Tag: national park

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Great Basin, Great Vacation

This year for Fall Break, we decided to head back to Nevada (our third time this year) to explore one of the country’s lesser visited National Parks, Great Basin. The park is over four hours from Vegas and three hours from Salt Lake. Flights being what they were, we flew into LAS, rented a car and headed north.

Aside from the travel arrangements, another reason we flew into Las Vegas was that Cathedral Gorge State Park is on the drive up. In the west, one must keep in mind that there are a plethora of state parks, some as impressive as their National Park neighbors.

What We Did

Cathedral Gorge State Park: we drove up Friday night and hit the park the next morning. We only spent about four hours there, which was enough, and it was a great four hours.

The Juniper Draw Loop is just over 3 miles and is one of the most popular trails in the park. If you plan to do the whole thing, I recommend going clockwise, as this saves all the best parts for the end.

If you are not wanting to do the whole hike, you can go clockwise and just go up to Miller Point, which is a steep climb offering great views of the park. You can also drive straight to the overlook, if you are not interested in the walk.

I also recommend, on this end of the loop, Cathedral Caves. While the ‘caves’ in Cathedral Gorge are actually slot canyons, they are really cool, and our kids loved climbing through them.

If you liked the Cathedral Caves, I strongly recommend the Moon Caves. This is a slightly different area with equally impressive slot canyons. There were a few areas that only my kids could fit into, which they found really exciting (and Alyson and I found really nerve wracking). Both Eileen and JR said this was their favorite part of our entire trip.

Great Basin National Park

Visitors Center: Great Basin has two VCs, Lehman and GB, and I recommend visiting both. The Lehman VC has an attached cafe with a much better gift shop attached.

Astronomy Program: Great Basin is a certified dark sky park, so people flock from all around to check out the star. We went to a ranger led program that was great. The skies were amazing, and one of the telescopes showed Saturn clear to the point that the rings were actually visible through the lens. It is a later night, and it was hard for our four year-old to sit through, but it was worth it.

Wheeler Scenic Drive: This drive up the mountain takes you past several great overlooks, including one of Nevada’s only glacier, and goes by most of the trails you will want to hike. It is also a good way to see all the changing leaves if you are there at the right time.

Alpine Lakes Loop: This 3-ish mile loop is at the termination of Wheel Drive and is one of the park’s most popular. We went counterclockwise, but I didn’t really see a lot of advantages to one way or the other. Frankly, I wasn’t as impressed with this hike as I had hoped. It goes by two alpine lakes, but at this time of year, my daughter suggested they were more like alpine ponds. It was a good trek but not particularly mind blowing.

If you don’t have young kids and/or are feeling like you need more, the Bristlecone Pine and Glacier Trails branch of the loop, but they add a lot of extra mileage.

Lehman Caves: This was my favorite part of our trip. We took a guided, 60 minute tour that revealed all sorts of great features in this living cave. I love a good cave, and this might be my favorite that we’ve toured in a National Park.

Strawberry Creek Road: To access this, you have to leave the park and drive north, then follow a dirt road back in. We were the only people for miles, which was pretty fantastic. At the end of the road, we did a 1-mile loop that goes along Strawberry Creek. This was a nice trail, but again, not all that amazing, except that we saw a family of deer, including a 10-point buck, which made it all worthwhile.

Where We Stayed

Swallow Cove B&B: There aren’t a lot of options to stay near Cathedral Gorge, which is why this place was such a pleasant surprise. We had a great room with plenty of space for five, and homemade breakfast in the morning. One of the best amenities was the key-less entry. We arrive late, so the host simply texted us the instructions. We had a completely contact-free check-in and check-out.

Hidden Canyon Retreat: This place is fantastic. There are also few lodging options for Great Basin, and this one is actually the further of the two. That said, it appeared to be the far better choice. The approach is a 6-mile dirt road, but once you’ve done it once, it is far less daunting. The room was great with a fully functioning kitchen. We bought supplies and cooked dinner both nights in our room. There’s a heated pool, a hot tub, several grills, a convenience store and several friendly animals (including a 5-point buck). Recently, our best experiences have been the ones where we really liked our lodging, and Hidden Canyon did not disappoint.

Where We Ate

Historic Silver Cafe: On the way out of Cathedral Gorge, we stopped at the Silver Cafe, the older cafe in Nevada. The food was decent, and they were showing college football, so it was a good experience. If there were other options, and it wasn’t historic, I am not sure we would’ve stopped, but there was nothing significant about which to complain.

Sugar, Salt & Malt: We ate here for lunch on Saturday, and it was solid. We all got sandwiches that hit the spot, and everyone was very friendly. The dinner menu looked interesting, but due to staffing issues, they were only open for lunch during our stay. There was also a note about the owners selling the establishment, but it was not clear whether that is a recent development or has already happened. Whether or not it is there when you go, I can’t say for sure. There are not a lot of options for food in Great Basin, so do your research and plan ahead.

Able Baker Brewing: This brewery is actually in Vegas, and is where we stopped for lunch on Monday before boarding a plane. I thought it was great, one of my favorite recent breweries. There were several food options that the whole family loved, and a plethora of beers. Whether or not you’re going to Great Basin, if you want a break from the Strip part of Vegas, this is cool spot.

Overall, Great Basin was a great trip, and Cathedral Gorge was a great addition. That said, I do not think I would put it in my top 10 National Parks. If you are looking for stunning scenery, breathtaking waterfalls and great trails with hidden wonders, this probably isn’t the park for you. That said, I do think that of Mammoth Cave, Wind Cave and Carlsbad Caverns, GBNP has my favorite cave system. If you are looking for seclusion, wide open spaces and a crystal clear night sky, then look no further.

