Category: Family Vacation

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Thankfully in Gatlinburg

This year, we were unable to find a time to take a family vacation with my parents and brothers. My youngest brother is currently in a monastery (by choice), my middle brother is on the west coast with his girlfriend (now fiancée), and my elder brother and his family have been hesitant to travel for various reasons.

My parents still wanted to try to get everyone together for a trip, though, so instead of spending Thanksgiving at their house in St. Louis, they rented an amazing house on top of a mountain in Gatlinburg, TN.

Now, to no one’s surprise, none of my brother’s were able (or decided) to attend, but we were super-excited to jump on this opportunity to take the kids on a great family vacation with their grandparents.

Getting to Gatlinburg isn’t the simplest of tasks, since the nearest airport is in Knoxville, still an hour away, so we decided to drive. We left New Orleans at 4 am on Wednesday, very reminiscent of my family vacation growing up. We made it to Montgomery, Alabama, where we stopped at Greg’s Breakfast Bar. Alyson found this place on several top 10 breakfast lists in the area, and while it was not really what we expected, the food was fantastic. Just be forewarned that this restaurant makes a hole-in-the-wall look the French Laundry.

From there, we drove northeast, heading for the southern entrance to Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Aside from being a great tourist destination, Gatlinburg is immediately adjacent to this country’s most visited National Park, and those of you that follow us know that this was a big draw.

One of the frequently suggested activities in Smoky Mountain is to drive the Newfound Gap Road, which stretches the entire length of the park, north to south. We entered near the Oconaluftee Visitors Center, stamped our books, picked up our Junior Ranger packets, and headed north.

Now, it turns out that the older two Igoes have gotten over the Junior Ranger badges, which is kind of sad, but we didn’t want to force it on them, so instead of working on their books, we simply enjoyed an extremely scenic drive through the Smoky Mountains.

Once we exited the north entrance, we met my parents at the house in the early evening. It is hard to properly describe just how amazing the house my mom found on VRBO was, but I will try. It was three stories, with three balconies, all hanging over the side of a mountain, and a hot tub. It had a pool table, an arcade and a legit movie theater, and since only my branch of the family attended, we all, including the kids, had our own master suites.

After a quick dinner with my parents, we put Clara to bed, and the rest of us headed back down the mountain into Pigeon Forge. Pigeon Forge is on the other side of Gatlinburg from the park, and is appropriately referred to Vegas for Kids. It is certainly a tourist trap, but it is filled with countless activities for kids of all ages. That night, we took the big kids to Pigeon Forge Snow, which is basically an indoor version of a sledding hill where the kids got to shoot down the ‘mountain’ on inner tubes for an hour. If you are from the South, and your kids rarely get access to snow, this is a great activity.

The next morning, Thanksgiving, we got up early and all headed back into Pigeon Forge to a place called Legacy Mountain Ziplines. In case you couldn’t figure it out from the name, this is a great place to go wine tasting. Additionally, they have an amazing zipline course that requires a bus to take you to the top of a mountain.

My parents watched Clara, so we were all able to go, and while it was cold at the top of the mountain, the views were spectacular, and the guides were great. It had been about two years since I’d gone ziplining, and I forgot how much I enjoy it. Something unique about this course, you can go tandem with children as young as 3, so if you are looking for a great experience for the whole family, Legacy Mountain is a good option.

Following that, we got a quick lunch at the Cici’s Pizza buffet, which yes, is open and staffed by angry employees on Thanksgiving day, and headed into the park. We stopped at the Newfound Gap itself, then drove onto Clingman’s Dome. This is short but quite strenuous trail that leads to one of the highest points in the Smoky Mountains, where a very impressive lookout tower is located.

Frankly, I was impressed that both of our ambulatory children made it. The hike is less than a mile round trip, and the trail is paved, but the way up is shockingly steep, to the point that my mom never actually made it all the way up. The view from the top, however, is spectacular, and something that you won’t really see anywhere else in the park.

While mom didn’t make it to the top the hill, she did make it to the top of the awesome-list by getting Thanksgiving dinner from the Applewood Farmhouse Restaurant. This was a great decision. Instead of spending the day stuck in the kitchen, we were able to get outdoors and still enjoy a great meal. It may not have been as good as when grandma made it (although my grandma never actually made me Thanksgiving dinner), but it was very high quality and great way to cap off the holiday.

The next morning, we rose early again and headed for the Grotto Falls Trail. This trail goes on for several miles, but the payoff is about 1.5 miles in, where you’ll find an amazing waterfall. Cooler still, you can actually walk behind this cascade, which is pretty rare experience. This was my favorite part of the trip, and by far, my mom’s least favorite.

It had rained the night before, so the trail was pretty muddy, and the temperate was just under 35 degrees. My mom does not handle being cold well, and on the walk back, she made this clear to anyone and everyone within earshot. Regardless, I thought this was a fantastic hike, but if you decide to go, I recommend getting there early. This is a very highly trafficked trail, and the parking is very limited.

An added benefit to this trail is that it is stop #5 of 13 on the Roaring Fork Motor Trail. This is a narrow, one-way road through a specific portion of the park along the Roaring Fork River with incredible scenery throughout. Once my mom had gotten back in the car and spent some time with a seat warmer, even she enjoyed it.

On the way back through Gatlinburg, we stopped at Parton’s Deli (no relation to Dolly), where I got one of the best pastrami sandwiches that I have ever had. From there, we hopped over to the Gatlinburg Mountain Coaster. If you’ve never been on a mountain coaster, it is exactly what it sounds like. The baby fell asleep in the car, so my parents were happy to stay with her while we waited in line for about an hour for a four minute coaster ride. That said, it was totally worth it. Zipping down the hill on two rails with nothing but a chain link fence between you and bottom of the mountain is exhilarating. There are several of these in the area, and we didn’t try them all, so while I cannot say this is the best, it certainly got the job done for our family.

That night, we ate second Thanksgiving, then headed back into Pigeon Forge and met up with the folks from Smoky Mountain Jeep Tours. The tour took us from Pigeon Forge into Gatlinburg to see all of the Christmas lights. It seemed like a great idea, but to be honest, turned out kind of stupid. I really liked the guide, and several of their other tour options seem great, but the majority of this ride was spent sitting in traffic. I highly recommend the company, but not this specific excursion.

The next morning, we rose, you guessed it, early, and headed back into the park. Mom decided to sit this one out, which is too bad, because this hike was far easier and far warmer. We got to the Laurel Falls trailhead early, which again, is a good thing, as parking is limited and traffic is heavy. Just another great trail that goes for miles, but has a payoff a mile and a half in, a very impressive, towering waterfall. I think this was everyone else’s favorite trail. It is paved, less strenuous, and there are several areas at the falls where the kids could safely climb.

We could have spent days exploring Great Smoky Mountains, but in the short time we had, I think we hit all the major highlights. Perhaps earlier in the fall or mid-spring are probably better times to visit, and at holidays the tourism industry booms, but we really enjoyed our ninth National Park of 2021.

After leaving Laurel Falls, we made our way back into Pigeon Forge and hit up one of the many go-kart tracks on the strip. I cannot actually remember the name of the course, but it was a fun ride. We actually briefly considered hitting up all of the tracks to discover which ride was the fastest, as there are about a dozen of them, but it didn’t seem like the best use of our time, and one was enough to satisfy my soon-to-be driving daughter.

We got a serviceable sandwich at Firehouse Subs, then headed once more into Gatlinburg in hopes of getting to Anakeesta. Anakeesta is basically a resort which sits atop a mountain and has a lookout tower, ziplines, a coaster, several bars, restaurants and multiple sky bridges, amongst other things.

When we arrived, the line to get tickets was about twenty minutes long, and the line to take the chair lift up was about two and a half hours. If you are set on going though, and don’t care about how you get to the top, a bus runs every 15 to 30 minutes. The view on the way up isn’t as impressive, but we were happy to pass on the lift to save ourselves 120 minutes.

Once we got to the top, we put the kids in line for the mountain coaster, and went to the amphitheater area to have a beer and listen to a surprisingly religious blue grass band. The kids disagreed as to which coaster they preferred, but they definitely enjoyed the eight total minute they spent shooting down the mountains.

We climbed the viewing tower and toured the sky bridges, and all told, spent about three hours atop the mountain. It is hard to really describe the experience, because for much of it, you are just wandering around, not really doing anything specific, but whatever it is, it is a lot of fun if you can stand the wait.

My parents took the bus back down, but since there was no line at the top, we took the chair lift and actually got back to the car first. There is something exhilarating about riding down the mountain in the open air, although to me, it becomes a bit mundane after the first few minutes.

We drove back into Pigeon Forge to catch a 5 pm church service at Holy Cross Catholic Church, which was nothing fancy, but it was nice to be able to go to mass even whilst traveling. That night, we polished off the last of the Thanksgiving leftovers, packed up and went down for one last night atop the mountain.

