This July, we met my parents and three brother on the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe, in Stateline, for a week. We stayed in a VRBO on top of a mountain near the Heavenly Ski Resort. It was sold as a ski-in, ski-out, so it is primarily for winter use, but it made for a great summer home. It was basically two different three story units attached to one another, which worked well for our group of fourteen.
Lake Tahoe is quite expansive, so you have to plan what you do, what to see and where to eat based upon how much time you are willing to spend in the car. Getting up and down our mountain took a solid fifteen minutes, so that included, everything we did was at least half an hour away, so we really had to make the most of our time.
Hikes
Cascade Falls: I believe this was my favorite trail that we took on our trip. It is 1.3 miles out-and-back and does include some strenuous uphills and some scrambling. The effort is completely worth it. At the top, you find dozens of small cascades that you can play around in before they become a large waterfall. Not only do you get a great view of Lake Tahoe, but there is another, more secluded lake which is spectacular. Parking can be difficult, but going either early or later in the day can help.
Cave Rock: This is a short, popular hike with extremely limited parking. The initial approach is simple, but the end is a relatively vertical climb. This trail is most popular at sunset, so gets very crowded, but if you are willing to get there early, you can dangle your feet over the lake and watch the sun drop below the mountains.
Horsetail Falls: This is a great hike, but a good distance from where we were staying. It is hard time find exactly where this trail starts, but look for the Pyramid Peak parking lot. When you start up, I strongly suggest using AllTrails, because while the trail is marked, it is over a lot of stones, so it is not always clear where the pathway is. The best thing to do is follow the falls up, where you can find several small pools to swim in. Getting all the way to falls is difficult, and something we did not accomplish, but you get cool views of it all the way up.
Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake: This trail was by far the most difficult to park at. It is on the other side of the road from Emerald Bay, and there are multiple smaller lots, but we had to circle a lot to get a spot around 9:30 am. The hike up is two part, the first going along to Upper Eagle Falls, the second reaching an amazing mountain like. You should definitely go all the way. The trail was too difficult for my parents, but we made it with just a little difficulty.
Excurions
Clear Kayak Lake Tour: Tahoe Paddle Sports offers a really fun tour of Tahoe on the Nevada side. The clear kayaks are great and our guide was fantastic. It is not a super exhilarating, high-energy tour, but it was very relaxing and a nice way to see parts of the lake.
Rafting the American River: This was done through a friend of my brothers but is definitely something you should look into. It took us over an hour to reach the initial launch spot, but it was worth it. We basically did two tours. The older, more adventurous of us started at the top and took on some class 3+ rapids. We met the kids and grandparents halfway down, who joined us for a leisurely float for the rest of the day.
Boat Rental: Out of the Ski Run Marina, we rented two speed boats and a tube, each able to hold seven people. It was a lot of fun tossing the kids around on the tube and exploring the lake. It was also a good way to see Emerald Bay and get a close up look Fannette Island and the Tea House.
Beaches
Emerald Bay: Getting down to the Emerald Bay beach includes a solid 1 mile hike, once you’ve won the battle for parking. The hike is downhill, so super easy on the way down, not so much on the way up. The Vikingsholm House is at the bottom, so that is fun to see, and there are several vendors who rent things like kayaks and SUPs. If you’ve got the stamina for it, this trip is worth the walk.
Round Hill Pines: This is the beach where we spent a solid four or five hours. It doesn’t get nearly as crowded as some of the other options, but it just as impressive. The beach is gritty, but that is normal in the area, and there’s a restaurant and bar. We were also able to rent chairs, an umbrella and two jet skis for an hour.
Where We Ate
South of North Brewing Co: This brewery has decent food and decent beer and absolutely no parking. Our main reason for going was a Wednesday night trivia, which we won.
Artemis Lakefront Cafe: This Mediterranean restaurant is right on the water and kind of expensive. That said, the food was good, the view was great, and it was very convenient.
Riva Grill on the Lake: Riva is in the same Ski Run marina as Artemis. I prefer the former. Riva does have a great view, and the food was fine, but way over-priced with mediocre service.
Base Camp Pizza: This is a cool pizza place in the most popular part of town. It was good, but our favorite part was the large number of great appetizers they offered.