Next up for the Traveling Igoes, we’re headed to Dallas for Thanksgiving to see Alyson’s family. We were able to get tickets to the Cowboys game, and I couldn’t be more excited. Whether you’re a Dallas fan or not, if you’re a football fa, Cowboys on Thanksgiving should be on your bucket list.

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Into the Badlands (RV Days 7 & 8)

After leaving North Dakota, we made the long trek south towards Badlands National Park. This was the longest drive of our journey, about five hours, and we legitimately tried to find something to do along the way. It turns out that between Theodore Roosevelt NP and Badlands NP, there isn’t anything to do. It is a very scenic drive, but we found nowhere to stop.

We spend about a day and a half in the Badlands area, which was definitely enough to see what we wanted to see. The park is expansive and has multiple units, and much of it is under the care of a Native American nation. The area is very visitor friendly, but it can take quite some time to get from one end to the other.

What We Did

Minuteman Missile National Historic Site: If you are in the area for more than half a day, it is worth it to stop at this NPS site. It memorializes the nuclear arms race that occurred during the Cold War. There is a lot of interesting history here, and you can actually visit a decommissioned nuclear launch silo. Especially if you are an NPS passport book holder, this site is worth your time.

Notch Trail: This is one of the most popular trails in the park, and when you get there, you’ll know why. It is at the same parking lot as the Door and Window trails, and it can get crowded. Take the path to the right for the Notch Trail, and about 10 minutes in, you’ll find a rope ladder ascending the topography. It can get backed up, which is a good reason to go early. The trail itself is about 1.5 miles out-and-back, and terminates with an expansive panorama. If you have time for only one trail in the Badlands, this should be it.

Castle, Medicine Root and Saddle Pass Trails: In terms of additional hiking, there are several trails that crisscross the Badlands, and you’ve got the option to choose your adventure. The Castle Trail moves east-west across the park but is a long way in one direction. Instead of hiking the entire route, we started at the Saddle Pass Trail Head.

This is less than half a mile, but you go straight up into the heart of the Badlands. It is more of a climb than a hike, but it is a lot of fun. At the top, you come to one of the intersections of the Castle Trail and Medicine Root Trail. If you combine these, you get a really nice loop.

We went counterclockwise along Medicine Root, which offered beautiful, expansive views. The way back along the Castle Trail takes you by the classic stony architecture of the Badlands. Combined, these three tails create about a 4.5-mile lollipop. It was a great way to see the park.

Sunset: One of the top things to do in the Badlands is to watch the sunset. In this park, it is not so much watching the sun drop below the hills that draws the crowds but watching the way the shadows envelop the stony outcroppings. The Pinnacles is one of the most popular spots, but evidently, gets quite crowded. At the suggestion of another blogger, we stopped at the Bigfoot Pass Overlook. We had it almost completely to ourselves, and the views were spectacular.

White River Visitors Center: This is the VC located in the southwest unit of the park. The drive to get there is scenic but time consuming. When we arrived, we found a trailer with two rangers who seemed annoyed to see us. Unless you are looking for a way to kill a few hours, this is probably not worth your time.

Where We Stayed

Badlands/White River KOA: While KOAs are not always the right choice, for us, on this trip, they were. This KOA is only a few miles from the south entrance to the main part of the park. It was nothing special, but the kids played on the playground and swam both nights, and the proprietors were quite friendly.

Where We Ate

Wagon Wheel: Aside from the RV itself, we had a great meal in a local bar in Interior, SD. This city has a population of only 91 but still has a fun bar and grill. When you go, get the beer and get the pizza. Everything else is frozen, but they make the pizza on-site. It might not be the best you have ever eaten, but it certainly hits the spot.

Wall Drugs: This was originally a drug store in the 1800s but has developed almost into a Buc-ee’s style venue. We got breakfast here, and a pair of socks, but could have gotten almost anything we wanted. There’s ice cream, shopping, a fudgery and multiple restaurants, all under the Wall umbrella. The food was good but the experience was superb.

This was the last stop on our 8 day RV trip. We made our way back the Rapid City and jumped on a flight back home. This was my second visit to the Badlands, and I am still quite awed. If all you have is one day, that’s probably enough. Unless you’re doing back country camping, three days is probably too much.

There is so much to do in South Dakota that it can be overwhelming, but if you are there, be sure to prioritize the Badlands; you won’t be disappointed.

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Teddy Roosevelt National Park (RV – Day 6)

We left Wyoming, cruised up through Montana and made our way to Theodore Roosevelt NP. This is amongst the country’s least visited parks, and this is really a shame. TRNP is nothing short of spectacular and should be on the list for any outdoor enthusiast.

The park consists of three separate units, North, South and Elkhorn Ranch. We visited both the North and South, but skipped the ranch. The ranch is where Teddy Roosevelt sought solitude after his mother and his wife both died on the same Valentine’s Day. From what I have been led to understand, this is really only worth visiting if you are a huge TR buff, so we skipped it.

What We Did

Horseback Riding: We got up early and headed for the Medora Stables. This is a nice outfit just outside of the South. We did a one hour tour up and down the hills and into the wilderness. It was a nice trip with good guides and good horses and was a nice intro to the park.

Caprock Coulee Trail: From here, we set off for the North unit, about an hour away, which is the more impressive of the two sections. The Caprock Coulee trail is a 4.4 mile loop, and I recommend going clockwise. The sights are spectacular. The terrain is very similar to the Badlands except with a lot more greenery. There is not much to do other than hike, but it is a great place to find wide open spaces.

South Unit Scenic Loop Drive: This is a fun excursion with lots of good places to stop and take pictures, but much of it was closed due to construction. The Visitors Center is worth stopping and getting your book stamped, but frankly, the place to be is the North Unit.