My parents left early on Sunday morning to get back to St. Louis, but we decided to slip in one more excursion. In Gatlinburg proper, there is a sky bridge to rival all others at Gatlinburg SkyLift. The ride up the lift is not as long as Anakeesta, and the views from the top are pretty impressive. There is not actually a lot to do, once you get to the top, aside from walk from one peak to other and back, but it is a very Gatlinburg experience, and we did not want to miss out.

Once we’d made it back down, we loaded ourselves in our Honda Pilot and drove the 10 hours back to New Orleans. This was one of the most memorable Thanksgivings we have had in a long time. If your family is willing, I highly recommend making the most of these times off, and making the holiday a destination one.

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Indigenous People in Philadelphia

This year, my kids’ fall break fell on the same weekend as Columbus Day, a holiday dedicated to the memory of a guy who, by all accounts, was a jerk. Regardless, we have gotten in the habit of using this long weekend to explore some of America’s greatest cities. This year, we set out for Philadelphia.

This was the first time in a while that we flew on an airline other than Southwest, and since Southwest cancelled like a billion flights, it was fortuitous. It was also the first time that we’ve ever flown on Frontier. The overall experience was positive. The flights between New Orleans and Philly were direct, which was great with a 15 month old, and super-cheap. That said, Frontier charges extra for just about everything. We prepaid for three carry-on bags (not included in the price of the flight), and we had to pay to pick our seats. Even with these extras though, it was still about $400 cheaper than the other options, and the experience, while not the best I have ever had, was perfectly satisfactory.

We landed pretty late, after 9 pm local time, picked up the rental car and headed for the Holiday Inn Express at Penn’s Landing. This wasn’t our first choice of hotel, but it was in a cool spot, and again, the price was right. Since we planned to spend little time in the hotel, it was an easy choice.

On our way in, we stopped at a hole in the wall burger place in East Passyunk (everything in Philly has an unpronounceable name) call P’unk Burger. Frankly, it wasn’t anything special, but it was open, on the way and had milkshakes, so we were all happy enough.

The next morning, we woke early (well, the baby woke us early), ate breakfast in hotel, grabbed our passport books and headed northeast to the Valley Forge National Historic Park. Less than an hour outside of Philadelphia proper is the location where General Washington and Continental Army wintered in 1777-1778. This was a critical turning point in the American Revolution in terms of confidence and morale, and in getting foreign support for the cause of colonials.

The site is vast and very inspiring. The Visitors Center is nice, but many of the displays were closed due to COVID, and the area in general seems like a great place to bike or run. We booked a guided trolley tour which hit all the main spots and stopped at some of the replica huts and Washington’s headquarters. The guide was knowledgeable and charming, and it was a really nice way to see the entire Park and learn about its history all at the same time.

The trolley passed by the Memorial Arch, but did not stop, so afterwards, we made our way back and spent a few minutes exploring what I felt like is the best part of the site. If you have time and are in the area, Valley Forge is an important landmark in American history, and the site has been very well preserved.

On our way back to town, we stopped for lunch at a brew house called Puddlers, where they serve high quality bar food and beer from the Conshohocken (pronounced ‘I don’t know’) Brewing company. The restaurant offers great outdoor seating area on the Schuylkill (pronounced ‘I don’t know’) River where Clara could run around without bothering anyone. The beer and food were as good as you’d expect from a local brewery, and we felt right at home.

That afternoon, we parked at Franklin Square where Eileen and JR took Clara on her first carousel ride, an important milestone in the life of every human child. After that, we played a round of mini-golf, which always brings out the best in the older kids, and got ice cream. Franklin Square is one of the original squares planned by William Penn, and was a fun way to spend the afternoon.

We went from there a few blocks over the Betsy Ross House. This is one of the places she lived, and it is really well-preserved. The house itself can be toured in about five minutes, but it is another interesting part of American history. I wouldn’t say this is a ‘can’t-miss’ part of the Philadelphia experience, but if you’ve got the time, it’s an interesting place in a cool part of town.

In fact, it is only a few blocks from Elfreth’s Alley, the oldest continuously lived in residential street in the country. There is a small museum on the block, although it was closed at the time of our visit, but simply walking this area is enough to get an idea as to what life was like as America began to develop as a nation.

We also had tom to swing by the Betsy Ross House, which is a small but unique museum. It did not blow any of us away, but if you have an extra 30 minutes, it is worth your time.

My older brother lives in Jenkintown (JTP!), PA, so that evening, we drove to their house and met he and his wife, daughter and son for dinner. Fun fact, my brother’s house is actually on the same block upon which Adam Golberg grew up, so that was an unexpected, added bonus.

We ate dinner at a nearby bar called The Drake (got to love the Drake). It has a nice menu and is kid friendly, and provided a good opportunity to reconnect with my brother. Since the pandemic has been raging, we have not gotten to see his branch of the family for almost two years. While this had little to do with our plan to visit Philadelphia, it was definitely an added bonus.

On Sunday morning, we enjoyed a church service at the Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul, the cede of the archdiocese of Philadelphia. This church is beautiful and awe-inspiring, and Alyson was able to purchase a great rosary from gift shop, her favorite souvenir. This blog is not meant to be a review of different church services, but this one was mediocre. The priest’s homily went on for a good 20+ minutes, primarily saying the same thing over and over. My youngest brother is currently studying to become a priest, and I reiterate to him whenever possible that 8 minutes is where you want to live. Once someone has been speaking for over 8 minutes, 75% of the audience stops paying attention. The statistic is one of which the priest on this specific Sunday, evidently, was unaware.

Despite the long winded-ness, we had plenty of time to find brunch before our next scheduled excursion. We stopped a great cafe called Sabrina’s, which had a menu that everyone enjoyed, and the portions were absurd. Of all the meals we ate, I think Alyson and I agreed that this was our favorite.

Following brunch, we walked to the ‘LOVE’ sculpture so that Eileen could get a picture for her Instaface account, then walked over the Franklin Institute. Not to be confused with Franklin Square or the Franklin House (evidently, someone important named Franklin did something important at some point in Philadelphia), the Institute is a very interactive science museum with exhibits for kids of all ages.

The elder two really liked the sports-science section, and a Gallagher-esque live show where a big hammer smashed a bunch of smaller items. The baby really liked a show put on by two oddly dressed characters who claimed to be from the future (although JR seemed skeptical). We spent about two hours in the institute, but could easily go back for two more and experience a whole set of exhibits that had to skip our first time through.

Still full from our first meal, we drove from the Franklin Institute to the Museum of the American Revolution. My brother, having never been, met us here with his two kids, and we spent the next two hours exploring. When you first enter, there is a great video that gives a succinct, twelve minute recap of the war. It obviously does not dive too deep, but it was a great overview for the kids.

The museum has an area dedicated to younger learners, and several exhibits one can tour chronologically to get a great idea as to how the war progressed. At the end, there is another video, which finishes by revealing the actual tent that George Washington used during the war. This was one of my favorite parts of the trip, and a museum that rivals things like the Smithsonian and World War 2 museums.

After that, we went to the Franklin Fountain (I’m not sure for who this is named) and go the kids milk shakes. We said good-bye to my brother and his kids, and headed back to our hotel to relax.

At one point, we were planning to eat at either Pat’s or Gino’s, but it didn’t work out this time. Years ago, I ate at Pat’s, so it would have been nice to try Gino’s for comparison, but the weather at the time was mediocre, so we decided to eat someplace with indoor seating. That said, Eileen wanted another picture for her Snapbook, so we we drove over and grabbed a few photos.

We ended up eating at Oh Brother Philly, where we got two wiz and one chick steak. It was way too much food, and it is really hard to judge where it actually ranks in terms of cheese steaks, but I really enjoyed it and would definitely go back if we were in the area again.

We flew back Monday, but our flight was not until 1 pm, so in the morning we visited the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall. All of us, aside from Clara, had already visited, but none of the kids had gotten their books stamped, and JR was too little to remember. The Liberty Bell is really cool, and the approach to it has a lot of great information about more than just the bell.

Independence Hall is also really cool, and has been well-preserved. Our tour guide, Larry, was very informative and seemed to really enjoy what he was doing.

That said, this was by far my least favorite part of our trip. We have visited over 60 National Park sites and plan to visit many more, and this was the first where the park rangers were specifically unpleasant. Our guide, Larry, was great, but everyone else was rude, short and in more than one instance, downright mean, especially in regards to our one year old.

I am not going to go too greatly into detail, but it is hard to find someone who is willing to act like an @$$hole to our youngest and hard to find rangers that are more into themselves than they are into providing visitors with great experiences. It might have just been a bad day, so I will dwell no longer, but it was a very unfortunate experience.

