon, but for the short time that you’re in it, it is very cool.
Atlatl Rock: This rock is cool in that a staircase has been built into it so you can walk up and see the petroglyphs. I am not one who finds petroglyphs super impressive; if you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. Frankly, it is hard for me to distinguish between protected art and graffiti, but the rock itself is pretty cool, and in order to fill a day, you’ll need to include this. You can also stop at the beehive rocks in your way out of this area.
Fire Canyon: This is more of a drive than a hike, but it offers a really unique view of the Valley from just outside of the parking lot. Following the advice of one of the park rangers, this is where watched the sunset, and it was quite lovely.
What We Learned
We loved this park, and in a lot of way, it’s more impressive than several of the National Parks which we have visited. That is something to keep in mind, especially when headed to the Southwest. There are a lot of great things you can find without much difficulty of you take the time to look around. One full day is certainly enough to hit all the important parts of this park.
Next up, JR and I are headed to Jacksonville for his first concert (Fall Out Boy). We probably won’t post about, but you never know…
Those of you paying super close attention will note that this is actually two separate blog entries, one for Death Valley and one for Valley of Fire. We actually visited these over the same trip, as well as see Hoover Dam, the Lake Mead National Recreation Area and a Golden Knights games, but for the purposes of this blog, I think it is easier to separate the two Valleys into their own posts.
Over the Mardi Gras break this year, we decided to take the kids out west, again, to see one of the country’s lesser visited National Parks. Death Valley is a below-sea-level basin in constant drought that records summer heat extremes higher than anywhere else in North America.
It takes about two hours to get there from Vegas and is legitimately in the middle of nowhere. Our arrival time was well into the dark of night, which was actually pretty spectacular, as the star-scape is pretty unreal.
We did a lot of planning to figure out exactly how much time we needed, and we settled on basically two full days. I believe one full day could have been enough, and I believe we could have filled more time on a third day, but for us, 36-48 hours seemed like the sweet spot.
Where to Stay:
We stay at The Ranch is Death Valley, which is also associated with the Oasis. This is a great resort. We had a two room cabin that easily slept five and access to all sorts of amenities. The Ranch has a golf course, spring-fed pool that is warm year round, two restaurants, horseback riding, a general store, a museum, a playground, oh, and wifi.
The resort alone makes it worth it to stay a few days. That said, the restaurants are pretty expensive, and the food is more than pretty mediocre. I’d give the resort itself 5-stars with an addendum, giving the restaurants 2. That said, there aren’t a lot of alternatives in the area, so options are limited.
The Ranch is in the Furnace Creek area, which is more or less centrally located. There is another area, which is even more central, that one can stay, called Stovepipe Wells, but it is not nearly as quaint.
What to Do:
Horseback Ride: The Ranch offers several rides into the park, including sunrise and sunset. We did a sunrise tour and frankly, it was kind of a disappointment. The ride was fine, and the views were great, but I can’t say that it was really worth the effort.
Zabriski Point: This is a great introductory overlook into the vastness of Death Valley. It is an easy walk up from a parking lot and the views of the colored hills are pretty impressive.
Badwater Basin: This is the lowest point in North America and is why most people come. The drive takes about half an hour and is definitely worth it. You reach a basin that occasionally has an inch of water in it that you can walk out on; it gives the appearance of walking on water. At this stage in 2024, there was actually far more water than normal, due to Hurricane Sandy, so it actually wasn’t as impressive as we’d hoped. There were several areas though where we could walk out onto the salt flats, which is why we came.
Devils Golf Course: This is a really interested formation of rock and salt that would be an awful place to try to play golf. There is a road down that leads to a parking lot, but during our trip, the road was closed (it’s not clear why), so it was a 2 mile out-and-back to see anything of interest. I am not actually sure this is worth the walk, but the ‘golf course’ itself is pretty interested.
Gold Canyon Hike: The way we did this hike was from the Golden Canyon parking lot, and was about 4.5 miles. There are several intersecting trails that can make it far shorter or far longer, depending on what you want to do a see. The walk through the canyons and up the mountains is amazing, but strenuous. I recommend going clockwise, as you get the toughest section done in the first two miles and get to enjoy or more leisurely pace as you see the golden hills contrasted against the red and green rocks.
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes: There is an unusual, almost out-of-place, set of sand dunes near the Stovepipe Wells area, which is about half an hour from furnace creek. It is a popular place to watch the sunset, but there are so many dunes that it is easy to find your own personal dune to watch the god-flame set.
Ubehebe Crater: The crater is a solid hour-plus drive from the main areas of the park, but it is worth it. One of the interesting things about this NP is the varying topography, and the fact that a giant volcanic crater is part of the mix is pretty cool. You can drive up to it and hike all the way around for some cool views. I am not sure the hike is necessary, but it is a lovely area.
Mosaic Canyon: This is another worthwhile hike, about 3 miles out and back. It is uphill on the way in, but the grade is not too severe. I recommend it, but if you are pressed for time, the best parts of the hike are in the first half to full mile, so if you don’t make it all the way until the end, you won’t be missing out on much.
