Tag: nevada

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Great Basin, Great Vacation

This year for Fall Break, we decided to head back to Nevada (our third time this year) to explore one of the country’s lesser visited National Parks, Great Basin. The park is over four hours from Vegas and three hours from Salt Lake. Flights being what they were, we flew into LAS, rented a car and headed north.

Aside from the travel arrangements, another reason we flew into Las Vegas was that Cathedral Gorge State Park is on the drive up. In the west, one must keep in mind that there are a plethora of state parks, some as impressive as their National Park neighbors.

What We Did

Cathedral Gorge State Park: we drove up Friday night and hit the park the next morning. We only spent about four hours there, which was enough, and it was a great four hours.

The Juniper Draw Loop is just over 3 miles and is one of the most popular trails in the park. If you plan to do the whole thing, I recommend going clockwise, as this saves all the best parts for the end.

If you are not wanting to do the whole hike, you can go clockwise and just go up to Miller Point, which is a steep climb offering great views of the park. You can also drive straight to the overlook, if you are not interested in the walk.

I also recommend, on this end of the loop, Cathedral Caves. While the ‘caves’ in Cathedral Gorge are actually slot canyons, they are really cool, and our kids loved climbing through them.

If you liked the Cathedral Caves, I strongly recommend the Moon Caves. This is a slightly different area with equally impressive slot canyons. There were a few areas that only my kids could fit into, which they found really exciting (and Alyson and I found really nerve wracking). Both Eileen and JR said this was their favorite part of our entire trip.

Great Basin National Park

Visitors Center: Great Basin has two VCs, Lehman and GB, and I recommend visiting both. The Lehman VC has an attached cafe with a much better gift shop attached.

Astronomy Program: Great Basin is a certified dark sky park, so people flock from all around to check out the star. We went to a ranger led program that was great. The skies were amazing, and one of the telescopes showed Saturn clear to the point that the rings were actually visible through the lens. It is a later night, and it was hard for our four year-old to sit through, but it was worth it.

Wheeler Scenic Drive: This drive up the mountain takes you past several great overlooks, including one of Nevada’s only glacier, and goes by most of the trails you will want to hike. It is also a good way to see all the changing leaves if you are there at the right time.

Alpine Lakes Loop: This 3-ish mile loop is at the termination of Wheel Drive and is one of the park’s most popular. We went counterclockwise, but I didn’t really see a lot of advantages to one way or the other. Frankly, I wasn’t as impressed with this hike as I had hoped. It goes by two alpine lakes, but at this time of year, my daughter suggested they were more like alpine ponds. It was a good trek but not particularly mind blowing.

If you don’t have young kids and/or are feeling like you need more, the Bristlecone Pine and Glacier Trails branch of the loop, but they add a lot of extra mileage.

Lehman Caves: This was my favorite part of our trip. We took a guided, 60 minute tour that revealed all sorts of great features in this living cave. I love a good cave, and this might be my favorite that we’ve toured in a National Park.

Strawberry Creek Road: To access this, you have to leave the park and drive north, then follow a dirt road back in. We were the only people for miles, which was pretty fantastic. At the end of the road, we did a 1-mile loop that goes along Strawberry Creek. This was a nice trail, but again, not all that amazing, except that we saw a family of deer, including a 10-point buck, which made it all worthwhile.

Where We Stayed

Swallow Cove B&B: There aren’t a lot of options to stay near Cathedral Gorge, which is why this place was such a pleasant surprise. We had a great room with plenty of space for five, and homemade breakfast in the morning. One of the best amenities was the key-less entry. We arrive late, so the host simply texted us the instructions. We had a completely contact-free check-in and check-out.

Hidden Canyon Retreat: This place is fantastic. There are also few lodging options for Great Basin, and this one is actually the further of the two. That said, it appeared to be the far better choice. The approach is a 6-mile dirt road, but once you’ve done it once, it is far less daunting. The room was great with a fully functioning kitchen. We bought supplies and cooked dinner both nights in our room. There’s a heated pool, a hot tub, several grills, a convenience store and several friendly animals (including a 5-point buck). Recently, our best experiences have been the ones where we really liked our lodging, and Hidden Canyon did not disappoint.

Where We Ate

Historic Silver Cafe: On the way out of Cathedral Gorge, we stopped at the Silver Cafe, the older cafe in Nevada. The food was decent, and they were showing college football, so it was a good experience. If there were other options, and it wasn’t historic, I am not sure we would’ve stopped, but there was nothing significant about which to complain.