Despite all of that, our family had a great trip. Philadelphia is so robust that we could go back and do a completely different set of excursions, and still have a great time. In terms of great American cities, Philadelphia is definitely at the top of the list. I would recommend it to anyone, from young to old, foreign or indigenous, it is a great place to visit.

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Rocky Mountain High

This summer, we followed suit and joined the crowds at one of our country’s most visited National Parks, Rocky Mountain. I could make the argument that crowds are following us, as we’ve been going hard on the NPs for the past three years, but what’s the point in that?

My wife’s mom planned a trip for the family to Colorado, but due to a work commitment, I was unable to join, and our eldest daughter, Eileen, was in camp in Alabama, so was also absent. For the first four days, my wife, son and younger daughter stayed with Alyson’s family in Vail. At some point, she may add a post about that, but I will pick up the story where that trip ended.

On Friday, I left work in Atlanta and was picked up by Alyson, JR and Clara at the Denver airport. From there, we headed north to Estes Park and the Rocky Mountains. We initially got a bit lost, and ended up at a little used entrance to the National Park called Wild Basin.

We spoke with a few locals on the trails, who mentioned that this area was a favorite of theirs because it was generally free of tourists (aside from us). There were some great sites and trials, including a cool waterfall. It does not offer the classic, breathtaking views of the greater park, but if you have the time, it is worth trying to find.

From there, we drove up to the main east entrance of the park and started across on the Trail Ridge Road. This road is the highest continuously paved road in the country, and offers spectacular panoramics at every turn.

Our first trek from east to west took place in the evening, so we didn’t stop as much as we might otherwise have. Even so, we did run across several deer, two large herds of elk and one fearless moose.

We made our way through the park and checked into the Gateway Inn, a great lodge on the west side of the park in Grand Lake. We had a quaint room with a balcony and a beautiful view of a storm rolling in over the mountains. It also houses the O-a Bistro, which caters to bother locals and hotel guests. The bistro is nothing spectacular, but it has a nice menu and a full bar, and the staff at this hotel and restaurant are about as nice a group of people as I have ever come across.

The next morning, we got up with the baby and headed out for a quick hike to Adams Falls. This trail, like Wild Basin, is off the main road of the National Park, but is just an amazing experience. It is less than a mile round trip and the payoff is spectacular. The falls are easily accessible and incredibly beautiful. The area is minimally trafficked to the point that we basically had the falls to ourselves.

We got back to the car and headed back across the Rockies, again on the Trail Ridge Road. We made a quick stop for a picture, and for JR to record a video for his YouTube channel, at the Continental Divide, and then headed for the Alpine Visitors’ Center.

We stamped our books, got our Junior Ranger booklets and headed up the mountain. The Alpine Ridge Trail does not look all that daunting, but it goes straight to 12,000+ feet. The air thins and the legs tire, but the payoff at the top is worth the effort. The 360 degree view of these monstrous is incomparable.

Our last stop before we left the park was Bear Lake. This area is heavily trafficked, and it took us several times through the parking lot to find a spot, but it was worth the effort. From the lot, we did a two mile out-and-back hike to Alberta Falls. This is a much more heavily visited fall than Adams, but perhaps even more breathtaking. The water thunders down hundreds of feet and offers countless amazing views and photo ops of something that you just can’t find in a place like Louisiana.

I wish we had more time in Rocky Mountain, but I think we made the best of the opportunity. We plan to go back, with Eileen, at some point in the next few years, hopefully taking an RV trip all over Colorado.

We drove into Denver and checked into a Holiday Inn Express near Coors Field. We met up with a friend from St. Louis and watched the Rockies lose a 9th inning lead to the Brewers. This is the fourth baseball stadium that I have visited this summer, and while it certainly does not compare to Wrigley, I enjoyed it more than Milwaukee and about the same as Atlanta. Overall, I have nothing legitimately bad to say about our baseball experience (except that the Brewers won), and always recommend supplementing a hiking trip like this with something a little cosmopolitan.

The last day of our visit, Sunday, was Father’s Day, and we grabbed a quick breakfast at Citizen Rail at Union Station. The restaurant has a bit of limited menu, but the food was good, and I would certainly eat there again.

The last thing we did prior to leaving was visit Red Rocks. This was almost an afterthought, as we were just trying to kill time before our flight, and thank the Good Dude that we did. If you thought Red Rocks was just a great concert venue, well, you’d be correct, but you’d be missing out on some of the most amazing hiking and scenery within a short drive of Denver. We took the Trading Post trail, about a two mile, pretty rigorous loop, and what a fantastic experience.

The topography of this area is different than anything I have ever seen, including the Rockies. If you have the chance, this is a can’t-miss part of one of the most amazing states in this country.

We had such a great time in less than three full days that we are already planning a trip back. Most people visit Colorado over the winter to ski, and while that makes a lot of sense, there is so much to do year round that you cannot limit yourself to just one season. If you have any questions or want suggestions, please reach out, otherwise, we’ll see you the next time we go a-traveling.

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Memories in St. Louis

This Memorial Day, my family and I took a quick trip to Missouri to spend the holiday weekend with my parents, brothers and their families. We all grew up in St. Louis, and it is always nice to all go back together, as none of us currently live in the area.

We flew up early on Saturday morning and met my family at the National Museum of Transportation. This is a site that I visited many times as a child, and offers a lot for kids of certain ages. It has a great old car museum, multiple old train cars that you can tour, and a train ride around the entire park. It is definitely geared more towards kids younger (or older) than ours, ideally the 4 through 7 ages, but we enjoyed it.

We went to the Corner Pub and Grill for lunch, which has a vast menu for just about anyone, but is nothing spectacular, then went to relax at my parent’s house. After we unpacked, we went with my brothers to the O’Fallon Brewery. My middle brother, in particular, is a big fan of breweries, and this was a nice way to spend the evening.

The following day, we really kicked off our trip. This was Sunday, and the family decided to head about an hour south to Hawn State Park. This is another location that we visited a lot as kids, and it offers several really interesting hikes.

As my family, in particular, is big into getting our National Park passport books stamped, we left a bit early and took a little detour. In 2018, the Ste. Genevieve Historic Park became a part of the National Park services. Ste. Genevieve is the site of the first permanent European settlement in Missouri and is one of the newest sites designated by the Parks services.

It is so new in fact, that they are still building out the area. The Visitors’ Center offers some very cool scale models and a very informative video. In addition, there are several buildings that are part of site that date back to the late 1700s. The kids got their books stamped and did the Junior Ranger packets, and we pressed on. This is currently not a site that you would want to spend more than an hour or two at, but if you are in the area, it is pretty interesting.

When we arrived at Hawn State Park, we met my family at the Pickle Creek Trail and headed out. This trail follows a very scenic river about a mile deep into the park. While the entire trail is pretty impressive, the end offers several natural water-slides upon which the kids can play. The water was a little cold, but it is a lot of fun for the kids to have something to look forward to at the end.

The park has multiple trails that seem pretty worthwhile, but as we had the baby with us, we decided one good hike was enough for us. The baby fell asleep in the car on the way home, so after we ate and changed, we headed back into town and spent the afternoon at the City Museum.

If you have kids between the ages of 6 and 16, I would call this perhaps the number one ‘must-do’ in St. Louis. While it says museum in the name, there is very little educational about this attraction. The City Museum consists largely of repurposed architectural and industrial objects through which the kids crawl, climb and tunnel. It is hard to do this museum justice in print, but it is the first place that Jonathan and Eileen ask to go every time we are in St. Louis.

We went to the City Museum without the rest of our family, as my brother’s kids are just a bit too young for the experience, but we all met back at the house for Imo’s Pizza. If you watch Jimmy Kimmel, you may have heard one of his rant against Imo’s, but if you are from St. Louis, like Jon Hamm, you understand that this pizza isn’t just from St. Louis, it is St. Louis. There is nothing in the world that takes me back to my formative years than eating one of these thin, provel-covered delights.

The next day, we hit the Zoo, and while I have been there many times, it never fails to impress. The St. Louis Zoo is regularly ranked as one of the top five in the country, but perhaps the most attractive feature is that the zoo is free. Our zoo in New Orleans, which is fine but nothing special, costs almost $20/person. Getting to see fantastic zoo with great animals and enclosures, for free, is a reason to go to St. Louis in and of itself. My kids, who only go to St. Louis once or twice a year, have probably been a dozen times, and it never gets old.

We left the Zoo and headed to The Hill for lunch. The Hill is an old neighborhood in St. Louis that was settled by Italian immigrants. While it has produced some notable people, like Hall of Famer Yogi Berra, the best product of The Hill is the food. There are bakeries, delis or restaurants on every corner, and this time around, we picked Joe Fassi’s. Joe offers about 20 different sandwiches, and while they all sound good, I cannot never pass on the salami. If you are visiting St. Louis and looking for a really unique, high quality restaurant, I recommend just about anywhere on The Hill.