Little Missouri Saloon: This restaurant in Medora was fantastic. I got a bison burger, and Alyson and the kids got a bison pepperoni pizza. Every time I eat bison, I wonder why I tried it again, as it is extremely gamy, but when in Rome…The beer was good, the atmosphere is great and the balcony offers great views.

Where We Stayed

Boots Campground: This RV park is about 3 miles from the south entrance to the park. It has full hook-ups but does not have shower/bathroom facilities. I did not realize this when we booked (which was my fault) so we only stayed the one night and moved elsewhere the next night.

Red Trial Campgrounds: This park didn’t have extensive amenities but offered all the basics, including a comfort center. The wifi was good, and it was a lot better fit for our family.

We stayed at TRNP for two nights and one full day. This is probably all the time you’ll need unless you really want to see Roosevelt’s house. There is not a ton to do here, and it is not very built out, but I loved it.

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Spearfish, Deadwood and Devil’s Tower (RV Days 4 and 5)

After we left the Custer State Park region of the Black Hills, we headed Northwest towards Spearfish Canyon. This area is still part of the Black Hills but distinct from Custer. It is also the close to Deadwood and only about an hour from Devil’s Tower in Wyoming. If you’ve got the time, all three of these areas need to be visited.

What We Did

Bridal Veil Falls: This water fall is pretty, and is right off the road one takes to reach the other two falls in the Spearfish area. I recommend checking this one out first. There’s a nice overlook, but that’s about all that it is.

Roughlock Falls: We did this second of the three falls. You’ll need to park behind the lodge in the area, and then there is a pretty easy 2-mile out-and-back that leads to a beautiful green, rolling set of waterfalls. If you don’t feel like hiking, you can actually drive up to a parking lot at the top of the falls, but the hike is definitely worth it.

Spearfish Falls: This was my favorite of the three falls, and I think my favorite thing we did. You leave from the same parking lot and access the trail from behind a restaurant (where you are forbidden to park). The hike is less than a mile round trip and leads to a spectacular waterfall where we stayed and relaxed for at least half an hour.

Devil’s Bathtub: This is a very unique trail in the Spearfish area. There’s little total elevation gain, but it is a lot of ups and downs. You end up crossing the creek probably a dozen times, so you’ll definitely get wet. If you’ve got sturdy water shoes, that’s the way to go. Several times, we thought we’d reached the end but just keep going; you’ll know when you get there. Aside from a few dozen other people, there’s an obvious natural water slide, that whilst bumpy, was fun. Personally, this trail was a little too…popular for me, but Eileen claims it was her favorite part of the trip.

Deadwood: This historic western town has been commercialized with shows and casinos but shouldn’t be missed. We made it in time to see an old west shootout take place on Main St. and got to visit Charlie Utter’s. Especially if you enjoyed the HBO show, you’ll love the visit. We ate at the Buffalo Bodega, which is also a casino, but it had a lovely courtyard. The food was as expected, but we had a nice time. If you’ve ever been to Tombstone, Deadwood feels very similar, and if you’re in the area, don’t miss out.

Devil’s Tower National Monument: This unique formation is incredible inspiring. The views are you approach are amazing, and the opportunities for great pictures abound. That said, there’s not actually a lot to do there. If you plan ahead, you can actually climb portions of the monument, but I do not believe it is for novices. We took the trail that circumnavigates the tower, and it is pretty cool, but if all you have is time to get a look, that’s about all you need. We arrived at around 2 pm, and the line to get in took about 30 minutes. On our way out, at around 4, there was almost no line, so plan accordingly.

Where We Stayed

Spearfish KOA: This is a solid KOA. It’s nothing over-the-top like the Mount Rushmore KOA, but it was a fun place to stay. It had a nice store, a nice pool and solid wifi.

The Spearfish area was probably my favorite part of the trip. If you are in the Black Hills, there’s no doubt that you need to spend time in Custer but don’t hesitate to take a day and head towards Wyoming. There’s a lot to see here, and you won’t be disappointed.

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Death Valley (of Fire)

Those of you paying super close attention will note that this is actually two separate blog entries, one for Death Valley and one for Valley of Fire. We actually visited these over the same trip, as well as see Hoover Dam, the Lake Mead National Recreation Area and a Golden Knights games, but for the purposes of this blog, I think it is easier to separate the two Valleys into their own posts.

Over the Mardi Gras break this year, we decided to take the kids out west, again, to see one of the country’s lesser visited National Parks. Death Valley is a below-sea-level basin in constant drought that records summer heat extremes higher than anywhere else in North America.

It takes about two hours to get there from Vegas and is legitimately in the middle of nowhere. Our arrival time was well into the dark of night, which was actually pretty spectacular, as the star-scape is pretty unreal.

We did a lot of planning to figure out exactly how much time we needed, and we settled on basically two full days. I believe one full day could have been enough, and I believe we could have filled more time on a third day, but for us, 36-48 hours seemed like the sweet spot.

Where to Stay:

We stay at The Ranch is Death Valley, which is also associated with the Oasis. This is a great resort. We had a two room cabin that easily slept five and access to all sorts of amenities. The Ranch has a golf course, spring-fed pool that is warm year round, two restaurants, horseback riding, a general store, a museum, a playground, oh, and wifi.

The resort alone makes it worth it to stay a few days. That said, the restaurants are pretty expensive, and the food is more than pretty mediocre. I’d give the resort itself 5-stars with an addendum, giving the restaurants 2. That said, there aren’t a lot of alternatives in the area, so options are limited.

The Ranch is in the Furnace Creek area, which is more or less centrally located. There is another area, which is even more central, that one can stay, called Stovepipe Wells, but it is not nearly as quaint.