What We Didn’t Do:
Dante’s View: Unfortunately, this part of the park was closed due to recent flooding, but I understanding the view to be pretty impressive. That said, it sounds very similar to Zabriski Point, so I am not too devastated at having missed it.
20 Mule Team Canyon: This is supposed to be a very scenic drive in an historic area, but again was closed, due to recent flooding.
Artist’s Drive/Palette: This being closed was a real disappointment. It is supposed to be the best place to view the varying colors of the rock formations, ideally about an hour prior to sunset. It was a good learning experience for the kids, that sometimes things happen that you can’t change, and there are plenty of other places to see rocks a shockingly unusual color, but not getting to see it did suck.
Racetrack Playa: This was actually open, but we made the conscious decision not to go. The turn-off for the Racetrack is at the Ubehebe Crater parking lot, but says that it requires a high-clearance, 4-wheel drive vehicle. I have heard that most SUVs can handle it, and I think ours could have, but you are an awfully long way from nothing, with no cell service, if something goes wrong. This is the area where you can see the rocks apparently move on their own. If we ever go back, I think we’ll try to get a better car, but for this time around, oh well.
What We Learned
It depends on what you want to do, but Death Valley can be done pretty well in just a day. That said, if we really dived into what the The Ranch has to offer, I think we could have stayed there for three or four. I would definitely recommend getting a car that can handle the Racetrack Playa drive, which can be rented in the Furnace Creek area if needed.
I do not think I will be putting DV in my top 10 National Parks, and frankly, it might actually be towards the bottom, but the family and I had a great time. It is definitely something every Parks fan should see and given the opportunity, I would definitely go again.
The second part of our trip took place in another valley (of Fire). Take a look at our next post for more information about this incredible State Park.
This year for America’s favorite holiday, the Igoes again avoided sitting around in either St. Louis or San Antonio with our families and instead head west for beautiful Arizona. This was our third trip to the Grand Canyon state, and third different location we visited, which makes us think that perhaps we should just move to Arizona.
That not withstanding, we flew into Phoenix and drove north two hours to Sedona. Something to be kept in mind is that at certain times of day and year, this drive can take far longer than it seems it should, due to heavy traffic and narrow lanes, so please plan accordingly.
We rented in a house on the Oak Village area of Sedona, large enough for my extended family of parents and three brothers. The house was amazing, and in a fine location, but there are some takeaways that we will touch on towards the end.
Phoenix to Sedona
On our way up, we stopped at a few places to kill some time before we were able to check into the VRBO:
Montezuma Castle: This is a National Historic Site that is basically on your route, in the Verde area. It is a pretty interesting cliff dwelling, but aside from that, there isn’t a ton to see or do. It’s less than a half mile round trip to see the dwelling, and you can’t actually enter the dwelling. It’s pretty interesting, and there’s a passport stamp that can be obtained, but I think we spent no more than an hour there.
Verde Brewing Company: We ate lunch at a small, kind of underdeveloped brewery in Verde. The food was fine, as was the beer, but honestly, it was nothing special. On our way to our next stop, we went through the town of Cottonwood, which, in retrospect, is where we should have stopped for lunch. The town is adorable, and there is a lot there, including a brewery.
Tuzigoot National Monument: This adobe is another NPS are not too far off the route to Sedona, especially if you do stop in Cottonwood. We actually enjoyed this site more than Montezuma, I think. It’s a nice, short hike up a hill to a beautiful vista. The adobe is mostly recreation at this point, but it is still pretty fun to walk around, and yes, you can get your passport book stamped.
Sedona (Can’t Miss)
We did everything maximize the time we had in Sedona, only 3+ days, so below, I have chronicled the things that we did, how we did them, and why we would do them again.
Devil’s Bridge: This is one of the most popular hikes in Sedona, and thus, requires arriving early. We got to the parking lot at about 7:15 am and had no trouble getting a space. When we left about two hours later, the lot was full. There are several ways to do this trail, including taking a Pink Jeep tour or high clearance vehicle to a spot 1 mile shy of the bridge. Barring this, I recommend the Mescal Trailhead. From here, the round trip is about 4 miles, and the entire hike up is breathtaking. There are other options, but none which offer such a beautiful approach.
A few things about this trail to remember. If you take the Mescal Trail head, the first mile+ is relatively flat and easy, and then there’s a bit of rock scrambling towards the end. When you reach the top, the views are amazing and bridge is very unique. That said, even that early in the morning, we had to wait in line at the top of the bridge to get the Instagram-worthy picture that my 16 year-old (and every one else in Sedona) wanted.
Subway Cave: This was my favorite of the hikes we did, but also, an extremely popular Sedona experience. We arrived at about 8 am and no trouble parking, but by the time we left at around 11, the lot and trail were packed. This trail can be a bit difficult to identify, as it is actually called the Boynton Canyon trail, which has its own termination point. Basically, about two miles in, you take a right at the ‘Alligator Tree’ and go another quarter of the mile, over several fallen trees, to a great cave and Native American ruins. If you are using All Trails, it shows were to take the turn. If not, you can follow the crowds or look out for the Alligator Tree, although I did not find it as distinct as others had described.