Before we headed for the airport, we made a quick stop at Ted Drewes. I feel like, aside from the Cardinals who were on the road at the time, we really hit all the St. Louis classics. Ted Drewes is an old drive-in/diner-style frozen custard shop. Their specialty is called a concrete, which is reminiscent of a blizzard, from DQ, but so much better. It is hard to choose, but I think I have to recommend the Oreo concrete; it may well be the best desert I have ever enjoyed.

Since my parents live their, we visit St. Louis a lot, but we try to do something different every time. I think we hit the nail on the head this Memorial Day, and the kids really seemed to enjoy. If you are going sometime soon, please reach out as I would be happy to give you suggestions for families of all shapes and sizes.

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Mother’s Day on the Bayou

Since we got our passport books in Hot Springs, AR in 2018, we have been doing our best to collect as many stamps as possible, and visit every National Park site we can. This year, for Mother’s Day, the Traveling Igoes decided to knock off some of the low-hanging fruit.

There are two site within a few minutes of where we live in Louisiana, the New Orleans Jazz National Historic Park and the Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve. The Jazz Heritage Site has been closed since COVID began, but Jean Lafitte has recently become very accessible, and has a whole lot to offer.

We woke up early and headed down to French Quarter for brunch, where we at the Red Fish Grill. The restaurant is actually on Bourbon Street, just inside the Quarter, and is a great option for families. The food is extraordinary, but the atmosphere is very casual, and they offer a very diverse kid’s menu.

Afterwards, we wandered the Quarter for a bit, including Jackson Square and the riverfront, we made our way back to the car, changed into our hiking gear and headed south towards the tip of Louisiana.

The Jean Lafitte site is about 30 minutes outside of New Orleans, and for those visiting the city with kids, it is a good option. New Orleans offers far more adult attractions than it does for the younger members of the family, so having a National Park Site within half an hour at which you can spend an entire day is a nice option.

The park actually has six sites scattered across South Louisiana. Each location is unique in its focus, and they all reflect a place where traditions can be generations old, but the ground under your feet can change with the weather. The focus of this adventure was the Barataria Preserve.

The 26,000 acres include swamps, bayous, marshes and forests, and is crisscrossed by boardwalks that are frequented by humans, snakes and gators alike. When we arrived, we hit up the Visitors’ Center, got some info from the ranger, a few Junior Ranger Packets and headed out along the Visitor Center Trail.

This is only a 0.25 mile boardwalk near the Visitors’ Center that we were actually planning to skip, but the ranger told us that a mating pair of alligators were basking near the end. As usual, the ranger was telling the truth, and less than five feet from the boardwalk were two good looking gators. We saw several alligators in the wild at the Everglades, but it never gets old, and getting up close and personal is a bit exhilarating.

From there, we got back in the car and drove to the Bayou Coquille trailhead. There is a boardwalk connecting the Visitors’ Center to the Bayou trail, but, according to the ranger, it is not at all shaded, so we skipped the Palmetto Trail. Perhaps if we return at a cooler time of year, we will give it a go, but from April to September in Louisiana, it can be very unpleasant to walk 0.9 miles in zero shade, 90% humidity.

The Bayou Coquille Trail is an eerie trek through a Louisiana bayou that might have been pulled from a storybook. Within five minutes, we saw a small gator swimming up the bayou, leading to a baby gator sunning itself on an island. This trail is about half a mile, and in that half mile, we also ran across three harmless, but nonetheless creepy, snakes.

This trail dead ends at another trail, the Marsh Overlook, where we found a clearing overlooking a lily-filled marsh. On this portion of the walk, we came across two more alligators, culminating in a large gator resting in the marsh itself.

Most of these hikes are along boardwalks and are well tended, and the walk itself is relatively easy, to the point that we were able to do it with a stroller. There is no denying that we were sweaty by the end, but it was a great two-mile trek.

It is also worth noting that the Junior Ranger packet was relatively easy. Those of you that have gotten multiple badges know that some are very straight forward while others can actually be a pain in the ass. This packet was appropriate to the level of the park, and was easily completed in one day.

If you are visiting New Orleans, either with or without kids, and you want an excursion that will take you out of the city for a few hours, Jean Lafitte is a great option. If you want a longer excursion, there are several companies that offer airboat tours of the area as well.

Prior to going, I was optimistic that perhaps one day, this site might get re-designated as a Louisiana’s first National Park. Having visited, it seems unlikely to me, as the potential activities are a bit limited. That said, if you are in the area, I highly recommend you take the time to experience this beautiful cross-section of our underrated state.

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Baseball’s Back in the Midwest

I have said many times that the planning of a trip creates almost as much joy as does the vacation itself, and I stand by that statement. In the case of the Igoe’s recent vacation to Chicago, the planning was a multi-year process.

In early 2020, we decided to take a vacation over the Easter holiday to Chicago. As I am sure everyone is aware, only a few weeks after we planned everything out, the world went crazy and everything was shut down due to COVID.

This year, as Easter approached, we very closely watched the news, and the numbers, and all the information from the various departments of health, and when the time came, we were able to pull the trigger and take the vacation that we had been planning since 2019.

On Good Thursday, we landed at Midway Airport and drove straight to Lou Malnati’s. This is a deep dish restaurant chain that makes a great, almost stereotypical Chicago-style pizza. For those of you who have never had deep dish pizza in Chicago, it is very different than what is considered deep dish elsewhere. For one, the crust is actually not very think, but is much more like what you would see in an actual pie. The next layer on our pizza was cheese, followed by a pizza-sized patty of sausage. To clarify, I do not mean multiple chunks of sausage, but one large disc. On top of this was poured the sauce, so to most us, this is basically an upside down pizza. While I will not say that Lou’s is the best pizza I have ever had, it was a great way to wade into the deep dish pizza waters.

From there, we headed down town to stay a Hampton Inn in the Majestic building. The year prior, we had reservations at the Palmer House, but due to capacity limitations, could not get a room. While there was nothing all that special about the Hampton Inn, it was inside the loop, walking distance to plenty of attractions and more than adequate in terms of accommodations.

The next morning, we all awoke when the baby started making noise, loaded up the rental car and headed for Indiana. On the way, we stopped at Firecakes Donuts. Evidently, Chicago has become a mecca for artisan style donuts, and Firecakes was the first of the three we tried. At all three, I got a classic old fashioned, and while Firecakes was not the best of the three, it was nonetheless fantastic. More on the donuts to come…

About an hour east of Chicago is Indiana Dunes National Park. Indiana Dunes is one of the country’s newest National Parks, previously designated a National Lakeshore, to the point that they have not yet installed a permanent National Park sign. When we arrived, the kids got their passport books stamped, and we picked up three junior ranger packets. We headed into the park, straight for the Three Dune Challenge. This is a relatively strenuous hike that goes up and down three separate sand dunes. It is not easy to explain how difficult a dune can be to ascend if you have never hiked one before, but walking up hill in the sand is quite cumbersome (especially with an 18 pound butterball strapped to your stomach). The payoff was worth it though, as the views of Lake Michigan from atop each peak are nothing short of spectacular.

Indiana Dunes is far more popular in the summer time, when you can camp out on the beach and play in the water, but there is plenty to do and see, no matter what time of year you visit. It is definitely a park that you could spend three or four days exploring, but it is also one that can be adequately experienced if you only have a few free hours. Even though this was our first excursion of the trip, I think it was my favorite experience overall. If you get the chance, I strongly recommend visiting this really unique park to take in a landscape that can be found in very few other places across the country.

On our way back to Chicago, since we had our passport books, we decided to stop at the Pullman National Monument. This site memorializes a really interesting moment in Chicago history when George Pullman created a planned community in which his factory workers could live. He was attempting to keep the families of his employees from having to live in slums, but at the same time, forced them to rent from him. It was quite controversial and eventually led to significant strife.

This site was only designated a part of the NPS in 2015 and is still in development. It is really interesting, but there is not a whole lot to do as of yet. If we ever get back to Chicago, I hope to visit the monument again.

From there, we got drove to the hotel, parked the Hyundai and walked up to the Chicago River, where we got on-board a Wendella tour. There several companies that offer architectural river tours, and the one recommended to us by several friends was Wendella. At certain times of the year, they actually go into Lake Michigan as well, but for this time of year, that was not available.

Following the Great Fire of 1871, Chicago developed a very interesting and unique architectural style. Multiple skyscrapers, luxury apartments and stone buildings have gone up along the river, and this 90 minute cruise gives tourists a chance to take it all in and learn a lot about the history of the city. I should warn you that the cruise does get a bit chilly, so dress appropriately and do not hesitate to take advantage of the bar and warm yourself up with a cocktail. I believe this was Alyson’s favorite part of our trip and in terms of bang for your buck, this is a can’t miss tourist attraction.