What to Do:

Horseback Ride: The Ranch offers several rides into the park, including sunrise and sunset. We did a sunrise tour and frankly, it was kind of a disappointment. The ride was fine, and the views were great, but I can’t say that it was really worth the effort.

Zabriski Point: This is a great introductory overlook into the vastness of Death Valley. It is an easy walk up from a parking lot and the views of the colored hills are pretty impressive.

Badwater Basin: This is the lowest point in North America and is why most people come. The drive takes about half an hour and is definitely worth it. You reach a basin that occasionally has an inch of water in it that you can walk out on; it gives the appearance of walking on water. At this stage in 2024, there was actually far more water than normal, due to Hurricane Sandy, so it actually wasn’t as impressive as we’d hoped. There were several areas though where we could walk out onto the salt flats, which is why we came.

Devils Golf Course: This is a really interested formation of rock and salt that would be an awful place to try to play golf. There is a road down that leads to a parking lot, but during our trip, the road was closed (it’s not clear why), so it was a 2 mile out-and-back to see anything of interest. I am not actually sure this is worth the walk, but the ‘golf course’ itself is pretty interested.

Gold Canyon Hike: The way we did this hike was from the Golden Canyon parking lot, and was about 4.5 miles. There are several intersecting trails that can make it far shorter or far longer, depending on what you want to do a see. The walk through the canyons and up the mountains is amazing, but strenuous. I recommend going clockwise, as you get the toughest section done in the first two miles and get to enjoy or more leisurely pace as you see the golden hills contrasted against the red and green rocks.

Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes: There is an unusual, almost out-of-place, set of sand dunes near the Stovepipe Wells area, which is about half an hour from furnace creek. It is a popular place to watch the sunset, but there are so many dunes that it is easy to find your own personal dune to watch the god-flame set.

Ubehebe Crater: The crater is a solid hour-plus drive from the main areas of the park, but it is worth it. One of the interesting things about this NP is the varying topography, and the fact that a giant volcanic crater is part of the mix is pretty cool. You can drive up to it and hike all the way around for some cool views. I am not sure the hike is necessary, but it is a lovely area.

Mosaic Canyon: This is another worthwhile hike, about 3 miles out and back. It is uphill on the way in, but the grade is not too severe. I recommend it, but if you are pressed for time, the best parts of the hike are in the first half to full mile, so if you don’t make it all the way until the end, you won’t be missing out on much.

What We Didn’t Do:

Dante’s View: Unfortunately, this part of the park was closed due to recent flooding, but I understanding the view to be pretty impressive. That said, it sounds very similar to Zabriski Point, so I am not too devastated at having missed it.

20 Mule Team Canyon: This is supposed to be a very scenic drive in an historic area, but again was closed, due to recent flooding.

Artist’s Drive/Palette: This being closed was a real disappointment. It is supposed to be the best place to view the varying colors of the rock formations, ideally about an hour prior to sunset. It was a good learning experience for the kids, that sometimes things happen that you can’t change, and there are plenty of other places to see rocks a shockingly unusual color, but not getting to see it did suck.

Racetrack Playa: This was actually open, but we made the conscious decision not to go. The turn-off for the Racetrack is at the Ubehebe Crater parking lot, but says that it requires a high-clearance, 4-wheel drive vehicle. I have heard that most SUVs can handle it, and I think ours could have, but you are an awfully long way from nothing, with no cell service, if something goes wrong. This is the area where you can see the rocks apparently move on their own. If we ever go back, I think we’ll try to get a better car, but for this time around, oh well.

What We Learned

It depends on what you want to do, but Death Valley can be done pretty well in just a day. That said, if we really dived into what the The Ranch has to offer, I think we could have stayed there for three or four. I would definitely recommend getting a car that can handle the Racetrack Playa drive, which can be rented in the Furnace Creek area if needed.

I do not think I will be putting DV in my top 10 National Parks, and frankly, it might actually be towards the bottom, but the family and I had a great time. It is definitely something every Parks fan should see and given the opportunity, I would definitely go again.

The second part of our trip took place in another valley (of Fire). Take a look at our next post for more information about this incredible State Park.

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Almost Heaven – Shenandoah

This year, for Fall Break, in addition to a short trip to Harpers Ferry and college tour for Eileen, they family and I spent basically 48 hours in Shenandoah National Park. If you’re asking whether or not this is adequate time, I think the answer is probably no. There were definitely things that we would’ve like to have done but couldn’t squeeze in

If you are wondering whether two days is enough time to get a good feel for the park and really enjoy it, then the answer is definitely yes.

Just 75 miles from the bustle of Washington, D.C., Shenandoah National Park is a land bursting with cascading waterfalls, spectacular vistas, fields of wildflowers, and quiet wooded hollows. With over 200,000 acres of protected lands that are haven to deer, songbirds, and black bear, there’s so much to explore. We started at the North end of the park, at the Dickey Ridge Visitors Center and made our way south along the Skyline Drive.

The park is basically bisected by this drive, with plenty of things to do along the way. It is also surrounded by multiple small towns that offer various other activities.

Hikes

Bearfence Loop Trail: This 1.4 mile loop is one of the most popular trails in the park, not without reason. The way up involves several strenuous rock scrambles. It was quite difficult with a 3 year old strapped in, but we made it. We did it later in the day, which gave us a great view of the sunset, but it can be, and was at the time, extremely windy. Most of the other people on the trail turned back and scrambled back down, but it is actually easier if you keep going. The decent along a portion of the Appalachian Trail is quite mild. Alltrails was very helpful in this respect, as I am not sure it was clear to all that this trail is actually a loop.