The two mile approach is beautiful and mostly flat. Once you take the right turn, it gets narrower, and the end is definitely a climb. I did it with a three year old attached to me, so it is certainly doable. I recommend going up into the Subway Cave using the ‘slide’ on the right. After you get your picture, take the turn around to the right of the cave and check out the ruins. This part is just as impressive, and there is another way down that allows you to avoid the traffic coming up. If you have the time and the will to get to this trail early, I couldn’t recommend it more strongly.
Soldier Pass/Seven Sacred Pools: In order to access this popular Sedona site, it is necessary to take the Sedona Shuttle to the trailhead. Instead, we took a guide tour offered be West Sedona Jeep Tours. There are plenty of options, and all worth the time. We were able to book three separate Jeeps to accommodate our entire group, and were able to tour this area in about two hours.
The bumpy, thrilling jeep ride took us first to the Seven Sacred Pools, followed by Soldier Cave. It was nice for the whole family to get to participate. Several of the hikes we did were without the larger group, and for a few, my mom (70) stopped once the rock scrambling began. The tour group was great and payoff was certainly worth it.
Birthing Cave: Another popular location, this site is a bit easier to park at, and is less than two miles, round-trip. Much like the rest of Sedona, the approach is mostly flat with a rock scramble to the top. The view from the Birthing Cave is really impressive, but you are likely to have to wait in line to get the shot that you want. I also found some of the online photos of this area misleading. It is not a through-and-through hole in the mountain (arch). There is definitely a back wall, with a little cove, from where you can get great pictures. My daughter got herself into the cove and successfully birthed back out for a great photo.
Fey Canyon/Arch: This hike is actually not nearly as well-traveled as some of the others. We were turned onto it by our Jeep guides, and for the most part, had the trail to ourselves. The hike is similar to Devil’s Bridge, in that it ends on and arch that you can ascend. It is not quite as stand-alone as Devil’s Bridge, but it was my daughter’s favorite part of our trip.
Again, the hike is not long, and there is a scramble at the end. I suggest that on the approach, though, you are vigilant, as the turn off to the scramble to the arch is actually not all that obvious, so keep an eye on your trail map.
West Fork Trail: This trail was billed as something similar to The Narrows in Zion, but frankly, it was kind of a disappointment. On the north end of Sedona, this trail which requires $12 to be accessed, winds along the West Fork River and crosses in several places. Out and back, I believe it is about 7 miles.
The scenery is lovely, but it does not compare to The Narrows. I should mention that the baby was acting like a psycho at the time, so we didn’t make it to the end, which is supposed to be the best part. Your experience might be different, but of all the things we did, I would put this at the bottom of the list.
Bell Rock: This short, but steep hike is one of the main attractions in the southern half of Sedona. The ‘trail’ is less than a mile up, but it is relatively undefined, and is mostly a rock scramble. This is a great area to take in panoramic views of the sunset. Parking is free and does not require the shuttle, but can be kind of difficult. Bell Rock is a great spot and offers something for hikers of all ages and skill levels.
Castle Rock: Castle Rock is one of the most popular destinations in Sedona. In order to access it on weekends, you have to take the Sedona Shuttle. Early in the day, this is quick and easy but as the day lengthens and traffic worsens, the shuttle can take some time.
If at all possible, you’ve got to climb Castle Rock. It is not particularly dissimilar to Bell Rock, but I thought the views were better, and the sunset is pretty amazing.
Chapel of the Holy Cross: Regardless of your religious affiliation, this Catholic Church, cut into the side of the mountain, is pretty cool. I recommend going early, as the crowds get intense, but even then, it is worth it. It is an active Church, so it is important to be respectful, but if at all possible, I recommend a quick visit.
For Next Time:
I thought Sedona was amazing; I would love to visit again. If possible, I would choose to go at a less busy time; Thanksgiving is very popular, but I suppose that is the nature of the beast. Traffic getting from the Oak Village area (south) to North Sedona and West Sedona can take quite sometime in the middle of the day.
If we were choosing where to stay again, I think I would pick the north area. Most of the hikes we really wanted to do were North and West, as well as most of the restaurants and shops. Bell and Castle Rock are both on the south side, but aside from that, we spent most of our time elsewhere.
What I wish I had known prior to our last day is that from the south side of Sedona, there are trails that allow you to access things like Castle Rock from a different approach. We learned this by taking a few wrong turns and getting advice from a local. There is a street called Verde Valley School Rd. If you follow this until it becomes a dirt road and keep going, you will come to a few parking lots that access several trails, including ones that can be put together to get you to Castle Rock. By the time we discovered this, it was too late to really take advantage, but next time around, this is where we’ll start.