Sugar, Salt & Malt: We ate here for lunch on Saturday, and it was solid. We all got sandwiches that hit the spot, and everyone was very friendly. The dinner menu looked interesting, but due to staffing issues, they were only open for lunch during our stay. There was also a note about the owners selling the establishment, but it was not clear whether that is a recent development or has already happened. Whether or not it is there when you go, I can’t say for sure. There are not a lot of options for food in Great Basin, so do your research and plan ahead.

Able Baker Brewing: This brewery is actually in Vegas, and is where we stopped for lunch on Monday before boarding a plane. I thought it was great, one of my favorite recent breweries. There were several food options that the whole family loved, and a plethora of beers. Whether or not you’re going to Great Basin, if you want a break from the Strip part of Vegas, this is cool spot.

Overall, Great Basin was a great trip, and Cathedral Gorge was a great addition. That said, I do not think I would put it in my top 10 National Parks. If you are looking for stunning scenery, breathtaking waterfalls and great trails with hidden wonders, this probably isn’t the park for you. That said, I do think that of Mammoth Cave, Wind Cave and Carlsbad Caverns, GBNP has my favorite cave system. If you are looking for seclusion, wide open spaces and a crystal clear night sky, then look no further.

Next up for the Traveling Igoes, we’re headed to Dallas for Thanksgiving to see Alyson’s family. We were able to get tickets to the Cowboys game, and I couldn’t be more excited. Whether you’re a Dallas fan or not, if you’re a football fa, Cowboys on Thanksgiving should be on your bucket list.

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Summertime in Tahoe

This July, we met my parents and three brother on the Nevada side of Lake Tahoe, in Stateline, for a week. We stayed in a VRBO on top of a mountain near the Heavenly Ski Resort. It was sold as a ski-in, ski-out, so it is primarily for winter use, but it made for a great summer home. It was basically two different three story units attached to one another, which worked well for our group of fourteen.

Lake Tahoe is quite expansive, so you have to plan what you do, what to see and where to eat based upon how much time you are willing to spend in the car. Getting up and down our mountain took a solid fifteen minutes, so that included, everything we did was at least half an hour away, so we really had to make the most of our time.

Hikes

Cascade Falls: I believe this was my favorite trail that we took on our trip. It is 1.3 miles out-and-back and does include some strenuous uphills and some scrambling. The effort is completely worth it. At the top, you find dozens of small cascades that you can play around in before they become a large waterfall. Not only do you get a great view of Lake Tahoe, but there is another, more secluded lake which is spectacular. Parking can be difficult, but going either early or later in the day can help.

Cave Rock: This is a short, popular hike with extremely limited parking. The initial approach is simple, but the end is a relatively vertical climb. This trail is most popular at sunset, so gets very crowded, but if you are willing to get there early, you can dangle your feet over the lake and watch the sun drop below the mountains.

Horsetail Falls: This is a great hike, but a good distance from where we were staying. It is hard time find exactly where this trail starts, but look for the Pyramid Peak parking lot. When you start up, I strongly suggest using AllTrails, because while the trail is marked, it is over a lot of stones, so it is not always clear where the pathway is. The best thing to do is follow the falls up, where you can find several small pools to swim in. Getting all the way to falls is difficult, and something we did not accomplish, but you get cool views of it all the way up.

Eagle Falls and Eagle Lake: This trail was by far the most difficult to park at. It is on the other side of the road from Emerald Bay, and there are multiple smaller lots, but we had to circle a lot to get a spot around 9:30 am. The hike up is two part, the first going along to Upper Eagle Falls, the second reaching an amazing mountain like. You should definitely go all the way. The trail was too difficult for my parents, but we made it with just a little difficulty.

Excurions

Clear Kayak Lake Tour: Tahoe Paddle Sports offers a really fun tour of Tahoe on the Nevada side. The clear kayaks are great and our guide was fantastic. It is not a super exhilarating, high-energy tour, but it was very relaxing and a nice way to see parts of the lake.

Rafting the American River: This was done through a friend of my brothers but is definitely something you should look into. It took us over an hour to reach the initial launch spot, but it was worth it. We basically did two tours. The older, more adventurous of us started at the top and took on some class 3+ rapids. We met the kids and grandparents halfway down, who joined us for a leisurely float for the rest of the day.

Boat Rental: Out of the Ski Run Marina, we rented two speed boats and a tube, each able to hold seven people. It was a lot of fun tossing the kids around on the tube and exploring the lake. It was also a good way to see Emerald Bay and get a close up look Fannette Island and the Tea House.

Beaches

Emerald Bay: Getting down to the Emerald Bay beach includes a solid 1 mile hike, once you’ve won the battle for parking. The hike is downhill, so super easy on the way down, not so much on the way up. The Vikingsholm House is at the bottom, so that is fun to see, and there are several vendors who rent things like kayaks and SUPs. If you’ve got the stamina for it, this trip is worth the walk.