Dark Hollow Falls: This is another great trail, and 1.5 miles out-and-back. Again, very popular, the way down to the falls is quite steep, so be prepared for a tough trek back up. When you reach the end, the payoff is solid, but honestly, not great. If you are hoping for a massive cascade, I think you’ll be disappointed. In terms of falls, I would put this at a 5 or 6/10, but the trail is definitely worth taking.

Excursions

Luray Caverns: We actually stayed in Luray, which is about halfway down Skyline Drive. In Luray, there is really cool set of caves that you can tour at your leisure. I love a good cave, and this one does not disappoint. That said, I recommend getting to the caves right when they open. They are very popular, which can lead to traffic jams inside the caves themselves. This area is well-developed, with several other things to do, including a ropes course that all three of our kids enjoyed.

Rafting: We took a trip with the Shenandoah River Outfitters. It was self-guided but very well marked. It was a little cold to be on the water in the fall, but our portion of the river was mild to the point that we didn’t really get wet. This company offers multiple options with vary degrees of difficulty, and we chose what we did as it allowed our 3 year old to participate.

Ziplining: Our kids love a good zip, and we made a reservation with Bear Mountain Ziplines. The tour included 7 zips, and for those of you experienced, it is the type that involves hand-breaking. Of the zips we’ve done, I wouldn’t put this in the top 5, but everyone had a lot of fun.

Horseback Riding: We actually didn’t get to ride this trip, due to my daughter’s college tour, but there are a few outfitters that will take you into the park itself. One, Mountaintop Ranch, will even let you go tandem with a little one.

Lodging/Food

Luray: We stayed in a VRBO in Luray, which was about 20 minutes from one of the park entrances. I recommend this only if you are unable to get lodging in the park. The lodging within is quite limited, so this is a good back-up option, but if you are planning well in advance, you are much better off within the friendly confines.

Elkwallow Wayside: This shop does not offer any lodging options, but is a must-stop. It is along the Skyline Drive and a regular stop for those hiking the Appalachian Trail. We ate lunch here, smash burgers from the grill, and stocked up on a few supplies for the house. The food is good, and the ambiance is unbeatable.

Skyland: This is one of the two main lodges in the park, and it has a restaurant and tap room. Of the two, we preferred this lodge less. The tap room is really just an offshoot of the restaurant with the same menu, and our wait was about an hour. That said, it was a nice place to sit and watch the sunset, and the food was fine. If it had availability, I would have been happy to stay in the Skyland Lodge, but if both had availability, I would definitely prefer Big Meadows.

Big Meadows Wayside: Big Meadows is the further south lodge, and I believe a little smaller. It feels a lot more quint, and their tap room is completely separate. This is where we ate, and the food and atmosphere were terrific. This was one of my favorite nights in the park.

If you’re heading to Shenandoah NP, there is a enough to do to fill a week. If possible, plan ahead and try to stay inside the park. I think you’ll be much happier that you did.

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Hawai’i and The Pride of America

Our last day was spent in Honolulu, a place that I hope to never visit again. Our hotel, the Hilton Hawai’ian Garden was great, but it could have been anywhere. We did drive to the Northshore, which was pretty, but this was mostly throw away time.

I just want to leave our four loyal readers with a few afterthoughts based upon our trip in general. Given the opportunity, I would take this cruise again, and given the opportunity, I would visit Hawai’i again. That said, I do not think either are trips that I would plan myself. We all had great experiences, but it wasn’t amazing to the point that I am jonesing to go back.

If you are taking this boat specifically, I would recommend not spending the extra money on the upgraded dining experiences. The food was good, but not that much better than the free options. I would recommend upgrading to include the alcohol package. You have to drink a lot each day to make it worthwhile, but it was so much easier to not have to worry about how much we were spending. And, the package included gratuity.

If possible, I would recommend not staying on the 8th floor. There was nothing wrong with our rooms, but the view is obscured a bit by the emergency rafts. I would also recommend bringing magnetic hooks. The bathrooms have very few, but these hooks will stick to the door and make it a lot easier to dry your towels and swimming suits.

I think my single biggest take away would be to recommend skipping any of the included excursions, if at all possible. The much better option for us was renting a car at each port and creating the experiences for yourself. Every rental car pick-up spot was less than a 20 dollar cab ride from the port, and if there are several of you, this is a far more affordable option. We had much more fun driving around ourselves than we did on any of the planned trips.

If you’re on the fence about to see Hawai’i, this cruise is a great option. It certainly isn’t perfect, but there aren’t many better ways to get to all four islands. Everyone was very friendly, everything was very clean and everyone in our group had a great time.

Next up, we have a very brief break before heading up to Maine and Acadia.

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Maui Wowie – Days 3 and 4

We actually arrived early in Kahalui due to a minor medical emergency involving a member of the crew. It was nothing too serious, and this actually worked out in our best interest, as we were able to leave the boat early.

Rather than go to the buffet, the family and I sat down for a quick breakfast at the Cadillac Diner. If you are on this exact same boat, this is a great option, 24 hours/day. The menu is limited, but the food is good, comes out quickly, and it is rarely crowded.

Prior to embarking on this cruise, we did as much research as we could, and rather than pay $200/person for the Road to Hana excursion, we decided to rent a car ourselves and plunge into the journey. Most of the port stops were only a $20 cab ride to the nearest airport, and Kahalui was no exception. We picked up a rental car ourselves and set out upon one of the country’s most beautiful drives.

The road to Hana is over 40 miles but takes almost two hours one-way, due to how winding and narrow it is, often times going down to one lane. There are dozens of stops that one could make along the way, so you have to decide what are your priorities. For us, we decided to drive all the way to the end, past Hana, where you meet the Haleakala National Park. We did this first because this portion of the park has an amazing 4 mile out-and-back trail called Pipiwai, just adjacent to the Oheo Pools, two of the parks more incredible features.