Not sure what’s next for us. Christmas is in San Antonio, and after that, there is talk of Costa Rica, or maybe the Virgin Islands, but we’ll be back on the trail soon. I’ll keep you posted…
This year, for Fall Break, in addition to a short trip to Harpers Ferry and college tour for Eileen, they family and I spent basically 48 hours in Shenandoah National Park. If you’re asking whether or not this is adequate time, I think the answer is probably no. There were definitely things that we would’ve like to have done but couldn’t squeeze in
If you are wondering whether two days is enough time to get a good feel for the park and really enjoy it, then the answer is definitely yes.
Just 75 miles from the bustle of Washington, D.C., Shenandoah National Park is a land bursting with cascading waterfalls, spectacular vistas, fields of wildflowers, and quiet wooded hollows. With over 200,000 acres of protected lands that are haven to deer, songbirds, and black bear, there’s so much to explore. We started at the North end of the park, at the Dickey Ridge Visitors Center and made our way south along the Skyline Drive.
The park is basically bisected by this drive, with plenty of things to do along the way. It is also surrounded by multiple small towns that offer various other activities.
Hikes
Bearfence Loop Trail: This 1.4 mile loop is one of the most popular trails in the park, not without reason. The way up involves several strenuous rock scrambles. It was quite difficult with a 3 year old strapped in, but we made it. We did it later in the day, which gave us a great view of the sunset, but it can be, and was at the time, extremely windy. Most of the other people on the trail turned back and scrambled back down, but it is actually easier if you keep going. The decent along a portion of the Appalachian Trail is quite mild. Alltrails was very helpful in this respect, as I am not sure it was clear to all that this trail is actually a loop.
Dark Hollow Falls: This is another great trail, and 1.5 miles out-and-back. Again, very popular, the way down to the falls is quite steep, so be prepared for a tough trek back up. When you reach the end, the payoff is solid, but honestly, not great. If you are hoping for a massive cascade, I think you’ll be disappointed. In terms of falls, I would put this at a 5 or 6/10, but the trail is definitely worth taking.
Excursions
Luray Caverns: We actually stayed in Luray, which is about halfway down Skyline Drive. In Luray, there is really cool set of caves that you can tour at your leisure. I love a good cave, and this one does not disappoint. That said, I recommend getting to the caves right when they open. They are very popular, which can lead to traffic jams inside the caves themselves. This area is well-developed, with several other things to do, including a ropes course that all three of our kids enjoyed.
Rafting: We took a trip with the Shenandoah River Outfitters. It was self-guided but very well marked. It was a little cold to be on the water in the fall, but our portion of the river was mild to the point that we didn’t really get wet. This company offers multiple options with vary degrees of difficulty, and we chose what we did as it allowed our 3 year old to participate.
Ziplining: Our kids love a good zip, and we made a reservation with Bear Mountain Ziplines. The tour included 7 zips, and for those of you experienced, it is the type that involves hand-breaking. Of the zips we’ve done, I wouldn’t put this in the top 5, but everyone had a lot of fun.
Horseback Riding: We actually didn’t get to ride this trip, due to my daughter’s college tour, but there are a few outfitters that will take you into the park itself. One, Mountaintop Ranch, will even let you go tandem with a little one.
Lodging/Food
Luray: We stayed in a VRBO in Luray, which was about 20 minutes from one of the park entrances. I recommend this only if you are unable to get lodging in the park. The lodging within is quite limited, so this is a good back-up option, but if you are planning well in advance, you are much better off within the friendly confines.
Elkwallow Wayside: This shop does not offer any lodging options, but is a must-stop. It is along the Skyline Drive and a regular stop for those hiking the Appalachian Trail. We ate lunch here, smash burgers from the grill, and stocked up on a few supplies for the house. The food is good, and the ambiance is unbeatable.
Skyland: This is one of the two main lodges in the park, and it has a restaurant and tap room. Of the two, we preferred this lodge less. The tap room is really just an offshoot of the restaurant with the same menu, and our wait was about an hour. That said, it was a nice place to sit and watch the sunset, and the food was fine. If it had availability, I would have been happy to stay in the Skyland Lodge, but if both had availability, I would definitely prefer Big Meadows.
Big Meadows Wayside: Big Meadows is the further south lodge, and I believe a little smaller. It feels a lot more quint, and their tap room is completely separate. This is where we ate, and the food and atmosphere were terrific. This was one of my favorite nights in the park.
If you’re heading to Shenandoah NP, there is a enough to do to fill a week. If possible, plan ahead and try to stay inside the park. I think you’ll be much happier that you did.
The Igoes have finally answered one of the world’s great questions: can Harpers Ferry be fully appreciate in just half a day? The answer is unequivocally no.
For fall break this year, including a college visit in DC, and a NP visit in Virginia, we decided to check WV off the list for all the Igoes who aren’t writing this blog. I have been several times, primarily driving to and from UVA with my dad and brother, but none of the rest of us had.
You may or may not be aware that a new NP exists in West Virginia, New River Gorge, but our youngest isn’t old enough for most of the river excursions, so we took the next best option, which, for me, is Harpers Ferry.
This beautiful historic site is tucked into the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers, and has extensive historical significance, from John Brown’s abolitionist movement to a munitions hub during the Civil War. The area is beautifully maintained and a lovely place to spend a few hours.