That night, we ate at Harry Caray’s Italian Steakhouse. As it was a Friday in Lent, I was a little disappointed not to get to try the steak (as was the waiter), but the pasta dishes we all got were amazing. This is one of the most impressive restaurants that I have ever been in. It is basically a high-end version of a sports bar, with pictures and quotes and memorabilia everywhere. And it is not just a bunch of Cubs non-sense; the entire baseball community is represented in one form or another. We were actually lucky enough to meet one of Ernie Banks’ sons during our meal. I was quite skeptical at first, but he very quickly proved that he was, in fact, the child of Mr. Cub.

The next morning, Clara woke us up early again, and we headed for the Donut Vault. Another of Chicago’s boutique bakeries, the Vault offers the classics as well as several unique options. I got the old fashioned again, and again it was great, but it was not the best one I had over the weekend. My son got a pair of enormous donut holes that he claims were the best thing he ate all trip.

That morning we went to Field Museum, one of the city’s most diverse attractions. I visited once as a child and remember it being primarily dinosaur bones. Whether or not that is just a child’s memory or things have changed, this museum has evolved into one of the greatest natural history attractions in the country, rivaling the Smithsonian.

In addition to really impressive dinosaur skeletons, like the T. Rex Sue, the museum has amazing exhibits on the history of the planet, on the history of human beings, an impressive collection of gem stones, and then about six more hours worth of things to see for which we did not have time. They even have several virtual reality simulators that helped to keep the kids engaged throughout. I think this was Eileen’s favorite part of our Chicago adventure.

It was recommended to us that we eat at the Billy Goat Tavern. Those of you that are older might recall a classic SNL sketch based on this restaurant. It is a classic, tucked underneath the city streets that can be hard to find if you come from the wrong direction. There are a few options, but 95% of the food served are thin, grilled burgers. The food is good, but the atmosphere is what makes it worthwhile. If you have never been there before, it is important to keep in mind that even though the menu only has singles and doubles, you can order as many patties as you like. I got a triple, which ended up being the appropriate meat-to-bun ratio, but in my hungrier youth, I could easily have put down a quadruple or quintuple.

The next stop on our tour was the 360 Chicago Observation Deck in the John Hancock building. I have heard that the views from the Willis (Sears) Tower are actually better, but it was closed due to COVID, so beggars can’t be choosers. I am forced to confess that this was my least favorite part of our trip. We purchased 2 pm tickets and arrived at 1:40. When we got there, we were told it would be about an hour and fifteen minute wait. When I asked an associate what was the point of having 2 o’clock tickets if it didn’t mean we got to go at 2 o’clock, she told me that they do not guarantee anything, but that our tickets were good for a year.

As unhelpful as that was, we decided to stick it out, and made it to the 94th floor at around 2:45. Once I got over my impatience, I did enjoy the views and would recommend it, just be aware that the numbers on your tickets are basically meaningless. You step off the elevator into a room with panoramic overlooks of the city. For a little extra, you can try the tilt, where you stand against the glass and are slowly tilted out beyond the edge of the building. It is actually scarier to watch than it is to do, and it definitely makes the wait a bit more worthwhile. There is also a bar that serves drinks and gelato, so at least that is something.

As a result of the unexpected wait, we had to hurry through a bit, got back to the car and headed north to Milwaukee. I am aware that I have billed this as a Chicago trip, and that to this point, as much time will have been spent outside of Chicago as in, but due to the circumstances, we had to broaden our horizons.

It just so happens that we have all grown up as big baseball fans; the kids and I of the Cardinals, and Alyson of the Astros. While neither of those teams happened to be in Chicago or Milwaukee, both of those teams were playing at home, so on Saturday night, we drove to American Family Field (formerly Miller Park), and watched the Brewers lose to the Twins.

American Family is a nice, clean park, but it is not super unique. I suppose it was heavily limited by COVID, but it felt like we could have been watching a ball game anywhere. Even so, we all had a great time. Capacity was maxed at 25%, so we had plenty of room to spread out and there was not a bad seat in the house. The game itself was actually quite entertaining as well, for the more committed baseball fan. Both teams threw perfect games into the 5th, and the Twins pitching staff completed a really impressive one-hitter for a 2-0 victory. If you are the type of person who wants to see the greatest sporting venues this country has to offer, Milwaukee probably shouldn’t be on your list, but if you want to enjoy baseball in a nice, comfortable stadium, American Family Field will do the trick.

The next day was Easter, and since our church reservations were not until 10, and Clara woke us up at 7, we decided to go out for breakfast. Instead of donuts, we went to a restaurant called Yolk on the Chicago River. This is just simple, straightforward breakfast food with some interesting twists. My daughter got Oreo pancakes while my son got s’mores-based pancakes. Eileen loved hers but when my son started scraping off all the graham cracker and marshmallow fluff, we came to the decision that he is no longer allowed to order specialty pancakes. No matter how good they sound, all he ever wants is plain.

For Easter, we went to church at Holy Names Cathedral. A beautiful building, the service was performed by Cardinal Cupich, so it was a unique experience. When we do attend church in larger cities whilst on vacation, we always try to go the cathedral, if the city has one. These buildings are usually a sight worth seeing in and of themselves, and it helps to deepen the experience one gets in a different town.

Afterwards, we jumped on the L-train (which evidently is the same thing as the subway), and headed for Wrigley Field. The Cubs opened the 2021 season again division rivals, the Pittsburgh Pirates, and we were lucky enough to get four of the 10,000+ tickets available, due to capacity limitations.

If you are a baseball fan, and have never been to Wrigley, this is a must visit. Contrasting it to American Family the night before, it is easy to understand how the Cubs ballpark has become one of the most iconic sports venues in the country. Wrigley is tucked into a residential neighborhood and could easily be missed if it weren’t for the throngs of fans. Every seat, including those on the roof tops across the street, is amazing, and the atmosphere is electric, even at 25%.

Having grown up a Cardinals’ fan, I refuse to say it is the best baseball stadium I have ever visited, but it is certainly up there. I will also note the while the fan base is committed, the fans in the bleachers perhaps take it too far at times, in several not particularly family friendly ways. On Easter Sunday, the Cubs beat Pirates 4-2, and while I was certainly pulling for visitors, I have to admit that I had an amazing time.

After the game, we took the L-train back to the loop, and once again, walked to the Chicago River. We decided that we could not visit Chicago without experiencing one of the almost countless Chicago steakhouses. For the meat eaters out there, this is something that everyone should do at least once. That said, be prepared to pay. We ate at Chicago Cut, and it was fantastic, but the price for four of us was well over $200, and that included two steaks, two sides and a few drinks.

The reason these meals get so expensive is that the entrees usually start at around $60. Since both Jonathan and Eileen enjoy steak, we ordered two, along with two sides, and shared everything. I am glad we did it, and if we go back to Chicago, I could see doing it again, but this type of meal is obviously geared toward tourists and business folk, not the every day Chicago resident.

The next day, Monday, was our last day in Illinois, and we had few concrete plans, other than to get a donut. On Monday morning, we hit up Stan’s, and I got my third and final old fashioned. I am glad that we stuck with it, because this was my favorite donut of the weekend. Funny enough, it was my wife’s least favorite. Of the three donut places we hit, she enjoyed Firecake’s the most, and JR and Eileen preferred the Donut Vault. It just goes to show that there are different strokes for different folks, and that the Chicago donut scene, evidently, is blowing up.

We spent the rest of the day driving around different parts of Chicago. We went to the Lincoln Park area to see the Sacred Heart school and Loyola Marymount. This is a really scenic location, and a place that I could see my daughter going for college. We also ate at Pequod’s Pizza, a great neighborhood restaurant and bar. While Lou Malnati’s is certainly more well-known, the whole family agreed that the pizza at Pequod’s was far superior.

We flew home on Southwest that afternoon, and all crashed hard. It is extraordinarily satisfying to get to a experience a new city, mostly on foot. We love trying new restaurants, seeing new parks, and who could pass on finally getting to go back to a baseball game in person. One of the great things about this trip is that while we all enjoyed every activity, we all had different favorites. I enjoyed the Indiana Dunes the most, Alyson loved the river tour, JR’s favorite part was both baseball games, and Eileen loved the Field Museum. Oh, and Clara liked laughing at inappropriate moments during the Cardinal’s homily on Easter.

Chicago is a great and unique American city, and it has plenty of family friendly activities for all ages. It is also a city that offers so much, that it cannot all be done in one trip. If you have any questions, please reach out; our family would love to help yours enjoy Chicago as much as we did.