Round Hill Pines: This is the beach where we spent a solid four or five hours. It doesn’t get nearly as crowded as some of the other options, but it just as impressive. The beach is gritty, but that is normal in the area, and there’s a restaurant and bar. We were also able to rent chairs, an umbrella and two jet skis for an hour.

Where We Ate

South of North Brewing Co: This brewery has decent food and decent beer and absolutely no parking. Our main reason for going was a Wednesday night trivia, which we won.

Artemis Lakefront Cafe: This Mediterranean restaurant is right on the water and kind of expensive. That said, the food was good, the view was great, and it was very convenient.

Riva Grill on the Lake: Riva is in the same Ski Run marina as Artemis. I prefer the former. Riva does have a great view, and the food was fine, but way over-priced with mediocre service.

Base Camp Pizza: This is a cool pizza place in the most popular part of town. It was good, but our favorite part was the large number of great appetizers they offered.

If you’ve never been to a ski town in the summer, you ought to consider it. We went to Breckinridge a few years ago and felt the same way. There is a lot to do and usually all sorts of great hikes. I usually try to offer advice at the end of our posts, things that I would do differently, but I really don’t have much to say. It wasn’t my favorite vacation ever, but it really was a lot of fun.

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(Death) Valley of Fire

For those of you that are reading regularly, and I know there are a lot, you are aware that during Mardi Gras in 2024, we visited both Death Valley National Park and Valley of Fire State Park (as well as the Hoover Dam, Lake Mead NRA and Vegas). For purposes of this blog, it made more sense to split the two valleys up, so this post is about our 24 hours or so in the Valley of Fire.

This state park is about an hour northeast of Vegas in Nevada and easily rivals most National Parks. In terms of breadth and scope, Death Valley is definitely more impressive, but in terms of what we actually did, I think the family preferred the Valley of Fire.

This geological wonderland contains petroglyphs, a wave, a slot canyon, petrified wood and so much more. It’s busy and parking can be limited, but it’s an easy trek from Vegas and great way to add an outdoors experience to your trip.

Where to Stay

We stayed on Overton, NV, which is right outside the park, at the North Shore Inn. The Inn is nothing special, but our rooms were clean, and the people are nice. This area is not very well developed, so there are not a lot of places to eat. We ate at a Mexican restaurant called La Fonda and a pizza place called Pirate’s Landing. Neither blew our minds, but when you’ve spent all day hiking and/or driving, a clean place to sit with nice people is all that’s really needed.

What to Do

Elephant Rock: This is one of the first attractions you’ll come across when you enter from the East entrance. There’s a parking lot and a short hike, although you don’t actually have to do the hike, as the Elephant is right along the street. That said, you are not actually allowed to climb the elephant, but if your kids are into bouldering, there are some great opportunities along this short trek.

Rainbow Vista: This trail is a 1 mile out-and-back and ends at a beautiful over look of the red rocks contrasted against the green mountains. It’s relatively easy and is a good introduction to the park.

Seven Wonders Trail: This loop is about two miles and is one of the most popular in the park. About halfway in, you’ll reach the Fire Wave, which is similar to the Wave you’ve likely seen on InstaFace, just to a smaller extent. Without the wave, which is about a mile in, the hike would still be worth it, as the entire expanse is quite impressive. I recommend going clockwise, as you’ll go down the steeper part and walk back up far more gradually.

White Domes Trail: This 1.2-mile loop is at the end of the park and is also quite popular. It takes you through a short slot canyon. It is nowhere near as impressive as something like Antelope Canyon, but for the short time that you’re in it, it is very cool.

Atlatl Rock: This rock is cool in that a staircase has been built into it so you can walk up and see the petroglyphs. I am not one who finds petroglyphs super impressive; if you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all. Frankly, it is hard for me to distinguish between protected art and graffiti, but the rock itself is pretty cool, and in order to fill a day, you’ll need to include this. You can also stop at the beehive rocks in your way out of this area.

Fire Canyon: This is more of a drive than a hike, but it offers a really unique view of the Valley from just outside of the parking lot. Following the advice of one of the park rangers, this is where watched the sunset, and it was quite lovely.

What We Learned

We loved this park, and in a lot of way, it’s more impressive than several of the National Parks which we have visited. That is something to keep in mind, especially when headed to the Southwest. There are a lot of great things you can find without much difficulty of you take the time to look around. One full day is certainly enough to hit all the important parts of this park.

Next up, JR and I are headed to Jacksonville for his first concert (Fall Out Boy). We probably won’t post about, but you never know…