That said, we probably could have put together two or three days here, especially without the kids. There are a lot of places to eat, a lot of mini-museums and a whole lot to see.
Things to Do:
Jefferson Rock: Getting to this feature of Harpers Ferry is a fun trek. You go up a set of old stone steps, past a Catholic Church that’s been there for year but is still in operation, to a beautiful look out that Thomas Jefferson noted as one of the most wonderful places he’d seen. You get a great view of the valley and both rivers. It is not a strenuous journey, and for me, is the best reason to go.
The Point: This feature is also a view of the confluence of the two rivers. It’s definitely worth seeing, and is only a few minutes off the main thoroughfares as you wander around town.
Appalachian Trail: America’s great hiking trail passes directly through Harpers Ferry, and you’ll have the opportunity to walk over the river alongside a train track that is very nostalgic and very unique. This was my favorite view of the area and shouldn’t be missed.
What We Didn’t Do:
There are several satellite areas of the National Historic Site that we didn’t have time to visit, and just about every restaurant looks great and has a John Denver-based name. I felt like we could have easily spent a long weekend in the park, and loved it. There might not have been a ton more for the kids to do, but as a couple, I think we would make a really nice getaway spot.
After our exhausting trip with Alyson’s family to four fabulous Hawai’ian islands, which we thankfully left prior to the wildfires, you might think that we’d be ready to relax, and you would be right. It was not to be, for less than a month later, we set off with the extended side of my family for a trip to another of the country’s least visited states, Maine.
Getting to and from Maine is no easy task, especially the part to which we were headed, Acadia. We actually ended up flying in and out of Providence late on a Saturday, where we spent the night. We woke early the next morning, and added about an hours drive to our trips by driving into Putnam, CT, where we got breakfast The Painted Baker.
You might ask yourself, was this detour really worth it, considering one could just fly into Portland, ME? Well, much like Obi-wan’s explanation for the existence of Luke’s father, it depends on your point of view. Certainly this took us longer, although it was cheaper, but it also allowed us to visit Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts and New Hampshire. While I had already been through all of the Northeast, not everyone else in my family was in the same boat, and checking off New England is no easy task. Not for nothing, the breakfast at the Painted Baker was pretty fantastic.
The rest of the day found us in the car making our way to Acadia National Park, and our VRBO in Northeast Harbor. The house we got was perfectly acceptable, aside from the live mouse we found in a mousetrap, but I should warn that recently, almost every house we’ve gotten hasn’t quite lived up to the pictures on the internet. Be sure to read the comments thoroughly and temper your expectations.
My entire immediate family was presents, so our plans had to be catered to many different age and ability levels. We have come to the conclusion that on these types of vacations, the thing to do is make your own plans for the day, and then all get together for dinner at night. Everything we did, we invited whomever was interested, and sometimes we have company, sometimes we didn’t. This way, we didn’t miss out on anything we wanted to do, and weren’t always on our own, but had plenty of time to hit all of our highlights.
For the purposes of this blog and readability, I am going to try a different format, listing the things we did, the places we went, and how we felt about them, instead of going in a more narrate format. Let’s see how it goes:
Hikes:
Great Head Trail: This 1.4 mile loop, I believe, was my favorite of the trip. There are two different trail heads, one with a parking lot and another at the Sand Beach. Frankly, it was not all that easy to find, but once we found it, it was worthwhile. I recommend going clockwise from the beach, and about halfway through, making your way down to a large stone outcropping at the beach. We were completely alone for about half an hour watch the waves crash in. You have to figure this part out for yourself, as it is slightly off trail, but it is very much worth it.
Duck Harbor Trail: This trail is on Isle au Haut, a much less visited portion of the park. I suggest you make time to get over there. We took the ferry and exited at the Town Landing, where there is a ranger station and shop. The whole family made this trek, about 4 miles in all, down to Duck Harbor, where the ferry picked us back up. Be sure you come prepared with water and food, as there is little development here. And be sure to plan it for a whole day, as getting back and forth is reliant upon the boat schedule. This hike is not super strenuous in terms of elevation, but it is a solid trek, so be prepared with older or younger participants.
Beehive Trail: Certainly, when researching Acadia, you will come across this trail, as well as the Precipice Trail (which was closed during our visit due to falcon nesting). This is a can’t miss, but definitely requires some level of physical fitness. It includes a lot of climbing and rock scrambling. We left the younger kids with the grandparents, none of whom would have done too well. We went early, as this trail gets crowded, and their was still a back-up a the top, primarily due to an overweight, older human overestimating his abilities. This is an incredible hike, a ton of fun, and must do. Our 11 year old had no difficulty.
Ship Harbor Trail: This trail, on the west side of the park, in Southwest Harbor, was a lot of fun. It was a little rocky, but flat throughout. My 70 year old parents joined us on this hike, and while they were a bit slower, they managed without difficulty. This is less than 2 miles round trip, offers great rocky ocean expanses and plenty of opportunities to explore multiple, colorful tide pools. The kids also discovered several inland areas perfect for skipping rocks, something that has evidently become one of their favorite past times.