This trail is mostly uphill on the way out, and more than a bit strenuous, but if you have the opportunity, it is a can’t-miss. After you pass through an eerie bamboo forest that feels alive, you’ll get an incredible view of a waterfall that reaches up to the sky. The Road to Hana is littered with waterfalls, but for me, the one at the end of the Pipiwai is number one.

As we started our way back down the Hana road, we stopped at the Hana Ranch Restaurant. Maui is very proud of their beef, and after two hours of hiking, this really hit the spot. It’s expensive, but the view alone is worth the price.

Our next stop on the way back to the boat was Waiʻānapanapa State Park, which features a unique lava tube and an amazing black sand beach. This was the highlight for the bigger kids. The black sand beach is a nice, protected little cove, but it features really large waves. Getting into the park requires a reservation ahead of time ($30), and sine we were certain of our timing, we actually booked two different slots. My favorite stop along Hana was definitely the hike, but for JR and Eileen, it was this beach.

We made two additional stops on the way back: Twin Falls and Ho’okipa Beach. Twin Falls is an impressive tiered waterfall that offers a great place to cliff dive. Ho’okipa is a red sand beach that was littered with snoozing sea turtles. Both, to me, are must-sees, and both were spots that the whole family enjoyed.

All said, the Road to Hana was one of our favorite parts of the trip. The drive alone through the amazing foliage is worthwhile and there are countless places to stop. The four we made were right up our alley, but if we went back and did it again, I feel like we could fill the ride with a completely different set of sights.

The day had been a long one, so we returned the car, ate at the Alamo Cafe (the buffet on the Pride of America) and went to be in preparation for Day 4.

The next day brought a return trip to the Haleakala National Park, provided by Norwegian Cruise Lines. We boarded a bus with about 20 other people at 8 am and started up the mountain. Our tour guide was nice and well-intentioned, but was a bit too much for me. I am a less-is-more type of person, and prefer to let the majesty of the sights speak for themselves.

Tours like this only hit the broadest highlights of big parks like Haleakala, which is unfortunate, but the payoff at the top was amazing. The view into the crater, looking at several smaller, collapsed craters, is surreal, and as the wind howls and whips everything around, it feels like you are standing on another planet. Regardless of how you get there, getting to the top of the crater is a must.

The rest of that day was spent tooling around the boat, swimming, eating, etc., as the boat prepared for a 6 pm departure for the Big Island and the city of Hilo.

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It’s Pronounced Missouri, not Misery

This year has been filled with a lot of traveling for the Igoes, and our next big plan was (and is) Hawaii, but in the meantime, we decided to sneak in a quick Memorial Day jaunt. None of the Igoes, save yours truly, has ever visited the great state of Kansas, so we tried to come up with a reason to go.

Those who follow closely are aware that my parents live in St. Louis, which is only a four hour drive from Kansas City. You are probably also aware of our proclivity to attend baseball games. What you may not be aware of is that in addition to the Cardinals and Blues, St. Louis has a new Major League Soccer team, St. Louis City SC.

After very little thought, we bought tickets to St. Louis and home from Kansas City, along with tickets to the City game and Royals game. We woke up early on Saturday morning, hopped on a plane and made our way to St. Louis.

The City SC game was that night, so we had about 8 hours to kill prior to kickoff. One of the landmarks of St. Louis is Union Station. Originally an actual train depot, it has gone through many evolutions, but it seems that the current iteration might actually stick.

The old station now has multiple restaurants, mini-golf, a London Eye-style wheel, ropes course, mirror maze and interactive aquarium, amongst other things. We had done a bit in the past, so this time we decided to ride the wheel and play mini-golf. The wheel is pretty cool, and seats up to 8, but the grand view is primarily of nothing. It is fun, and only about 15 minutes, but it doesn’t compare to looking out over the city of London. The mini-golf was also nothing special, but was a fine, albeit expensive, way to spend the morning.

We got the timing just right, and headed down to our favorite area to get lunch in St. Louis, The Hill. This is an old Italian neighborhood with a restaurant on almost every corner. It is great for dinner, but the Italian lunch sandwiches are one of my favorite things about St. Louis.

This go around, we ate at Adriana’s, which was packed. It was my first time there, and while I don’t think it is my favorite spot on The Hill, I would gladly go back five days in a row and enjoy five different sandwiches.

We hung around my parents’ house for a few hours whilst the baby napped, went to Saturday afternoon church at my high school, and headed downtown. If you are going to an SC game, I definitely suggest getting there early. The game didn’t start until 7:30 but the festivities kicked off at 4 pm, which made parking quite difficult.

It probably took us 20 minutes to find a spot, and it was still a solid 15 minute walk to the field. Next time, we would go on ezpass.com and reserve parking ahead of time. The field, City Park, was amazing. It was at capacity, as usual for this inaugural season; a solid 22,000 people.

It doesn’t hurt that the team is brand new and in first place, and the city of St. Louis has gone crazy for them. I say this having attended multiple sporting events, playoff games, championships; this soccer game was the most vibrant environment in which I have seen a game. The entire congregation was on their feet, singing and screaming, for 90 minutes. Again, I am sure it helped that City won the game, but the atmosphere was insane. That said, the prices were also insane, so come prepared, but if you have a chance to catch a game in a place like City Park, I suggest you take it.

The next morning, we left the house before 8 am and headed for Kansas City. It is about a 4 hour drive, and just outside the city itself is Independence, Missouri, home to President Harry Truman. We stopped at the Harry S Truman National Historic Site, which includes a Visitors Center with a nice video and his house, which you can tour. We didn’t actually do the tour, but the video is interesting, and we got another stamp for the kids’ passport books.