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Escaping Texas for the Glades, Bays and Big Cypress

It is a well-known fact that New Orleans is a hot-bed for Mardi Gras activity. Every year prior Lent, the city ramps up with balls, parades and parties. Unfortunately, almost all of this was cancelled in 2021 due to COVID, but it didn’t put a damper on the cities lesser-known holiday celebration. Almost every school in the city has the entire week off, so for New Orleanians, this is a great time to travel.

Since the rest of the world is at work and school, places like Disney World and Vale are far less crowded than usual. This year, we decided to join in the fun, and head to a state that has instituted very few COVID restrictions, Florida.

Since I was young, I have been fascinated by the Everglades. The endless rivers of grass, the crocodiles and the manatees have always seemed really unique, and when the opportunity arose, we decided to pull the trigger.

Alyson and I set to planning, and as I have said before, I find planning to be almost, but not quite, as much fun as the actual trip. We decided to leave on Ash Wednesday, and spend three full days in south Florida. In addition to the Everglades, Biscayne National Park and Big Cypress National Preserve are in the area. In terms of hitting National Parks, south Florida was a great option. We are still dying to get to places like Acadia and Isle Royale, but February is not really the right time to go so far north. It is also worth mentioning that the Dry Tortugas is in the same area, but that requires an extensive amount of planning that we did not have time to pull off.

So the plan was to leave, as a family, on Wednesday, but mother nature threw us a nasty curve ball. Alyson and Clara went to San Antonio the weekend prior to visit Alyson’s mom, just in time for a freak winter storm that shut down most of Texas for almost an entire week. They were supposed to fly home on Sunday, but the flight got cancelled. The same continued for the next several days, constantly scheduling and rescheduling flights.

As Wednesday approached, we had to decide how to move forward. Instead of flying back to New Orleans, Alyson and Clara got flights into Miami. Unfortunately, they could not get there until Friday, but we decided that the rest of us should go and move forward with what we had planned.

Eileen, Jonathan and I landed on Wednesday night, picked up our rental car and drove to a Hampton Inn in Homestead, Florida, just outside of the Everglades. There are not a lot of places to stay within the park, but Homestead is really close by. On Wednesday morning, we got up early and headed into the park. The Everglades has multiple visitors centers, and our first stop was the Flamingo.

From here, we set out on a back country boat tour hosted by Flaming Adventures. This took us into the interior of the Everglades water ways, where we saw lots of birds, fish and a few crocodiles. It is worth noting that the Everglades is the only place on Earth where you can find both alligators and crocodiles.

That said, of all the things we did, I think we all agreed this was our least favorite. It was fun, but the way out and way back took the same route, and it got a little boring. However, once we got back to the visitors’ center, a ranger took us out to a spot in the marina where an 11 foot crocodile lives. Then he took us around the dock, where a mother and baby manatee were swimming. This is pretty much what we came for, so getting to see these rare American animals on Day 1 was fantastic.

That afternoon, we drove from the southern tip of the park all the way to the northern end, to Shark Valley. If you are wondering why it is called Shark Valley, as there are no sharks there, so is everyone else. Evidently, this watershed feeds into the Shark River, thus named by a Spanish conquistador due to all the bull sharks present at the time of arrival. It would far more aptly be named Gator Valley.

At the Shark Valley Visitors’ Center, the kids stamped their passports, and we hopped aboard the Shark Valley Tram Tour. This is a ranger led tour that goes along a 15 mile paved road deep into the heart of the Everglades. On the way out, the ranger assured us that we would see more gators on the way back, so there was no reason to stop for everyone.

She was spot on. On the way out, we probably saw half a dozen alligators, but we also spotted birds of probably thirty different species, and the ranger was able to educate us on all different aspects of the park.

At the half way point, there is an old tower that you can climb which offers a 360 degree view of the park. From this view, you cannot see a single building, just a see of grass as far as the eye can see. Out of everything we did, this moment was the most breath-taking.

On the back half of the loop, we probably spotted another thirty alligators, including a group of at least a dozen babies. You might not think it possible, but even alligator babies are cute.

That evening, the kids swam in the pool at our Hampton Inn, and we ate at a Chili’s. For this, I blame my wife. Had she not been stuck in Texas, she would have found a better option. I have discovered that I make the mistake of eating a Chili’s about every three years, and every three years, I remember why it has been so long.

On Day 2, we awoke early and headed for the western edge of the park, which borders the Gulf of Mexico. At this stage, my wife’s next flight, supposed to arrive that noon, had gotten cancelled, but the good news was that she was on a flight to Baltimore. From there, she was set to join us at about 10 pm in Miami.

In the meantime, we took another boat excursion called the Ten Thousand Island Tour. This adventure explored a vast set of islands, some that can be camped upon, off the west coast of Florida. The tour was far more quite exciting than that of the previous day. The guide was able to locate several dolphins, and after a few tries, succeeded in getting them to trail and flip in the wake of the boat. We also saw countless birds, including several Magnificent Frigatebirds and one Bald Eagle.

We ate lunch at the Island Cafe in Everglades City, which, to be frank, is nothing special. It was a Friday in Lent, and they had fried seafood, so it is hard to be too critical. From there, we drove back the way we came to one of the two Big Cypress Visitors’ Centers to get our passport stamps, and headed into the preserve.

It is hard to really mark a difference between the Everglades and Big Cypress, but I guess I can say that Big Cypress was less water and more passable land. That said, the are is quite swampy, and definitely distinct from the Glades in its own way.

In the early afternoon, we met a guide from Big Cypress Swamp Tours, who took us on a buggy tour through the park. This was the tour that I was looking forward to the most. We boarded a very unique, six-wheeled, two-story vehicle that rolled through the soggy, bumpy ‘paths’ checking out the local wildlife.

In addition to the guide being great, filled with great information and local color, we were able to see gators, birds, snakes and the ever-so-rare white-tailed deer. The guide also noted that he saw a black bear a few days prior, and in his six years, had seen a panther seven times. Having done a good bit of research, I cannot think of a better way to have experienced Big Cypress than this type of tour.

That night, we swam again and ate at Mamma Mia’s Pizza in Homestead. It wasn’t the greatest pizza I have ever had, but I have no complaints. And again, mozzarella sticks and cheese pizza hit the spot on a Friday night in Lent.

From there, we crossed our fingers and headed for the Miami airport. Lo and behold, only 45 minutes late, my wife and my 7 month old emerged from the baggage claim, and our family was together again. While Eileen, JR and I had been having fun, there was definitely something missing, and it was very gratifying to have our family made whole again.

We had one more day to make the most of our trip, and primarily, to give Alyson and Clara a good experience, one great day. After getting breakfast at the hotel, we headed for another of south Florida’s National Parks, Biscayne. This park is over 90% water, so we booked another boat tour, this one provided by the Biscayne National Park Institute. We took the Heritage of Biscayne Cruise, which took us to several different islands.

At the furthest end of the tour, we disembarked and toured an island with an old lighthouse, an old church, and a really cool, almost hidden trail. The island is called Boca Chita Key, and if you leave the recreation area and go behind the old garage, there is a semi-enchanted entrance to a really cool trail. Less than a 20 minute loop, there is a tiny, hidden beach that would be a great place for a picnic. As you progress, there’s a place where you have to cross an old, broken down bridge. You do have to get wet here, but it was fun, and an adventure that the big kids thought was really exciting.

From there, we headed back to the Everglades. This was not the initial plan, but since Clara and Alyson had not been to the park yet, we did not want to leave without giving them the experience. It was a bit of drive, but we decided to head back to the Flamingo Visitors’ Center to try to see the wildlife. We were lucky enough to see the big crock again, and this time, a whole herd of manatees.

Following that, we drove to the east end of the park to the two best walking trails available. We combined the Anhinga and Gumbo Limbo Trails, for about a total of 1.5 miles. These two trails were great, and really provide unique, well-rounded cross-sections of the Everglades.

On the way back to the hotel, we found the Miami Brewing Company. The beer was typical, and the food was nothing to go into detail about, but it was a great, relaxing way to end our vacation. We flew home the next day, and the long saga of getting my wife and infant out of Texas had finally come to an end.

For the National Park lovers our there, I highly recommend this trip, and if you have time, to add the Dry Tortugas. We plan to get there someday soon, it simply wasn’t in the cards for this trip. That aside, getting the full experience of the Everglades was great. This is a truly unique park that offers so multiple, startling ecosystems. I will say that it is not quite as awe-inspiring as the Grand Canyon or Yellowstone, but it is a piece of Americana that everyone should experience.

I also learned that a family vacation is not the same without the entire family. Eileen, JR and I were all just a little heartbroken that we were experiencing these parks without Alyson and Clara. I am really not sure what we can do differently in the future to keep this from happening, but hopefully, none of us will ever miss out on our family adventures again.