The Bubble: The North and South Bubbles trails overlook Acadia and Jordan Pond, and are definitely worth your time. Both Bubbles can be approached from the same trailhead, and if you go left to being with, you will summit the South Bubble and end at Bubble Rock, which is pretty impressive. Do not fear, an entire football team tried to push this rock over, but it won’t budge. If you don’t mind back tracking, you can then find the approach up the North Bubble, which leads to a beautiful view of the park. We stopped at the peak, which made the trail about 1.5 miles, but it goes on for quite some time.
Raven’s Nest: This is one of the hidden gems in Acadia, and hard to even find information about online. It’s a great stop along the road around the Schoodic Peninsula. In order to find it, you have to park in the third pull off on the left, once you’ve started the drive. To be clear, it is not the third pull off overall, but the third one on the left side of this one way road. Once you park, take the unmarked trail across the road down to the coast, where you’ll find incredible views and amazing sites. It’s hard to find, but don’t skip this.
Restaurants:
Side Street Cafe: This adorable, quintessential Maine cafe is, as you would expect, off the beaten path in Bar Harbor. We sat outside, with a nice view of the area, and had a terrific meal. There was something for everyone, including a lobster roll, a lobster mac and a lobster melt. Prepare yourself that everything in Maine is expensive, but this was a great option and very kid friendly. The waiter was also very helpful in providing us with several viable hiking options.
Bar Harbor Beer Works: This was actually a harbor of last resort for us. We were wandering around Bar Harbor on a Friday, and the city was packed. Every place we checked out had an hour+ wait, but the Beer Works didn’t open until noon, and as we were the first ones in, there was no wait. The fare was classic beer/bar food, with a pretzel for JR, fish and chips for me, etc. We ate there with my parents, and while it wasn’t the best meal I had on vacation, it was a great stop for what we were doing.
Colonel’s Restaurant and Bakery: Some member of my family ate at this establishment at least once/day. It was within walking distance to our VRBO and serves all four meals, plus a bar. The breakfast is great; bagel sandwiches, donuts, etc. They have wonderful pizzas, salads and sandwiches, and the full bar was a lot of fun on Friday night.
Bunker’s Seafood and Spirits: Bunker’s (who doesn’t have a website) is a nice little waterfront restaurant at the end of the Schoodic Island road. This little visited part of the park is beautiful and remote, and this restaurant with standard (expensive) fare, is a perfect way to cap off your trip.
Fish Net: This adorable little lobster pound really hit the spot on our way back from Isle Haut. For those not familiar, the term ‘pound’ simply means shack or shop or house; basically, a place to get lobsters. There was plenty of outdoor seating, and plenty of good food. I recommend hitting as many pounds, and adding as many pounds, as you can.
Excursions:
Bar Harbor: No trip to Acadia would be complete without a visit to Bar Harbor. On the Northeast side of the main island, this area is touristy, but offers a lot. There are many interesting looking restausrants, shops and tour groups. It is definitely worth your time, but for me, not that much of it.
Sea Prince Boat Tour: There are multiple different boat tour options around Acadia that offer varying experiences. You should definitely do some research beforehand to find the one that best serves your group. We found one that left near our house, and that was less than two hours, which was perfect for the kids. It took us out on the water where got to see porpoises and seals, and learn a lot about the history, and the present, of the area.
Carriages of Acadia: There is a stable within the park that offers carriage rides along the carriage roads. This honestly wasn’t the most exciting part of our trip, but it is a fun way to see the interior of the park and learn a lot about its history.
Cadillac Mountain: You can hike this mountain, if you like, or drive to the summit. Driving requires reservations during peak season, which can only be obtained at certain times in advance on reservations.gov. We got a pass for a sunrise drive, which required getting up at about 4 am. Eileen loves a sunrise though, so we couldn’t miss it. Cadillac Mountain’s claim to fame is that it’s the first sunrise in the continental US, which is pretty cool. Unfortunately, it was super overcast during our visit, so the sunrise wasn’t all that spectacular, but I am still glad that we went.
Thunder Hole: This is an interesting and always crowded part of Acadia NP. It’s basically a narrow inlet into which the tide crashes in, creating a thunderous sound. The best time to visit is 2 hours prior to high tide, but it is always pretty cool. When we were there, we never heard anything that I would equate to thunder, but the spray from the surf was pretty epic at times. It is very crowded, and along a path that leads to other interesting areas, but it’s also basically just a sidewalk. I recommend trying for a spot in the parking lot, as the rest of it might not be super worth it.
Jordan Pool House: It was hard to decide whether this is a trail, a restaurant or an excursion, but it is worth your time. I suggest calling ahead and making a reservation for early afternoon. We arrived at around 2 pm and walked the loop around Jordan Pond, about 3 miles. While there are few elevation changes, this trail is still strenuous, but very rewarding. Afterwards, we grabbed our table at the Pool House for popovers (the kids’ were covered with ice cream) and a few beers. It was a great way to spend an afternoon.