If you’ve never been to a ski town in the summer, you ought to consider it. We went to Breckinridge a few years ago and felt the same way. There is a lot to do and usually all sorts of great hikes. I usually try to offer advice at the end of our posts, things that I would do differently, but I really don’t have much to say. It wasn’t my favorite vacation ever, but it really was a lot of fun.
Those of you paying super close attention will note that this is actually two separate blog entries, one for Death Valley and one for Valley of Fire. We actually visited these over the same trip, as well as see Hoover Dam, the Lake Mead National Recreation Area and a Golden Knights games, but for the purposes of this blog, I think it is easier to separate the two Valleys into their own posts.
Over the Mardi Gras break this year, we decided to take the kids out west, again, to see one of the country’s lesser visited National Parks. Death Valley is a below-sea-level basin in constant drought that records summer heat extremes higher than anywhere else in North America.
It takes about two hours to get there from Vegas and is legitimately in the middle of nowhere. Our arrival time was well into the dark of night, which was actually pretty spectacular, as the star-scape is pretty unreal.
We did a lot of planning to figure out exactly how much time we needed, and we settled on basically two full days. I believe one full day could have been enough, and I believe we could have filled more time on a third day, but for us, 36-48 hours seemed like the sweet spot.
Where to Stay:
We stay at The Ranch is Death Valley, which is also associated with the Oasis. This is a great resort. We had a two room cabin that easily slept five and access to all sorts of amenities. The Ranch has a golf course, spring-fed pool that is warm year round, two restaurants, horseback riding, a general store, a museum, a playground, oh, and wifi.
The resort alone makes it worth it to stay a few days. That said, the restaurants are pretty expensive, and the food is more than pretty mediocre. I’d give the resort itself 5-stars with an addendum, giving the restaurants 2. That said, there aren’t a lot of alternatives in the area, so options are limited.
The Ranch is in the Furnace Creek area, which is more or less centrally located. There is another area, which is even more central, that one can stay, called Stovepipe Wells, but it is not nearly as quaint.
What to Do:
Horseback Ride: The Ranch offers several rides into the park, including sunrise and sunset. We did a sunrise tour and frankly, it was kind of a disappointment. The ride was fine, and the views were great, but I can’t say that it was really worth the effort.
Zabriski Point: This is a great introductory overlook into the vastness of Death Valley. It is an easy walk up from a parking lot and the views of the colored hills are pretty impressive.
Badwater Basin: This is the lowest point in North America and is why most people come. The drive takes about half an hour and is definitely worth it. You reach a basin that occasionally has an inch of water in it that you can walk out on; it gives the appearance of walking on water. At this stage in 2024, there was actually far more water than normal, due to Hurricane Sandy, so it actually wasn’t as impressive as we’d hoped. There were several areas though where we could walk out onto the salt flats, which is why we came.
Devils Golf Course: This is a really interested formation of rock and salt that would be an awful place to try to play golf. There is a road down that leads to a parking lot, but during our trip, the road was closed (it’s not clear why), so it was a 2 mile out-and-back to see anything of interest. I am not actually sure this is worth the walk, but the ‘golf course’ itself is pretty interested.
Gold Canyon Hike: The way we did this hike was from the Golden Canyon parking lot, and was about 4.5 miles. There are several intersecting trails that can make it far shorter or far longer, depending on what you want to do a see. The walk through the canyons and up the mountains is amazing, but strenuous. I recommend going clockwise, as you get the toughest section done in the first two miles and get to enjoy or more leisurely pace as you see the golden hills contrasted against the red and green rocks.
Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes: There is an unusual, almost out-of-place, set of sand dunes near the Stovepipe Wells area, which is about half an hour from furnace creek. It is a popular place to watch the sunset, but there are so many dunes that it is easy to find your own personal dune to watch the god-flame set.
Ubehebe Crater: The crater is a solid hour-plus drive from the main areas of the park, but it is worth it. One of the interesting things about this NP is the varying topography, and the fact that a giant volcanic crater is part of the mix is pretty cool. You can drive up to it and hike all the way around for some cool views. I am not sure the hike is necessary, but it is a lovely area.