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Louis and Antonio: Saints for the Holidays

Those of you who follow us regularly know that while our Igoe family has lived in New Orleans for over ten years now, we have no family who live in the area. As such, we have become accustomed to traveling for the holidays. Thanksgiving and Christmas almost do not feel right when we celebrate at home by ourselves. This year was no different. On December 23rd, we hopped a Southwest flight to St. Louis and spent Christmas with my parents.

With the pandemic going strong, we all got tested before leaving, and even in St. Louis, we were more reserved than normal. Not wanting to unnecessarily expose my parents, we tried to refrain from doing anything that would include a large crowd. We arrived on a Wednesday, and on Thursday, Christmas Eve, we headed down to Union Station.

For those of you not familiar with Union Station, it is an old train depot that has been through many iterations. In fact, once as a child, I fell into a water feature in winter. It is a story my older brother loves to tell now, but at the time, it was quite unpleasant. At the moment, and hopefully for good, the station has been converted into an aquarium, amongst other things, and in terms of aquariums, we thought this one was fantastic.

It was basically an interactive tour with several really cool features. The kids got to feed turtles, have fish eat dead skin off their hands and pet sting rays. Having been to multiple aquariums over the years, I was pleasantly impressed.

What really makes Union Station great is that in addition to the aquarium, there is shopping, food and several other entertainment. There is a mirror maze and a London Eye-style Ferris wheel, as well as indoor ropes course. We decided forego the first two, but the kids loved the ropes course. There are two courses, based upon height, and Eileen and JR were both big enough for high course. Since JR is under 13, I had to go with him, but it was a lot of fun. There were several cool features, zip lines and overhangs, and it was a great way to finish the excursion.

On the way home, we stopped at a sandwich place The Hill called Joe Fassi’s. My biggest frustration with eating on The Hill in St. Louis is that we are never there long enough to try everything on the menu. I got a meatball sub which was arguably the best one I have ever had. My wife got a salami sandwich and both of the kids got turkey. To say that everything was good would be insulting to Joe’s. This place was so good that we almost went back two days later. If you are in St. Louis, and you want a great sandwich, nothing beats The HIll, and Joe Fassi’s is one of the best options.

The next day, being Christmas, we spent at home, opening presents, watching A Christmas Story and spending time with family. Saturday, we were back at it again. Recently, the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial was converted to the Gateway Arch National Park. We actually took the kids the year prior, but have been unable to find the picture we took of them at the sign.

This year, since we have a new edition, we decided to get a new picture and get Clara’s passport stamped. The Arch has a great museum about westward expansion and Lewis and Clark, and the ride to the top, while claustrophobic, is pretty cool. If you’re looking to explore a city and hit a National Park, St. Louis is a great option.

On the way home, we were forced to hit up The Hill again. This time we hit up Mama’s, one of the places that claims to be the creator of toasted ravioli. If you’ve never had t-ravs, they are basically breaded and fried raviolis, filled with meat and cheese. Why they are called toasted is a mystery, and why they taste so good is beyond me, but they might just be the best thing in the world. We also ordered a pizza, which in St. Louis comes with provel cheese, which again, is a must try.

That night, the whole family went to Garden Glow at the Botanical Garden. Every year, the garden puts up lights and installations that are really impressive. It is cold, but they sell hot chocolate and adult drinks, and the kids love the chance to make s’mores. The garden is really impressive during the day, but lit up at night for the holidays, this excursion is a can’t miss.

We flew home on Sunday, washed all of our clothes and jetted off to San Antonio to spend time with Alyson’s family. This trip was a bit shorter, and we spent most of the time in my in-laws house. We did find time to get outside and explore one of Texas’ many state parks. Because of the viral situation, passes to the parks have to be purchased in advance, and the only one close enough with an opening was Guadalupe River State Park.

I think this park is probably better during the summer, as the river looks very inviting, but we did find a great hike that went about a mile along the edge of the river and provided some really cool scenery. The kids were able to skip rocks, climb trees and overall, enjoy being outside.

On the way home, we ate at Little Gretel’s in Boerne, which is a really great German restaurant that had several options for the kids. Texas is such a big state, and the cities are so expansive that it can be hard to really plan. A good suggestion for one part of San Antonio may be 45 minutes from where you are going. That said, there is so much good stuff in Texas that if you look, you’ll be able to find something worthwhile.

We usually go to St. Louis and Texas at least once a year, and this 2020 was no exception. If you are going, even during COVID, as long as you plan, there are plenty of great things to be done.

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A Mammoth Adventure

For the past two years, our family has taken a short trip over the kids’ fall break. If you don’t recall having a fall break as a child, keep in mind that you are not alone. I never had one until college, but evidently, it is common place these days, especially in private schools. The rule, apparently, is that the more money you pay, the less time your kids actually spend at the school, but I digress.

Last year, we went to Hot Springs National Park and Little Rock in Arkansas. Two years prior, we spent the break in Washington D.C. We decided that this short break is a good time to travel to National Park Service cites that are close to bigger cities. There are several National Parks near major airports or within a short drive. This year we choose Mammoth Cave.

Several factors played into this decision. For one, Mammoth Cave National Park is less than an hour and a half north of Nashville, and we were able to fly direct on Southwest from New Orleans to Nashville both ways. Second, and just as important, compared to some National Parks, Mammoth Cave has very few COVID restrictions. The park in general, the lodging and the visitor’s center were all open.

We left in the middle of the day on Friday, just as Hurricane Delta was making land fall in western Louisiana. This season has been more active than any I can recall, but so far, we have been lucky. We landed at BNA in time for dinner, and headed into town. We unintentionally ended up at a restaurant called Ole Red on Broadway. We had not planned ahead for dinner, so looked up something close to where we were that was family friendly.

While I cannot deny that Ole Red is family friendly, I was unaware that in Nashville, Broadway would be akin to Bourbon Street in New Orleans or Beale Street in Memphis. There were heavy crowds, long lines and a lot of bachelorette parties. The food was good, including the hot chicken sandwich, and they had a kids’ menu. We all enjoyed the live music, but did not linger, as we felt quite out of place. This is no fault of anyone but ourselves, and I would definitely recommend Ole Red under the right circumstances.

From there, we drove north about half an hour and stayed at a Holiday Inn. While there is often little special about a Holiday Inn, we always find them clean and accommodating. The morning of the second day, we woke up early headed for Kentucky. First off, we had scheduled a canoe trip with Green River Canoeing, Inc., on the Nolin River. Unfortunately, the rain from the Gulf hurricane followed us, and we got a call saying that the trip had to be cancelled. It ended up barely sprinkling, but I understand the need for safety.

Instead, we went straight to the park and checked into our lodge. We stayed in the park itself, at The Lodge at Mammoth Cave. While the cabins were rustic, they were perfect for out family. There was running water and electricity, but no air conditioning or TVs. It was perfect for this trip.

Since our day had to be rearranged, we went to the cave and arranged a tour. The earliest we could get was at 2:30 pm, so once we got tickets, we loaded back into the car and headed north. While it was not part of our original itinerary, it turns out that Abraham Lincoln’s birthplace is only an hour from Mammoth Cave.

This might have actually been my favorite part of the trip. The kids were able to stamp their passport books and get Junior Ranger badges, and we were all able to see the cabin in which Lincoln was born. In memory of old #16, a monument with 56 steps has been built and enshrines the cabin. The visitor’s center has a great video and there is a lot to see. While this was not part of original plan, I think it ended up being just as worthwhile as any other part of our trip.

Once we finished the tour, we turned around and headed back to Mammoth Cave. The only major COVID restriction in the park is that only one, self-guided tour of the caves is available. There are actually dozens of different tours, and if they were available, I think we would have done one each day. That said, the self guided historic tour is quite impressive, and gives park-goers a really well-rounded, broad cave experience.

I plan to touch more on the cave itself as we go on, but suffice it to say that Mammoth Cave is one of the most awe-inspiring things that I have ever seen. I relate it to an underground version of the Grand Canyon, and while it does not receive the same notoriety, it is something that every American should see.

After finishing the tour, we headed north again to a distillery that is part of the craft bourbon trail. Kentucky is well-known for producing some of the finest bourbon in the world, so my wife and I felt we would be remiss to not experience it. The Boundary Oak Distillery is also only about an hour north of Mammoth Cave. It is a small operation, but really well done.

My wife and I paid $8 a person for a tasting, which included six different bourbons, while the kids spent some time on their iPads. Boundary offers several different house-made bourbons that are each distinct, and are sold in bottles featuring icons from American history, including Abraham Lincoln and General Patton.

We ate at a BBQ place called Mark’s Feed Store. This is a local chain, and to say that the staff was friendly is an understatement. Frankly, I hope that people from Louisiana treat visitors as well as the Kentuckians; a more hospitable group would be hard to find. The food was great, and was really a perfect way to end our first day in bluegrass state.