The Royals’ game was a 1:10 pm start, so we ate lunch at Kauffman Stadium. If you have never been, Kauffman is pretty cool. Unlike a lot of newer stadiums, Kauffman is outside of the main urban area, but is done really well. It has a lot of amenities, and everyone was quite friendly. We actually got see the Royals hit a walk-off, which was cool, and that puts me up to 11 home stadiums.

Before we ended the day with dinner, we raced over to the Negro Leagues Baseball Museum, which may well be the best thing in Kansas City. It is small but packed with great features and information, and fantastic video narrated by James Earl Jones. In terms of a can’t-miss experience, this is at the top of the list.

That night, we ate at the Beer Kitchen, which is exactly what it sounds like, a restaurant with beers. It was quite delicious, kid-friendly and had a great atmosphere.

Now at this point, it might have crossed your mind that as of yet, we still had not actually visited the state of Kansas, as the majority of the experiences in KC reside on the Missouri side. So the morning of Memorial Day, we woke up, crossed the river and drove to Fritz’s Railroad Restaurant. This is a cute little diner with a solid breakfast that is actually delivered by toy trains. It is nothing out of the ordinary, but if you happen to be in the state of Kansas, it is a place to eat.

Our flight home wasn’t until the early afternoon, and we struggled to find something to do with the rest of our day. Kansas City has several waterfalls, but most are not super impressive during this time of year. There is a lot of cool stuff to do in Kansas, but most of it was too far from where we were. We ended up settling upon the St. Rose Phillipine Duchesne Memorial Park and Shrine.

If you are not Catholic, and even then, are not well-acquainted with the Sacred Heart community, this is probably not a good use of your time. That said, my daughters both go to a Sacred Heart institution, and my wife teaches there, so for some of us, this was pretty interesting.

On our way back to Kansas City for our flight home, we stopped at Betty Rae’s Ice Cream, which is just a classic, great place to get a frozen treat. We made it home that day without any difficulty, capping off a great Memorial Day trip.

It was nice for the kids and my wife to cross Kansas off the list, and it was nice to get out of New Orleans for a bit. Next up, the big trip to number five-O, Hawaii.

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I Call It ‘Johio’

We decided to follow a similar script as last year for Easter and center our journey around seeing a baseball game. The Cardinals were playing in Milwaukee, and having already visited that unimpressive stadium, we decided to look elsewhere. I was hoping that both the Red Sox and Yankees had home series, but that also was not meant to be.

So where did that leave us? Cleveland…

Cleveland, you say? According to Mark Twain, America has only three great cities: New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.

While it is hard to disagree with America’s greatest novelist, there are actually reasons to visit Ohio’s second largest metropolis, which I shall proceed to detail below.

As in recent years, our eldest ditched us for a Spring Break in Seaside, where one of her drunk friends proceeded to haver at for evidently no reason. My hope is that this experience will lead her to joining us again next year, but we shall see.

So the remaining four us set off for Cleveland on Satuday morning, and arrived just after noon. We were hoping to try Slyman’s Deli, but it is closed on the weekends. Instead, we settled for a wonderful Michael Simon BBQ restaurant called Mabel’s. It’s in a really interesting, revitalized area of downtown, and the food is excellent. At the waitress’s suggestion, we just ordered one large plate of meats and two sides, which was more than enough for our family to share. As far as I can recall, this was my first time eating at the restaurant of an Iron Chef.

In the early afternoon, we drove up to Lake Eerie, the third Great Lake I have seen, and spent about two hours at arguably Cleveland’s most iconic attraction, the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. Located by the football stadium on the shores of the lake, this is an impressive building slightly reminiscent of the Louvre.

We purchased tickets ahead of time, and made our way down to the first of six floors. Every leve has its own experiences, from exhibits specific to The Beatles and The Who to the Wall of Plaques to a Pink Floyd’s The Wall theater to a live band karaoke experience.

JR and I agreed that our favorite part was the Hall of Plaques that featured every band or individual inducted, starting in 1986. It actually came as a surprise to both of us that the first class was so recent, but it was very cool to see. My son was disappointed at the lack of Fall Out Boy representation (a feeling I shared in reference to the Gin Blossoms), but eligibility begins 25 years after an artists initial commercial release, so Pete still has a few years to go.

After checking into our hotel, we headed out to Progressive Stadium to watch the Guardians eventually lose to the Brewers. This was the 10th home stadium in which I have seen a game, and I have really enjoyed expanding my baseball horizons. That said, from the outside, the Guardian’s stadium is one of the most unimpressive and downright ugly ballparks I have ever seen.

Fortunately, this was just a poor first impression, because from the inside, the open air complex is quite lovely, a fine place to catch a game. If you are going to see an outdoor game in early April, please prepare appropriately. We all had several lays, including doubled up socks, and hand warmers to get us through 2 and half hours of 40 degree baseball. We were all very thankful for the next accelerated pace of play, as it got us in and out much more efficiently than in years past.

We woke early the next morning for a hotel room Easter celebration and drove over to the Cathedral of St. John the Evangelist for an 8 am service. This building is everything you’d want from a grand cathedral: beautiful high vaulted ceilings, multiple side chapels and wonderful artwork throughout. Some of our past Easter experiences in terms of the service itself have been mediocre, but that was not the case this Sunday. The priest did a fine job of letting the gravity of the day speak for itself instead of adding a whole bunch of unneeded nonsense during the homily.

After finishing up just under an hour, we headed over to Betts for an Easter brunch. Betts is nothing too fancy, or too expensive, but it offers a round menu, and the food was excellent. It was exactly what was needed prior to beginning the second leg of our Ohio trip which would take us into Cuyahoga Valley National Park.