Mosaic Canyon: This is another worthwhile hike, about 3 miles out and back. It is uphill on the way in, but the grade is not too severe. I recommend it, but if you are pressed for time, the best parts of the hike are in the first half to full mile, so if you don’t make it all the way until the end, you won’t be missing out on much.
What We Didn’t Do:
Dante’s View: Unfortunately, this part of the park was closed due to recent flooding, but I understanding the view to be pretty impressive. That said, it sounds very similar to Zabriski Point, so I am not too devastated at having missed it.
20 Mule Team Canyon: This is supposed to be a very scenic drive in an historic area, but again was closed, due to recent flooding.
Artist’s Drive/Palette: This being closed was a real disappointment. It is supposed to be the best place to view the varying colors of the rock formations, ideally about an hour prior to sunset. It was a good learning experience for the kids, that sometimes things happen that you can’t change, and there are plenty of other places to see rocks a shockingly unusual color, but not getting to see it did suck.
Racetrack Playa: This was actually open, but we made the conscious decision not to go. The turn-off for the Racetrack is at the Ubehebe Crater parking lot, but says that it requires a high-clearance, 4-wheel drive vehicle. I have heard that most SUVs can handle it, and I think ours could have, but you are an awfully long way from nothing, with no cell service, if something goes wrong. This is the area where you can see the rocks apparently move on their own. If we ever go back, I think we’ll try to get a better car, but for this time around, oh well.
What We Learned
It depends on what you want to do, but Death Valley can be done pretty well in just a day. That said, if we really dived into what the The Ranch has to offer, I think we could have stayed there for three or four. I would definitely recommend getting a car that can handle the Racetrack Playa drive, which can be rented in the Furnace Creek area if needed.
I do not think I will be putting DV in my top 10 National Parks, and frankly, it might actually be towards the bottom, but the family and I had a great time. It is definitely something every Parks fan should see and given the opportunity, I would definitely go again.
The second part of our trip took place in another valley (of Fire). Take a look at our next post for more information about this incredible State Park.
Since our initial RV trip through the Southwest in 2019, the Traveling Igoes have been itching to get back in a big rig and hit the open road. We had big plans for 2020, but a certain virus had even bigger ones.
When 2021 finally came along, and we all got vaccinated (at least those who could), we rebooted our travel plans. I had never been to Yosemite before, and no one in my immediate family had ever visited Oregon, so we decided this was the perfect opportunity.
The planning for a trip like this is pretty labor intensive, and by the end, we had about 70 pages worth of itinerary put together. After picking the dates, the next thing to do was pick the route. We decided to fly into San Francisco and pick up a recreation vehicle. From there, we would drive north along the coast through Redwood Forest, into Oregon and Crater Lake. We would then head back south through Lassen Volcanic National Park and Yosemite, and finish back in San Fran.
Beyond that, the trip would lie in the details. Once we figured out our dates (11 days in total) and our course, the next thing to do was to find the right rig. Two years ago, we found a great RV through Outdoorsy, so that’s where we started. We actually found the perfect fit for our family. A 24 foot truck with no slide outs, with unlimited mileage and generator use included. Unfortunately, about a month prior to leaving, this RV flooded, and our proprietor had to cancel.
Outdoorsy helped us find another option, which was a very similar 24′ Winnebago, the only difference being that this one was made in 1999. It had almost all 5-star reviews save one, that claimed it was old, dingy and worn down, and at this point, we had very few options. When we arrived, it seemed that all the reviews were accurate. Gertie (as we named her) was a reliable old bird with countless dings, scratches and stains. That said, she ran well, stopped alright and got us from point A to point B on time.
We landed in San Francisco, picked up Gertie and headed north. Our first stop was at the Full House house in the heart of the city. My daughter, a huge fan of Fuller House, was very excited. I found it rather pointless, but the main reason we take these trips is to bring joy to our kids, so if it makes Eileen happy, I can spare 30 minutes.
From there, we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and stopped on the north side for a picture. It was really impressive, shrouded in fog, but this point was also one of my biggest regrets. On the south side of the bridge is Fort Point, a spot where the kids can get their passport books stamped. We missed the turnoff, and in Gertie, it was too hard to make our way back. It was still really cool, but I not getting that stamp will eat at me.