We woke up early on Sunday and set out for a quick hike. One of the great things about Mammoth Cave NP is that it offers dozens of miles of above ground trails appropriate for all ages, in addition to the underground wonders. We combined the River Styx Spring Trail, the Green River Trail and the Dixon Cave trail to make about 1.5 mile trail that offered beautiful views of the river and another smaller cave entrance in the area.

Around noon, we drove to the Double J Stables, where the kids and I did a five mile horse ride through the north end of the park. One of my main goals on these trips is to continue to familiarize the kids with outdoor living. Getting them on the water, getting them on a horse, getting them on the trails is something that I hope builds character and helps them to grow to be well-rounded adults.

We drove back, and at the suggestion of the guides from the stables, embarked upon the Sinkhole Trail. Aside from the cave itself, this was the most striking thing we saw. It was 1.5 miles round trip, but included over 150 stairs. The entire area is a sinkhole, and this trails leads all the way down to the bottom whilst staying above ground. It was definitely more taxing than any of our other hikes, but the payoff was fantastic.

There are not a whole lot of restaurants in the area, but we initially found what sounded like a decent steak house. I am a bit embarrassed to say that when we found out that they did not serve alcohol, we decided to go elsewhere. Say what you like, but sometimes, you just need to be able to sit down and have a drink. We found a Mexican restaurant called El Mazatlan, and while it was nothing special, it hit the spot. We actually saw several other families that were staying in the park eating there as well.

On Monday, our flight was not until the early afternoon, so we made a reservation for a zip line tour with Adventures of Mammoth Cave. The actual tour was great, but the guides showed up 45 minutes late, to the point that we almost left. My wife and kids said it was worth the wait though, so I guess we cannot complain too much.

While the three of them zipped through the sky, the baby and I set off on our own adventure, a short hike nearby, less than half a mile, called the Sand Cave Trail. Shocking enough, this trail leads to the entrance of Sand Cave. Of note, one can only go to the entrance but not inside, as several years ago, a man became trapped and actually died in the Sand Cave. It seems to me like the cave should have been renamed after that, but those decisions are not mine to make. That said, this is an easy trail with a cool payoff at the end, so I definitely recommend it if you are looking to add something.

I picked up the rest of the family, and we headed back to Tennessee. We had a bit of time, so instead of stopping in Nashville, we went through to Murfreesboro where we stopped at the Stones Creek National Battlefield. We did a short driving tour, and the kids got their passports stamped. We inquired about the Junior Ranger program, but the rangers present were not particularly helpful or friendly, so we decided to go without.

The flight home was uneventful, which is always nice with a three-month old, and we made it home safely. I recall having a great time at Mammoth Cave as a six year old, and this trip did not disappoint. The cave is beautiful, and the surrounding area provided us with plenty extra to do. If you are looking for an easy but memorable trip, Mammoth Cave should definitely be on your list.

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Orange Beach in Turquoise

This is the fourth year in a row that my family has spent the Labor Day weekend in Gulf Shores, Alabama. This area is actually comprised of several different regions, and we have recently stayed in Orange Beach. Each of the past four years, we have gone down with two or three of our friends from college, all of whom have younger kids, and have stayed at a beautiful complex called Turquoise.

The resort is comprised of two high-rise buildings (we were on the 12 floor this year) overlooking the Gulf of Mexico. It also has a gym, a restaurant and bar, indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts and a lazy river. One member of our group does his best to not leave the Turquoise the entire time, and if that is what you are looking for, it is not difficult.

In the past, we have gone with three other couples, but this year, only two could attend. We booked the condo about two months out, for about $1,200/couple for three nights. Since our families are getting bigger, we went with a four bedroom, but could have squeezed into a three. The condos are fully furnished, with large bedrooms, bathrooms and living spaces. The wrap around balconies have grills and hot tubs, and are just as much a draw as anything else.

One of the main draws for us is that Orange Beach is less than four hours from New Orleans. Prior to leaving, we coordinate with our group on who is bringing what, in terms of food. We load up the car on Friday afternoon and get out of Dodge as fast as possible. Since this is a heavy travel time, we try to leave as early, but the tunnel at Mobile always gets backed up for about half an hour (if you are willing to cut in line, you can drive most of the way at a steady pace in the right lane and cut over in the last mile).

Once we arrive and unpack, we call down to the beach and reserve chairs and umbrellas. These go fast, so you want to book them early, as they are a must in terms of having a place to relax and stay cool by the water.

On Day 1, Friday, we spend a lot of time in the car and a lot time unpacking. We try to eat most of our meals in the condo, and when we do a three night trip with three couples, we try to each take responsibility for one night. On the first night, we ordered pizza, which is easy because every American likes pizza. You have to order early though, because it can sometimes take an hour and a half to get the food delivered.

After that, once it got dark, we took the kids down the boardwalk to the beach to go ghost crab hunting. The kids used to be scared to pick the little crustaceans up themselves, but the older kids, including JR and Eileen, have gotten adventurous enough to go for it themselves. They are fun to catch, and the kids love looking at them in the buckets, but we always let them go after a few minutes of captivity.

One Days 2, we ate breakfast in the condo and headed down to the beach. The sand in Gulf shores is soft and pure white, and really fun to play in. The water is clear, but not as clear as a place like Destin. It was also a bit jellyfish heavy this weekend, which made our kids a bit skittish. Frankly, anytime anything brushes against their leg in the ocean, they think its a jellyfish, but because of this, they usually only last an hour or two in the ocean at any given time.

Once they’d exhausted themselves, we headed up to the pool, where they played until lunch. The pool is great, as it never gets deeper than a few feet, so kids our age require minimal supervision. At noon, we ate a quick lunch in the condo, and then headed out to a nearby boat rental company called Happy Harbor.

One of the coolest features about Gulf Shores is that it features access to both the gulf and the bay. On the bay side, you can participate in all sorts of water sports. We rented a pontoon boat, which we were able to drive ourselves (with almost no experience) that had a slide coming off the back of it. The rental was $350 for four hours and was totally worth it.

We took the boat into the bay from the harbor to a restaurant/bar called Pirate’s Cove. It is only a few miles away by water, but it took us quite a while to get there. The motor on the boat was only 60 horsepower, so it felt like we were crawling, but we eventually made it.

Pirate’s Cove is a restaurant that you can dock at and get drinks, food, use a bathroom or just hang out. When we arrived, it was packed, to the point that we almost didn’t stay, but a boat pulled out right in front of us, so we sneaked in. Once we docked, several people got bushwhackers, a unique, Alabama, alcoholic milkshake, and the kids started using the slide.

The slide attracted a lot of attention, and by the time we left, a half dozen other kids, who were screened only by asking if their parents knew where they were and can they swim, had gone up and down several times. We stayed for about half an hour and then cruised back. This is a great way to add some variety to a beach heavy vacation, especially with the older kids.

That night, we grilled in the condo. We brought a few sausages, cubed cheese and crackers, as well as barbecue seasoning and sauce from the Bar-B-Q Shop in Memphis. For me, this is the best seasoning in the world, and when you grill a sausage, slice it thin, put it on a cracker with cheese, the sauce and the seasoning, there’s little that can go wrong. We also grilled steaks and had twice-baked potatoes. Making these nights in the condo an event helps to make the vacation seem more significant, it makes it seem like it lasts longer.

On Day 3, Sunday, we went down to the beach early again and this time, spent almost three hours playing in the ocean and building sand castles. Prior to coming to the beach, we bought a waterproof sling that allows you to go into the water with the baby, but still have access to both hands. This makes going into the ocean with an infant, and with young kids, a lot more manageable.

On Sunday, we decided to go out for lunch. In the past, we have gone to a place called The Gulf, which offers multiple vendors and great options for everyone, as well as waterfront views. This year we went to Cobalt, which has a big menu, solid food and really cool outdoor patio with views of the bay. While we like to eat most of our meals in the condo, going out once is a nice change of pace.

That afternoon, we went back to the beach and then back to pool. The complex offers sno-balls (or as non-New Orleanians call them, snow cones) poolside, and our kids took full advantage. That night, we had chips, queso and margaritas, and we made ground beef tacos.

We brought several games with us this trip, but never got to playing any, which is a good sign, as we were too busy with other adventures. I personally spent a lot of time reading on the balcony and reading on the beach, and for those of you that enjoy a book, this beach is a great option. In past years, we’ve done several other things, including taking the kids to an arcade or going to Lambert’s.

On the morning of Day 4, we usually get up early and make our way home. If we leave after 9, it can take hours to get out of Gulf Shores and through Mobile. The other option is to vacate the room at checkout time but stay at the pool for several hours. If you don’t leave early or you stay late, you end up spending hours in the car.

As an addendum, less than two week after our trip, Hurricane Sally hit Gulf Shores and devastated much of the area. We are hopeful that they will be able to regroup and rebuild, and that we will be able to go back next year for another amazing Labor Day.