CVNP is perhaps the most uniquely positioned National Park of the current 63. The Arch is directly in the middle of downtown St. Louis, Hot Springs is basically a city in-and-of itself, Saguaro encircles Tucson, but Cuyahoga is by far the most suburban national park that we have visited.

The borders meander, and you’ll find that some of the most interesting sites in the park are within a hundred yards of an interstate or a Pure Barre. If you love the secluded, lost wilderness of the big parks out West, you might not enjoy Cuyahoga, but it is super-accessible and offers some breathtaking experiences, even if you’re only a short walk from the nearest fro-yo stand.

The park is a refuge for native plants and wildlife, and winds along the Cuyahoga River, giving way to deep forests, rolling hills and open farmlands. Our first stop was at the Boston Mills Visitors center to get the lay of the land and get our passport book stamped. At this stage, we were heading into the early afternoon, so our plan was to do just one solid hike before getting dinner.

The first trek we endeavored was the Brandywine Falls Trail, one of the most popular trails in the park. On a beautiful Sunday afternoon, the paths were unsurprisingly crowded, but there are a few notes to help amplify your experience. For one, you don’t actually have to do the hike to see the falls. The falls are located at the end of the loop, which basically starts and ends in the parking lot. If you are not much a hiker, this is a great park, as there are many attractions that can basically be driven to without having to endure the cheap showiness of nature

However, we decided to trek the 1.5 mile trail, which was quite lovely and not particularly strenuous. If you also make this decision, I highly recommend taking the trail in the clockwise direction. This way, you finish with the boardwalks that lead to this amazing waterfall, instead of seeing the payout at the beginning.

The fall itself is quite wonderful, albeit right next to the road, and the system of boardwalks set up around it offer visitors the chance to see the falls from multiple different angles. I think for most folk, if you were just going to do one thing in Cuyahoga, Brandywine Falls would be it.

Before dinner, we had about two hours to kill, so we made use of some of the other sights in Cuyahoga that are not far off the road. The first of which was the Everett Covered Bridge. The area is calm and quiet, and the old fashioned covered bridge is certainly quite quaint.

Another great feature of Cuyahoga, which can include a long walk or a short one from a nearby parking lot, is Deer Lick Cave. This is really more of an overhang than a legit cave, but it is a very impressive feature of this park. We didn’t do the actual hike, but the short version leads to a creek with several small cascades and multiple small alcoves that the kids can explore. It was a great way to end our day in the park.

We struggled that evening finding a place to eat, as most of the restaurants we had researched were closed for Easter. We settled on the Ohio Brewing Company and were not disappointed. Very family friendly, this brew pub offers your standard brewery foods: pretzels, burgers, chicken sandwiches, etc. The food was solid, and the beers were excellent, good enough to bring a couple back to the hotel with us.

That night, we stayed in a Holiday Inn Express in the city of Richfield, one of the suburbs that borders CVNP. The hotel was fine, and there are limited lodging accommodations in the park itself. There is the Brandywine Inn, which looks nice but inexplicably won’t allow visitors under 5 years of age, and the Stanford House, which would have required us to book the entire 9 bedroom building, a bit more than we needed. There are plenty of nearby hotels, and while they don’t offer the experience of actually staying the park, they get the job done.

Our flight home on Monday wasn’t until the evening, and park is less than half an hour from the airport, so we attempted to see as much of the rest of the park as possible. There is a train that can take one throughout the Cuyahoga Valley area, but it was out of service during our stay, so we stuck with the rental car.

Our second day in the park started out back at the Boston Mills Visitors Center, a location which also includes the Blue Hen Falls trail head. This trail is about a 3 mile out and back, relatively strenuous hike. It starts with an arduous ascent up several stairs leading away from the Visitors Center, and included three separate up and downs.

It is a challenging hike, and is often in very close proximity to several main roads, but the payoff is absolutely worth it. As you approach the falls, the traffic noises fade away, and you will find yourself encountering one of the parks wonderfully secluded gems. We started this trek early, so had the run of the falls.

There is a scenic overlook, but if you are adventuresome (and willing to stray a bit off the trail), you can get right to mouth of the falls. This was my favorite part of the trip, and I think JR and Clara spent about half an hour hanging around on the cataract, trying to skip rocks.

We had one more hike that we wanted to attempt, and decided to take only a short break between the two. There was one other brewery that we hoped to sample, and figured that if we knocked out both hikes before 2 pm, we could grab a beer with a late lunch.

The Ledges is the last of the major attractions in Cuyahoga, and is definitely one that you won’t want to miss. This is basically a 2.5 mile lollipop loop from a centrally located parking lot. I strongly recommend taking the loop clockwise as, again, this leaves the most impressive parts of the trail for the end.

The Ledges is a series of interconnecting trails that take hikers up and around a plateau and series of, well, ledges that are quite impressive. Whilst on this trail, be sure that you take the path that goes around the outside of the stone features, called the Octagon. If you stay on top of the plateau, you miss out on a lot of the most interesting features, and have to be below the ledges at the end to experience the Ice Box.

Our last stop in Ohio, aside from the airport, was a brew pub in Peninsula, OH, call the Winking Lizard. This is a cute little brewery in a cute little town that has solid food, good beer and a great atmosphere. It was really a nice way to put an end to our trip.

We really enjoyed Cuyahoga Valley and the Cleveland area. We were in Ohio for less than 72 hours, and this felt like the appropriate amount of time. If we wanted to spend more time in the National Park, it is possible to rent kayaks or horses, but we couldn’t find any guided tours. Given the amount of time we had, I feel like we really maximized our experience.

The Igoes don’t have anything on tap for May, except perhaps visiting a few friends in Fairhope over Memorial Day. The next big ticket on our docket is a late June cruise with Alyson’s family in Hawaii. Stayed tuned as we look to knock out two more National Parks and my fiftieth state.