We loaded back up and headed another hour north to Muir Woods. What a great introduction to what we were going to see. The approach was a big white knuckle-y in an RV, but once we got there, we realized how worthwhile is Muir Woods. Protected since 1908, this primeval forest is both refuge and laboratory, filled with old growth Redwoods reaching for the sun. In order to access this site at the time, parking reservations are needed, so definitely look into getting these well in advance. We did not spend a ton of time in Muir, but it was a great appetizer for a trip filled with some of the most amazing trees in the world.
Our next stop was at the Olema Campground, an RV park with easy access to Point Reyes National Seashore. This site had electrical hook ups, but nothing else, but for this trip, that was something. For those of you unfamiliar, RVs can hook up to electricity, water and a dumping station. While this is not vital, having hook ups does make life quite a bit easier.
In the morning, we met up with our guide, Frank, in Point Reyes, for what he refers to as a Point Reyes Safari. We followed him throughout the park, riding behind him in our truck, visiting various different parts of the site. We first visited the Cypress Tree Tunnel, which is really impressive, and something similar to what you see at old southern plantations.
From there, he took us to the Point Reyes Lighthouse. It was very unexpected how cool this would be. It is a trek to get there, and I doubt we would have done it if not for Frank, but if you go, this is the must-see part of Point Reyes. This lighthouse is so cool and so remote, it feels like something out of a fantasy novel.
The only thing I will say is that it was not super clear what we had gotten ourselves into with the safari. We thought it was going to be something like an off-road, UTV tour. Instead, we were following a Subaru around in our RV. It ended up being great; we saw plenty of elk and coyotes, but it is not exactly what I thought it was going to be.
Once we finished at Point Reyes, being sure to get our books stamped, we drove to the south end of Redwood National Park and spent the night at Gold Bluffs Beach Campground. This was by far the most amazing site in which we stayed. It was right on the beach, and the seascape looked like something out of a painting. The site recommended no vehicles larger than 24 feet, which worked for us, but I think they were being generous. The approach was extremely treacherous, there were no hook-ups, and we felt super out of place around all the small tents.
We made it through the night though, and headed for Fern Canyon. This hidden gem is wild to the point that parts of Jurassic Park were actually filmed here. The canyon is covered wall to wall with greenery, and can really only be called jaw-dropping. It is not simple to access, but it is certainly worth the effort. If you want to experience something that few have, something very different than anything I have ever seen, Fern Canyon is a great place to start.
We made our way out of the canyon and stopped at another one of the can’t-miss spots in Redwoods, Trillium Falls Trail. This is approximately a 2.5 mile loop which leads to a cool, but small waterfall. You should not let the size of the fall deter you, however, as this trail is beautiful start to finish. The one thing I would suggest is to start in the direction that has you finishing with the falls instead of starting with it. Saving the payoff for the end makes this trail all the more worthwhile.
We stopped at the Elk Creek Visitor Center to get our books stamped and pick up the Junior Ranger packets. This packet was straight forward, and the kids were able to finish it that day. Our next stop up the road was at the Trees of Mystery. The trip through the vast Redwood National and State Park area is littered with roadside attractions, and Trees of Mystery really caught our attention.
It is definitely a little kitschy and touristy, in sort of a Gravity Falls type of way, but my son really loved it. There are several aerial walkways that take you up into the trees, a bunch of really cool carvings out of the Paul Bunyan legend and a sky-tram that takes you several hundred feet up into the mountains. There is also a perfectly serviceable restaurant attached, which for those eating out of an RV fridge, really hit the spot. There was nothing overwhelmingly great about the Trees of Mystery, but my 9 year-old son really like it, and it was a welcome break from all the hiking (and driving).
We got back on the road and stopped at the north end of the park, at the Hiouchi Visitor Center, where the kids picked up their first of four National Park Junior Ranger badges. We spent that night in a KOA, with full hook ups, which was a nice break (and the only one). We have really enjoyed the KOAs in our two RV trips. The sites are not usually as unique or memorable, but it is nice to have a full set amenities. It makes roughing it in a camper not quite so rough.