Our trip, which last most of a week, was a lot of fun. We could have filled two or three more days without repeating anything. The few must do’s are the Beehive and a boat tour. If at all possible, I strongly recommend getting to both Isle au Haut and Schoodic, which are far less crowded as the main island a quite beautiful. Next up for us, as far as I know, is our yearly Labor Day trip to Gulf Shores.
Our last day was spent in Honolulu, a place that I hope to never visit again. Our hotel, the Hilton Hawai’ian Garden was great, but it could have been anywhere. We did drive to the Northshore, which was pretty, but this was mostly throw away time.
I just want to leave our four loyal readers with a few afterthoughts based upon our trip in general. Given the opportunity, I would take this cruise again, and given the opportunity, I would visit Hawai’i again. That said, I do not think either are trips that I would plan myself. We all had great experiences, but it wasn’t amazing to the point that I am jonesing to go back.
If you are taking this boat specifically, I would recommend not spending the extra money on the upgraded dining experiences. The food was good, but not that much better than the free options. I would recommend upgrading to include the alcohol package. You have to drink a lot each day to make it worthwhile, but it was so much easier to not have to worry about how much we were spending. And, the package included gratuity.
If possible, I would recommend not staying on the 8th floor. There was nothing wrong with our rooms, but the view is obscured a bit by the emergency rafts. I would also recommend bringing magnetic hooks. The bathrooms have very few, but these hooks will stick to the door and make it a lot easier to dry your towels and swimming suits.
I think my single biggest take away would be to recommend skipping any of the included excursions, if at all possible. The much better option for us was renting a car at each port and creating the experiences for yourself. Every rental car pick-up spot was less than a 20 dollar cab ride from the port, and if there are several of you, this is a far more affordable option. We had much more fun driving around ourselves than we did on any of the planned trips.
If you’re on the fence about to see Hawai’i, this cruise is a great option. It certainly isn’t perfect, but there aren’t many better ways to get to all four islands. Everyone was very friendly, everything was very clean and everyone in our group had a great time.
Next up, we have a very brief break before heading up to Maine and Acadia.
On Day 7, we woke up at a port on Kauia called Nawiliwili and stayed there for two days. This was an amazing part of our trip, with lots a cool sites and some of my favorite experiences. We initially planned a hiking excursion through the boat, but they had to cancel it, so we went out on our own.
We rented a car, for two days this time, and headed out onto the island. Our first stop was a bucket list item for Eileen, to take surfing lessons. We found local guides who offered lessons outside of a great beach near a Sheraton, of all places, that guaranteed that the kids would get up on the board.
This was a great experience, and the guides did not disappoint. Both of the kids got up on their first try, and while it was a lot of work, especially for JR, they both had a great time. We tooled around the beach for a while, then headed back the direction that we’d come. We took the scenic route on the way back, and if you have your own car, this is something I highly recommend. The unplanned parts of the adventure are often the best parts of the trip.
That night, we went to a luau put on the by Norwegian Cruise lines. They roasted a whole pig, had all sorts of performers and put on a fine show. That said, this was probably my least favorite part of the whole trip. I get that a luau is something you ‘have to do’ in Hawai’i, and it is interesting, but I feel like our time could have been much better spent doing almost anything else. Oh, and it was expensive as shit…
The next day, we met up with a company called, Smith’s, that offers multiple Hawai’i-specific adventures (including a luau), for a trip upriver to fern grotto. This grotto is pretty remarkable, with overhanging walls that feature ferns that grow upside down. We enjoyed this tour, and I would definitely do it again, but of the things we did, I wouldn’t put it in my top 10.
That afternoon, we drove up to the Napoli Coast, which is a must see along the coast of Kauai. It is beautiful, and extraordinarily unique to this island. If you have the time, don’t skip out on this.
Nawiliwili was our last stop before heading back to Honolulu, so the best part of our trip had unfortunately come to an end. It was a great trip, and I would recommend it. Stay tuned for one more post about Hawai’i, and what you can do to maximize your stay on this specific boat.
We actually arrived early in Kahalui due to a minor medical emergency involving a member of the crew. It was nothing too serious, and this actually worked out in our best interest, as we were able to leave the boat early.
Rather than go to the buffet, the family and I sat down for a quick breakfast at the Cadillac Diner. If you are on this exact same boat, this is a great option, 24 hours/day. The menu is limited, but the food is good, comes out quickly, and it is rarely crowded.
Prior to embarking on this cruise, we did as much research as we could, and rather than pay $200/person for the Road to Hana excursion, we decided to rent a car ourselves and plunge into the journey. Most of the port stops were only a $20 cab ride to the nearest airport, and Kahalui was no exception. We picked up a rental car ourselves and set out upon one of the country’s most beautiful drives.
The road to Hana is over 40 miles but takes almost two hours one-way, due to how winding and narrow it is, often times going down to one lane. There are dozens of stops that one could make along the way, so you have to decide what are your priorities. For us, we decided to drive all the way to the end, past Hana, where you meet the Haleakala National Park. We did this first because this portion of the park has an amazing 4 mile out-and-back trail called Pipiwai, just adjacent to the Oheo Pools, two of the parks more incredible features.