The following morning, we met up with the guide from Redwood Rides, who took Eileen, JR and I kayaking on the Smith River. Clara was too young to go, so Alyson took her for a hike while we hit the water. JR and I were in a tandem kayak, which worked out well for him, whilst Eileen was on her own.
As this was the dry season, the river was not too high or too fast, but it was very scenic and a lot of fun. At one point, we stopped at a rock that Eileen jumped off of, and at another, we took a hike through Stout Grove, which was pretty impressive. I have been on more exciting rivers before, but had we been there in April or May, I think the water would have been a lot faster.
At this point, it was time to cross the border and mark off another state for our entire family. That afternoon, we crossed into Oregon for the first time for all of us. Our first stop was at a little visited Parks site, the Oregon Caves National Monument. I am a huge fan of caves, so I was really looking forward to this visit, but unfortunately, it was an extraordinary disappointment.
The caves only recently reopened and require guided, ticketed tours. At this stage, the tickets are only available day of, and cannot be purchased in advance. When we arrived, all of the tickets for the day were sold out. I understand the need for social distancing, but as we walked a decent hike in the park, it became clear that total, there were no more than 10 people in the entire area. Further, only offering tickets first come, first serve makes it nearly impossible for anyone from out of the area to visit. I wish I could say we will go back someday, but it does not seem very likely. Out of everything we did this trip, this was by far our biggest letdown.
We made our way from the Caves of Disappointment northwest towards Crater Lake, and stayed the night in Mazama Campground. This camp was very rustic, but it provided great access to the park. The next morning, we loaded up the RV and headed into Crater Lake.
Crater Lake is arguably the most beautiful place that I have ever been. That said, there is not actually all that much to do there. We drove the rim, which is about 30 miles around, and offers multiple amazing viewpoints. We stopped at one of the more frequently used trails, the Cleetwood Cove, which leads from the rim down to the lake itself.
During regular times, this is where you can pick up the boat that tours that lake and takes passengers all the way to Wizard Island. Due to COVID, it is not running this year; had it been, this certainly would have added something extra to our visit. The Cleetwood trail is beautiful, but the way back up, in particular, is extremely strenuous.
We followed this by completing our Junior Ranger packets and getting badges for the kids. We then traveled about an hour south to Crater Lake Ziplines. Eileen and JR love ziplining, so we always try to work this into our trips, if it’s possible.
Crater Lake Ziplines actually requires that you break yourself, so JR was not old enough to do the big zips. That said, they offer a smaller course for kids under 10 and under 70 pounds. He was a little disappointed, but once he got over himself, he seemed to have a great time. If you ask Eileen, she will tell you this was her favorite part of our entire vacation.
We spent another night in Mazama, then headed south back to California. Our next two stops were definitely my two favorite. Our first was at Lava Beds National Monument. This was a late addition to our itinerary, so we were not really sure what to expect. Frankly, it blew me away.
I think everyone else enjoyed it, but I loved this site. I could have spent an entire week exploring this vast network of caves. Volcanic eruptions in this area from past millennia have created a rugged, unique landscape with over 800 caves. We only had time to explore two, the Mudpot and Valentine caves. These caves, former lava tubes, are different than caves like Mammoth or Oregon, and are each unique. The park rates them based upon difficulty, so the two we did were more kid friendly. Like I said, I love a good cave, and could have spent a week at Lava Beds, but we had to move on.
The next stop on our whirlwind tour was Lassen Volcanic National Park. Compared to the other three National Parks we hit, I knew very little about Lassen, but have to say that of the four big parks, I enjoyed it the most. When we arrived, we went straight from the Visitor Center to the Kings Creek Trail. This is a hike that goes on for miles, but about 1.5 miles in, you realize why you came. The trail follows Kings Creek as it meanders across the park, and a great stopping point is the Kings Creek Falls, a stunning cataract that you can explore almost to the very precipice. On the way back, I strongly encourage you to take the left hand, one-way trail. While it is a tough climb up a few hundred stairs, it is one of the best parts of the hike.
We spent that night in the Manzanita Lake Campground, another rustic RV park, but it gave us great, quick access to Lassen. The following morning, we headed back into the park, turned in our packets for Junior Ranger badges, and went straight to the Bumpass Hell trailhead. My son was very excited about this, as, according to him, the name contains two swear words.
This trail is about a three-mile round trip, and while the hike is not as stunning as Kings Creek, the payoff is equally as impressive. Bumpass Hell is a live area of geothermal activity. It reminded me a lot of Yellowstone; there are boiling mudpots, acidic pools and sulfur fumes everywhere. It is a really stunning site, and it makes one wonder how long it must have taken Mr. Bumpass to find it so many years ago. We all loved our visit, and if I had to pick one National Park to go to, it would be Lassen.
We left Bumpass and Lassen, and headed into Chico, where we met my uncle for lunch at Nash’s. It was great to see family, and on a trip like this, getting the opportunity to eat something for lunch other than turkey on white bread was a welcome change of pace.
The next leg of our trip finally brought us to the grand prize, Yosemite. This park is a spectacular gem on the ring finger of the National Parks system. The valley is about as cool a place as you will find anywhere in the U.S. That said, we went in what is really the off season, so a lot of the water had dried up. While it may have been the off season, it was also extremely crowded, and in some ways, reminded me more of Disneyworld than a National Park.
Our first two hikes were Lower and Upper Yosemite Falls. The lower falls was still a trickle, but unfortunately, the Upper was completely dry. The hike on the Upper Falls trail, to Columbia Rock, is still a great one, with an amazing view of Half Dome, but it is quite strenuous.
After this, we spent sometime in Yosemite Village and picked up our Junior Ranger packets. This was one of my biggest frustrations. Since we started with our passport books and Junior Ranger badges, we have visited 47 National Park sites. Thus far, Yosemite has been the only park to charge for them. As this is one of the most visited parks in the world, I found this to be completely ridiculous, and certainly let the park rangers there know how I felt.
We left the park that afternoon, only about a mile out, to go horseback riding. All the guided tours inside the park are currently suspended, but this trail ride right on the perimeter was really cool, with several river crossings. The guides from Yosemite Trail Rides really did a great job.
We spent that night in Yosemite, in the Wawona Campgound. This site was actually pretty mediocre, but it is within the park, so that was a big bonus. On week days, the wait to get in can be up to an hour, and on weekends, up to three, so skipping those lines was worth roughing it a bit.
The next day, we took the Mist Trail up to Vernal Falls, and this was pretty amazing. If you stop at Vernal Falls, it’s about 3 miles in and out, with the last portion being 650 very steep steps. It is definitely worth it though, as this waterfall is nothing short of spectacular. During the spring, I understand that it is common for people to get quite soaked on the trail, but even during the dry season, the fall was still a sight.
We spent the afternoon on rented bikes taking a self-guided 8 mile tour of the Valley, then headed back to camp and packed up the RV for departure. We awoke early the next morning and drove back to San Francisco, ready to leave Gertie behind.
It is important to note for those not familiar with RVing that when you return the rig, it is expected that it be full of gas and propane, but emptied of everything else. When we got back, our proprietor was very gracious, and while Gertie was not always the easiest rig to drive, she got us there and back, so I have no regrets.
We took an Uber to the Intercontinental San Francisco, a hotel that is walking distance to Oracle Park, and we headed to the Giants game. We find it nice to give the kids a break from all the hiking and outdoors-ing with something a bit more cosmopolitan. We all love watching baseball, and going to new stadiums is a lot of fun. The Giants beat the Astros, and the game featured 7 home runs, which was a lot of fun. Oracle Park is pretty cool, with the bay just beyond the right field wall, but honestly, I was less impressed than I thought I would be.
We left early the next morning and made it back to New Orleans in time to start laundry. I had to work the next day, but the kids slept much later than normal. This was the type of vacation that almost requires a follow up vacation. An RV trip is amazing, but it is also exhausting. It is a great way to spend time with your family and to see vast parts of the country in one fell swoop. If you are planning one or even considering it, please reach out. I am happy to share the things that worked for us and those that didn’t. Until then, we’ll see you next time the Igoes go a-traveling.