This trail is mostly uphill on the way out, and more than a bit strenuous, but if you have the opportunity, it is a can’t-miss. After you pass through an eerie bamboo forest that feels alive, you’ll get an incredible view of a waterfall that reaches up to the sky. The Road to Hana is littered with waterfalls, but for me, the one at the end of the Pipiwai is number one.
As we started our way back down the Hana road, we stopped at the Hana Ranch Restaurant. Maui is very proud of their beef, and after two hours of hiking, this really hit the spot. It’s expensive, but the view alone is worth the price.
Our next stop on the way back to the boat was Waiʻānapanapa State Park, which features a unique lava tube and an amazing black sand beach. This was the highlight for the bigger kids. The black sand beach is a nice, protected little cove, but it features really large waves. Getting into the park requires a reservation ahead of time ($30), and sine we were certain of our timing, we actually booked two different slots. My favorite stop along Hana was definitely the hike, but for JR and Eileen, it was this beach.
We made two additional stops on the way back: Twin Falls and Ho’okipa Beach. Twin Falls is an impressive tiered waterfall that offers a great place to cliff dive. Ho’okipa is a red sand beach that was littered with snoozing sea turtles. Both, to me, are must-sees, and both were spots that the whole family enjoyed.
All said, the Road to Hana was one of our favorite parts of the trip. The drive alone through the amazing foliage is worthwhile and there are countless places to stop. The four we made were right up our alley, but if we went back and did it again, I feel like we could fill the ride with a completely different set of sights.
The day had been a long one, so we returned the car, ate at the Alamo Cafe (the buffet on the Pride of America) and went to be in preparation for Day 4.
The next day brought a return trip to the Haleakala National Park, provided by Norwegian Cruise Lines. We boarded a bus with about 20 other people at 8 am and started up the mountain. Our tour guide was nice and well-intentioned, but was a bit too much for me. I am a less-is-more type of person, and prefer to let the majesty of the sights speak for themselves.
Tours like this only hit the broadest highlights of big parks like Haleakala, which is unfortunate, but the payoff at the top was amazing. The view into the crater, looking at several smaller, collapsed craters, is surreal, and as the wind howls and whips everything around, it feels like you are standing on another planet. Regardless of how you get there, getting to the top of the crater is a must.
The rest of that day was spent tooling around the boat, swimming, eating, etc., as the boat prepared for a 6 pm departure for the Big Island and the city of Hilo.
One of the goals of my life has to been to visit all 50 of the great United States. My younger brother Jim has already accomplished this feat, and my father and other two brothers have both hit 48/50. This June, I joined Jim by finally making it to the wonderful island paradise of Hawai’i.
The family and I set out at 5 am from New Orleans, stopped in Denver, stopped in Oakland, and finally made it to Honolulu. For the purposes of readability, I am going to break this vacation into several posts so that I don’t leave anything out.
Getting to Honolulu is no small adventure, and our flights got changed around several times. We finally settled on a Southwest journey that was actually three flights, with a 5+ hour layover in Oakland. While this sounds awful, since we had checked all of our bags through to HNL, we were afforded the opportunity to rent a car and take a quick tour of the bay area.
Our first stop was at a breakfast restaurant in view of the bay called Town’s End Brunch. This, evidently, is a local favorite, and for good reason. Alyson and I both felt that we could have eaten there five or six days in a row and eaten five or six different things. It was great for the kids, the service was fantastic, and the food was wonderful. It was a great way to break up the 17 hour trip.
We completed the circle around the bay by stopping at the Golden Gate Bridge National Recreation Area. We actually visited this locale in an RV a few years ago, but failed to stop at the Visitors Center and stamp our books. We easily rectified that this time around, and the drive across the bridge was clear and beautiful.
The flight from Oakland to Hawai’i was a rough one, but only because it had been such a long day. Due to the time changes, we arrived at 5:30 pm local time and made our way to the Hilton Hawaiian Village. I feel like my least favorite parts of this whole trip were Honolulu and this hotel. There’s nothing wrong with either of them, but it felt like we could have been anywhere. The resort was really nice, but given the choice, I’d skip Honolulu again in the future.
Now, the main reason that I would be willing to skip it is because on Day 2, we were able to visit Pearl Harbor National Memorial. We were lucky enough to get to visit the USS Arizona and the Valor Memorial, which requires tickets that, at times, can be hard to get. That said, we were able to book through the hotel, which while more expensive, guaranteed our spots. I am aware that I just trashed the hotel and Honolulu itself, but there are certainly worthwhile things to do and see.
From here, we boarded the Norwegian Cruise Line ship, Pride of America, and set sail for the rest of the islands. This ship is older and a bit small for a major cruise line, but is the only one that hits the four major islands. The amenities are fine, but the reason to take this cruise is for your time off the boat, not to hang out on board. We ate that night at one of the included restaurants, Liberty, and bedded down as we set sail for Kahalui, Maui.
